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Hi,
This is my first time posting. I just bought a 1981 GS550L, my first bike, for $200, and among a few minor other things (mostly cosmetic), it really just had an oil leak (bad head gasket and a few other gaskets that I've ordered and am soon to install with a friend) and very dirty carbs that were running quite rich I think.
I've torn it apart somewhat now, mostly to clean the engine and replace all the gaskets and stuff. The valves and pistons have lots of carbon buildup on them. Although I think my work installing all new gaskets and making all necessary engine adjustments (along with the professional job I'm having done on the carbs right now - cleaning, replacing anything needed and calibration) will make the engine run okay, I really want to remove all the carbon from the valves and pistons. Is something like ZMax a good idea. I've actually gone ahead and tried to clean them with "Gunk" Engine Bright, which I think says "don't use on motorcycles" (I ignored that - is that OK?) and is more for grease, oil, dust and grime on the outside of the engine parts than inside carbon buildup, and it wasn't that effective. That won't really harm the engine, will it?
The problem is, the bike has only 12,000 original miles (the previous owner(s) left it out to rot basically) and I kind of want to replace the valve head (piece below camshafts and above cylinders?) because one of the fins on the exterior of the piece is damaged, and the entire piece doesn't look nearly as good as one I saw at the salvage yard today from a 78 GS550 with like 35,000 miles on it.
Should I:
A. Rebuild my existing parts using all the new gaskets, then use an engine treatment (if so, which one(s), ZMax?) to clean the carbon out after it's back together.
B. The same thing with the piece from the salvage yard (looks much[/i:
c44e70bcab] better on the outside (obviously I'd have to check for interior cracks and stuff), but does have over 20,000 miles more than mine, which really just looks bad and has carbon buildup.
C. Somehow clean all the carbon before rebuilding orginal piece. If so, how and with what do I do this?
D. same as C but with the piece from the salvaged bike.
E. something I haven't thought of, explain please.
For all the above - should I actually get new valves? Where?
Next, I wanted to go with a higher performance exhaust for two reasons. First, mine have to have a lot of work put in to look good, and new ones would be, well, new! Second, I'm a big guy and the 48 horses I'm making when I make the bike spec are a little weak for what I'd like, so I'm looking to add power. If I did this, I'd consider a 4 into 1 but would really like to keep the 4 into 2 stock look but add power. I would also the K & N clamp on racing air kit that replaces the standard air box assemble with the metallic cone things to give (supposedly) power increases of up to 12% for about $110, then rejet the carbs to run best with this new intake/exhaust flow. The guy at the place I'm having the carbs done at strongly advised me to basically keep the bike stock because the power increases I want wouldn't really be there and the normally smooth running engine might have problems. I grudgingly took his word for, but i had to draw the line somewhere.
He even told me I really shouldn't replace even the stock air filter with a K & N stock filter replacement ([i:c44e70bcab]NOT the clamp on kit), but I can't understand why. K & N has been making world class filters that racers and municipalities have been using for years and they very specifically claim no rejetting or other adjustmenst are needed (there are adjustmenst and rejetting needed with the clamp on kit). I went ahead and ordered just the filter replacement ($50 or so) anyway against his advice.
Am I right o
r is he. Am I taking a risk with the lifetime guaranteed K & N, or will I be fine?
Would I have been better off given my performance wishes to also go against his advice and get a new non-OEM exhaust and the K & N clamp on kit?
I'm also repainting the tank and side covers which badly need it. I've been quoted $300 for a complete preparation (stripping, rust removal, etc) of my tank and side covers, 4 coats of solid color paint and a clear coat. Is this a good idea or should I try to paint it myself?
One last thing. In my quest to make the engione look new and shiny, I'm considering experimenting with some of that high temp silver paint that I could paint onto engine parts, especially the front. Anyone ever try this and have advice?
Anyone know about plastic chrome look cylinder head, cam, and other covers for a GS and where to get them if they're worth it?
Anyone know of a good place to order new bolt sets that shine and stay tight?
Anyone have advice on chrome engine guards and/or highway footpegs and where to get them?
I know this post is hopelessly long but I figured it might be best to get everything out at once as a reference. Anyway, I'll be thrilled by any help or advice and will do my best to contribute to everyone else's projects too!
