need clarification on charging sys troubleshooting flowchart

[Anonymous]

OK, so my 82 1100E has a charging problem. Not surprising. I've gone through the Stator Papers troubleshooting chart up to Part C. In part C
(RR testing) they say to use the diode test setting on my multimeter. That would be in the resistance area, correct? But the flowchart gives results in volts. What gives?

Help! Where am I losing it?

Michael

[SqDancerLynn1]

If the stator has passed the tests, you have checked the wiring ------- Just replace the regulator/rect, The only sure way to test is to see if it charges on a running bike

[Anonymous]

diode testing

On good digital multi-meters, there is a specific setting for diode testing. It definitely is not the resistance test area of the meter. Beg, borrow or buy a good one.

[Anonymous]

I believe it does charge, but weakly. Only 12.4V at 2500 rpm. Should be higher, right? More like 13.5? 5000 rpm is still only 12.something.

It certainly is good news that my stator is OK, but I would like to know the cause of the weakness so I can fix it. And if the RR is partly bad, I want to replace it before it goes all the way and blows the heck out of my stator.

Michael

[Anonymous]

Re: diode testing

On good digital multi-meters, there is a specific setting for diode testing. It definitely is not the resistance test area of the meter. Beg, borrow or buy a good one.

In the above image, the diode tester is in the resistance section, no?

Perhaps someone can explain to me how it is that we are looking for a voltage reading.

Michael

[Anonymous]

Me thinks the voltage reading that is discussed is for those who dont have the special tester and only have the basic voltmeter.

[SqDancerLynn1]

12.4 is battery voltage, you should get a reading about 14V at 5K rpm.
Their reading is taken with a analog meter not a digital one. If you are getting 70-80 volts AC from the stator, no shorts to gnd ??? yes?? change the reg/rect

[Anonymous]

Me thinks the voltage reading that is discussed is for those who dont have the special tester and only have the basic voltmeter.

So maybe when they say "diode test position" they're just meaning the high precision volt meter?

Michael

[Anonymous]

12.4 is battery voltage, you should get a reading about 14V at 5K rpm

Yes, but I'm not. So I'm trying to find the problem.

Michael

[Anonymous]

yeah it seemed like there was 2 topics discussed together

[Anonymous]

12.4 is battery voltage, you should get a reading about 14V at 5K rpm.
Their reading is taken with a analog meter not a digital one. If you are getting 70-80 volts AC from the stator, no shorts to gnd ??? yes?? change the reg/rect

Yup, I'm thinking so. I guess it's really the last thing that can be wrong...

So I guess it really doesn't matter on the exact diagnosis. RR is it.

mmkay.

Michael

[Anonymous]

Heuly crap those things are expensive. I figured more like $30-50. But $120!!! How much do silicon and aluminum cost these days!!?

(Yeah, I'm just bitching. Sorry about being so snippy on this thread. Just frustrated with the troubleshooting. Thanks for the help)

Michael

[Anonymous]

my guess is your pocket book is like mine. (opens wallet and finds a big dust cloud)

[Anonymous]

Yeah, just got 95% laid off and veery low on the cash-ola. Need to hurry up and sell my old car. Free up some dough.

Just in case:

Subaru Legacy Wagon for sale. Good shape. Automatic tranny. New CV joints, windshield, battery, alternator, starter, tires. Recent belts and muffler. Sony XPLOD stereo. A/C, power locks and windows. $3000 OBO Richland, WA.

Michael

[Anonymous]

Your diode test setting is in the green section of you meter. from the top it reads ohms then continuity then the third one measures your diodes :arrow:
Mark