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One more question about stator and RR.
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SqDancerLynn1
No matter how technical you want to get 99.9 % of us ride with our headlights on, some states it is the law! SO bypassing the loop thru the switch eliminates the extra resistance of dirty contacts and an extra 6 ft of wire allowing the stator to run cooler THE voltage the battery sees will NOT increase beyond the capacity of the regulator
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Dave_A
Ahh...
So THIS is why I've had charging problems - even though my system passes the 'stator papers' test - since I jerry-rigged the new wiring harness...
My light is no longer running on the 'light circuit, but is being powered by a jumpered-in lead to the light switch... Which would mean I'm running at ~66% capacity, since the light circuit is never operable...
Time to do the RR snip tomoorrow, then...
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Anonymous
Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1THE voltage the battery sees will NOT increase beyond the capacity of the regulator
You should really only bypass the light switch when fitting a proper 3 phase RR. If your charging system still has the original components (not many by now I would have thought....) then clean up all the connections and the light switch, fit an extra earth direct to the battery from the reg and rec, and you should be OK.
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Anonymous
Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1No matter how technical you want to get 99.9 % of us ride with our headlights on, some states it is the law! SO bypassing the loop thru the switch eliminates the extra resistance of dirty contacts and an extra 6 ft of wire allowing the stator to run cooler THE voltage the battery sees will NOT increase beyond the capacity of the regulator
The system should work perfectly if you switch your headlamps on and off occasionally. I do prefer this feature as it is a good way to signal a pass or to warn oncoming traffic, or cars exiting a driveway, etc. of my presence. I personally think it is a good idea to "flash"your headlamps often and use this trick all the time with great effectiveness. Simply flashing your high beams on and off does not have the same visual impact as completely switching the headlamp on and off. It really does work, people take notice of flashing lights.
A lot of guys here on this forum preach the "total control" philosophy of motorcycling by criticizing ABS or some such thing and yet never think to have control of one of the most vital tools of visibility on your machine, the headlamp.
If you NEVER use your headlamp switch, I would think a bypass of the phase A switch would be a good idea. If you do use your headlamp switch (I highly recommend it), the bypass is totally unnecessary. I DO NOT recommend driving around without a headlamp on but, there's no reason in the world you shouldn't be able to flick it off from time to time.
Does this make sense??
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Anonymous
Originally posted by brit7.11Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1THE voltage the battery sees will NOT increase beyond the capacity of the regulator
You should really only bypass the light switch when fitting a proper 3 phase RR. If your charging system still has the original components (not many by now I would have thought....) then clean up all the connections and the light switch, fit an extra earth direct to the battery from the reg and rec, and you should be OK.
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Anonymous
Originally posted by Dave_AAhh...
So THIS is why I've had charging problems - even though my system passes the 'stator papers' test - since I jerry-rigged the new wiring harness...
My light is no longer running on the 'light circuit, but is being powered by a jumpered-in lead to the light switch... Which would mean I'm running at ~66% capacity, since the light circuit is never operable...
Time to do the RR snip tomoorrow, then...
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Forum SageCharter Member
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 3869
- The Gulf Coast of south Florida in the winter and northern Nevada in the summer
Great!
I think these might very well be the BEST posts I've ever seen on the GS Resources forum. I eagerly await your next one. Thank you, James!1980 GS1100E....Number 15!
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Eliseo Monteverde
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Eliseo Monteverde
In my Country (Argentina and Brazil too)the Law says that it?s only necessary to ride with lights on when it?s getting dark ,or when you ride on the road during daylight.
Apart from that, my "baby Kat" came from Australia and the right control has 3 positions...
#1- Ligths off (only: turns lights, cluster, oil, and neutral light works)
#2- Park light or side light (it?s a 8 Amp yellow bulb which is under the 55/60Amp bulb.This also works with rear lights and gauges lights.)
#3- All the lights (park light doesn?t work in this position)
In my Country it?s also legal to ride in position #2 on ligthtened streets.
In some ocassions I had problems with car drivers, due to my lights being reflected into the car mirrors .
I do prefer this feature as it is a good way to signal a pass or to warn oncoming traffic, or cars exiting a driveway, etc. of my presence. I personally think it is a good idea to "flash"your headlamps often and use this trick all the time with great effectiveness. Simply flashing your high beams on and off does not have the same visual impact as completely switching the headlamp on and off. It really does work, people take notice of flashing lights.
Originally posted by basarajI do prefer this feature as it is a good way to signal a pass or to warn oncoming traffic, or cars exiting a driveway, etc. of my presence. I personally think it is a good idea to "flash"your headlamps often and use this trick all the time with great effectiveness. Simply flashing your high beams on and off does not have the same visual impact as completely switching the headlamp on and off. It really does work, people take notice of flashing lights.
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