Did I burn out my Accel coils or something else.

[Anonymous]

I just went through the box of parts the guy gave me with the bike, (he kept all the old parts)

The old stator looks like it was put in the toaster. There are 4 R/Rs in there and a set of coils. The old coils read 4.3 on primary but no reading on one and only 2.3 on the the other's secondary.

I'll get a set of coils.

I guess battery chargers are a no no with these bikes? Since they always seem to have charging/starting problems, how do you jump start them when you are working on them and you don't want to wait to trickle charge?

[Billy Ricks]

I've never had any problem using a battery charger at 4 or 5 amps for an hour or two. Never had any trouble jump starting off of a car either.

[Anonymous]

So what happened to my coils, and why did the fuse block get so hot?

[Billy Ricks]

Probably a bad R/R to start with.

[Anonymous]

Hmm the R/R will burn the coils? So I should get new coils and a new R/R before running the new coils right?

If my R/R was good then it would have regulated the 16 volts coming in from the battery charger???

[Billy Ricks]

Check the R/R using the test I posted earlier. A bad R/R can boil a battery dry so check it too. Too much voltage can burn out all kinds of stuff. On a 500 mile trip once my bike boiled the battery dry, which in turn shorted and took out just about every bulb and the tach with it. R/R was putting out something just over 16 volts at the time. Replaced the one I had replaced early in the bike's life with the one that came on the bike new. It tested okay and the voltage dropped to normal levels.

[Anonymous]

Ok, thank you for all your quick replies.

The R/R is still on the bike, but I took one of the old ones inside to see if the test worked. I went through the first string of tests and all the reading were approximately 2.5 but under the 6.something number you posted, so I guess that one is bad.

I'll pull the one that's currently on the bike off tomorrow and test it.

[Anonymous]

Ok

Just ordered an Electrex R/R

and I'm trying to find some coils.

I'll solder all connections, clean fuse block and other connections, test the coils when I receive them, install the R/R and coils at the same time, test the voltage, make sure the battery is good and charged, then test the voltage while running and then test the AC output on the stator.

Sound like a good plan?

[Anonymous]

does it matter what size (cc) Katana or GSXR? What about GS 550 or other GS models?

[Billy Ricks]

Any size GSXR, Katana, or Bandit will do. Just stay away from the last few years of GSXR's. They have individual coils on each plug. Don't waste time and money on GS coils. Go for something newer.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all your time. I got a set of GS 1150 coils from a board member for $25. I figure I'll use these while trouble shooting my elect. problem then when I get everything straightenened out I'll get a set of Dynas.

[Anonymous]

Well I got another set of coils and I still have absolutely no spark. What do I do now?

[Anonymous]

on our coils if you get the feed lines reversed then it can show either no spark or wrong spark. ive run into this when replacing the plug wires.

[Anonymous]

which ones are you calling the feed lines, the ignition side of the coils or the high voltage plug wires?? I assume you mean the ones feeding from the ignition right?

I have a Dyna ignition. There is a red, white and black wire coming out of that.

The red goes to the orange hot wire under the seat, then it goes to a Y to the positive side on each coil. The black and white go to the other side of each coil.

I put a test light on it and I have hot to the orange terminals on each coil, and the black terminal is showing hot on the negative side. The white is not hot.

[Anonymous]

Why are the Suzuki coils labelled positive and negative on the ignition side but the Accel coils are not labelled at all?