This is my first time posting. I just bought a 1981 GS550L, my first bike, for $200, and among a few minor other things (mostly cosmetic), it really just had an oil leak (bad head gasket and a few other gaskets that I've ordered and am soon to install with a friend) and very dirty carbs that were running quite rich I think.
I've torn it apart somewhat now, mostly to clean the engine and replace all the gaskets and stuff. The valves and pistons have lots of carbon buildup on them. Although I think my work installing all new gaskets and making all necessary engine adjustments (along with the professional job I'm having done on the carbs right now - cleaning, replacing anything needed and calibration) will make the engine run okay, I really want to remove all the carbon from the valves and pistons. Is something like ZMax a good idea. I've actually gone ahead and tried to clean them with "Gunk" Engine Bright, which I think says "don't use on motorcycles" (I ignored that - is that OK?) and is more for grease, oil, dust and grime on the outside of the engine parts than inside carbon buildup, and it wasn't that effective. That won't really harm the engine, will it?
The problem is, the bike has only 12,000 original miles (the previous owner(s) left it out to rot basically) and I kind of want to replace the valve head (piece below camshafts and above cylinders?) because one of the fins on the exterior of the piece is damaged, and the entire piece doesn't look nearly as good as one I saw at the salvage yard today from a 78 GS550 with like 35,000 miles on it.
Should I:
A. Rebuild my existing parts using all the new gaskets, then use an engine treatment (if so, which one(s), ZMax?) to clean the carbon out after it's back together.
B. The same thing with the piece from the salvage yard (looks much[/i:
c44e70bcab] better on the outside (obviously I'd have to check for interior cracks and stuff), but does have over 20,000 miles more than mine, which really just looks bad and has carbon buildup.
C. Somehow clean all the carbon before rebuilding orginal piece. If so, how and with what do I do this?
D. same as C but with the piece from the salvaged bike.
E. something I haven't thought of, explain please.
For all the above - should I actually get new valves? Where?
Next, I wanted to go with a higher performance exhaust for two reasons. First, mine have to have a lot of work put in to look good, and new ones would be, well, new! Second, I'm a big guy and the 48 horses I'm making when I make the bike spec are a little weak for what I'd like, so I'm looking to add power. If I did this, I'd consider a 4 into 1 but would really like to keep the 4 into 2 stock look but add power. I would also the K & N clamp on racing air kit that replaces the standard air box assemble with the metallic cone things to give (supposedly) power increases of up to 12% for about $110, then rejet the carbs to run best with this new intake/exhaust flow. The guy at the place I'm having the carbs done at strongly advised me to basically keep the bike stock because the power increases I want wouldn't really be there and the normally smooth running engine might have problems. I grudgingly took his word for, but i had to draw the line somewhere.
He even told me I really shouldn't replace even the stock air filter with a K & N stock filter replacement ([i:c44e70bcab]NOT the clamp on kit), but I can't understand why. K & N has been making world class filters that racers and municipalities have been using for years and they very specifically claim no rejetting or other adjustmenst are needed (there are adjustmenst and rejetting needed with the clamp on kit). I went ahead and ordered just the filter replacement ($50 or so) anyway against his advice.
Am I right o
r is he. Am I taking a risk with the lifetime guaranteed K & N, or will I be fine?
Would I have been better off given my performance wishes to also go against his advice and get a new non-OEM exhaust and the K & N clamp on kit?
I'm also repainting the tank and side covers which badly need it. I've been quoted $300 for a complete preparation (stripping, rust removal, etc) of my tank and side covers, 4 coats of solid color paint and a clear coat. Is this a good idea or should I try to paint it myself?
One last thing. In my quest to make the engione look new and shiny, I'm considering experimenting with some of that high temp silver paint that I could paint onto engine parts, especially the front. Anyone ever try this and have advice?
Anyone know about plastic chrome look cylinder head, cam, and other covers for a GS and where to get them if they're worth it?
Anyone know of a good place to order new bolt sets that shine and stay tight?
Anyone have advice on chrome engine guards and/or highway footpegs and where to get them?
I know this post is hopelessly long but I figured it might be best to get everything out at once as a reference. Anyway, I'll be thrilled by any help or advice and will do my best to contribute to everyone else's projects too!
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