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    #1

    Sticky Throttle

    Got a strange probelm with my '83 GS 650 L:

    When i hit the throttle, and go up to anywhere over 2500 RPM or so, when I let off the throttle, the engine doesn't drop back down to it's idle speed (around 1000) right away, it drops down to about 2500 then hovers there for a few seconds, then drops back down to the idle speed.

    I have tried playing around with the adjustments on the throttle cable, going from loose as it will go, to tight as it will go, with the same results.

    I have also tried playing with the idle setting, but that has just given me another problem, that may or may not be related. The idle seems to be very inconsistant. I'll have the bike idleing all nice and smooth, then i'll turn it off, then back on, and instead of a nice 1000 rpm or so idle, i get a 2000+ rpm racing engine.

    I also notice little to no difference when adjusting the choke setting. I know that the mechanics of the lever work, because I can see the slider on the carbs move when i adjust the choke, but the engine doesn't seem to run any differently.

    These may all be speperate problems, they may be inter related, i'm not sure. Any advice would be appreciated by me. Ignoring me would be appreciated by my mechanic.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Have you tried lubing the cable?

    Comment

      #3
      I had an odd problem once with my old 81 GS1000GL. The throttle would stick at wide open position. The cable would recover, but the throttle plates would stick wide open. After 5 seconds or so, it would slowly close. I yanked the carbs, took them apart and found one of the throttle plate axles had a bit of oxidation. It added just enough friction to hold them open at WOT. Cleaned, lubed, and it was fine.


      Tim

      Comment

        #4
        I had a similar issue and simply lubed the cable and it went away. Had one of my cables crack on me and let moisture get in and the same thing happened. I have had two break on me in the six months I have owned the bike. Just seems to be the direction they run the cables that makes it bound to happen sooner or later. Anyways, I agree with the lube.

        Comment

          #5
          Check for vacuum leak, also Check the choke to make sure that it is actually off and not hanging open

          Comment

            #6
            Cable lube

            Well, I will try lubing the cable first, seems to be an easy and cheap solution. Is it ok to just use WD-40, or should I use something else?

            Comment

              #7
              WD 40 (or similar) is a very short term solution. Something like 80-90%
              of it disappears quickly as it is mostly solvent, and the balance tends not to stay for a long time.

              Much better to pull the throttle cable out and lube it properly. That way you can also see if there is any rust in there, or broken cable strands. The oldest stand-by is to simply hold the cable vertically, pull the cable a bit out of the sheath, and drip motor oil onto the cable. This takes a few minutes, one drop at a time. Then leave the cable suspended for a few minutes until you get a drip from the other end....reinstall and away you go.

              You can also yry an auto shop for canned cable lube with an injector nozzle that has a fitting that blows the lube right inside the sheath.
              (I have seen this advertised and recommended by others, but have not tried it.)
              Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

              ​

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by argonsagas
                WD 40 (or similar) is a very short term solution. Something like 80-90%
                of it disappears quickly as it is mostly solvent, and the balance tends not to stay for a long time.

                Much better to pull the throttle cable out and lube it properly. That way you can also see if there is any rust in there, or broken cable strands. The oldest stand-by is to simply hold the cable vertically, pull the cable a bit out of the sheath, and drip motor oil onto the cable. This takes a few minutes, one drop at a time. Then leave the cable suspended for a few minutes until you get a drip from the other end....reinstall and away you go.

                You can also yry an auto shop for canned cable lube with an injector nozzle that has a fitting that blows the lube right inside the sheath.
                (I have seen this advertised and recommended by others, but have not tried it.)
                I BOUGHT ONE OF THOSE LUBE GADGETS ABOUT 4 YEARS AGO--ITS STILL IN THE BAG--LOOKS LIKE A PAIN TO USE--MY LATEST METHOD FOR THE PAST 40 YEARS IS TO REMOVE THE CABLE FROM THE LEVER OR TWIST GRIP AND SQUIRT SOME MOTOR OIL IN IT, TILL IT RUNS OUT THE OTHER END- ALL CABLE LUBING IS A PAIN UNTILL ONE BRAKES AND YOU ARE IN THE MIDDLE OF A SOUTHERN FLORIDA SWAMP WITHOUT YOUR 45

                Comment

                  #9
                  Me. too, Scotty. I used to turn my bicycle upside down regularly and run the oil through from the bottom for both brake and gear cables, so I was always certain it was well-oiled. Never had a problem with sticking cables.

                  Little more difficult to do that with the GS.
                  Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

                  ​

                  Comment

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