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Hi,
I know this is a Suzuki forum, but I've noticed that you have a great deal of knowledge about charging systems, so I thought I'd give it a shot, if you don't mind helping me.
I own a Kawasaki KLE 500 (similar to the EX 500). I keep replacing my RR (regulator rectifier), and it keeps dying on me. Here are my theories:
1) The original RR was 11 years old, when it started overcharging (18 volts and counting), so my mechanic suggested replacing it. This one may have died from natural causes.
2) The first replacement RR was a generic one (that is, unbranded). It had no sense wire, even though the bike's wiring expects an RR with one. But I was assured that it would work anyway, so I had it installed (there was a HUGE price difference compared to the Kawasaki RR). This one died in a couple of weeks. It shorted and drained my battery.
3) The second replacement RR was similar to the one before it. It lasted, let's say, a month and a week or so, then it started overcharging.
Number 2 and 3 may have died because they were too low-quality. But I don't want to replace the RR again, without making sure that it's not the stator what's killing them.
So I tested the stator as per GSresources/Electrek's fault-finding chart. It tested fine, I'd say perfect. But my mechanic says faulty stators may seem fine when measured, but they can peak randomly, and these high voltage peaks can kill the RR.
So, first of all: can this be true?
Second: does this mean that even though a stator may test fine by Electrek's fault-finding chart, it may STILL be faulty?
For the record, my battery is new and fully charged to 12.9v with a charger.
I want to add that I discovered that the system was overcharging because when I accelerate, the bike "sometimes" hesitates exactly when crossing the 3,000 rpm line. My mechanic says at that point the voltage is too high and the CDI goes crazy, hence the bike hesitating.
Along that theory, I think I've proved that the problem tends to disappear if I switch the headlight on, but it's difficult to be sure because it doesn't happen so consistently.
Other than that, the bike runs perfectly.
Thank you guys, please answer whatever crosses your minds.
I know this is a Suzuki forum, but I've noticed that you have a great deal of knowledge about charging systems, so I thought I'd give it a shot, if you don't mind helping me.
I own a Kawasaki KLE 500 (similar to the EX 500). I keep replacing my RR (regulator rectifier), and it keeps dying on me. Here are my theories:
1) The original RR was 11 years old, when it started overcharging (18 volts and counting), so my mechanic suggested replacing it. This one may have died from natural causes.
2) The first replacement RR was a generic one (that is, unbranded). It had no sense wire, even though the bike's wiring expects an RR with one. But I was assured that it would work anyway, so I had it installed (there was a HUGE price difference compared to the Kawasaki RR). This one died in a couple of weeks. It shorted and drained my battery.
3) The second replacement RR was similar to the one before it. It lasted, let's say, a month and a week or so, then it started overcharging.
Number 2 and 3 may have died because they were too low-quality. But I don't want to replace the RR again, without making sure that it's not the stator what's killing them.
So I tested the stator as per GSresources/Electrek's fault-finding chart. It tested fine, I'd say perfect. But my mechanic says faulty stators may seem fine when measured, but they can peak randomly, and these high voltage peaks can kill the RR.
So, first of all: can this be true?
Second: does this mean that even though a stator may test fine by Electrek's fault-finding chart, it may STILL be faulty?
For the record, my battery is new and fully charged to 12.9v with a charger.
I want to add that I discovered that the system was overcharging because when I accelerate, the bike "sometimes" hesitates exactly when crossing the 3,000 rpm line. My mechanic says at that point the voltage is too high and the CDI goes crazy, hence the bike hesitating.
Along that theory, I think I've proved that the problem tends to disappear if I switch the headlight on, but it's difficult to be sure because it doesn't happen so consistently.
Other than that, the bike runs perfectly.
Thank you guys, please answer whatever crosses your minds.
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