Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

One more question about stator and RR.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    No matter how technical you want to get 99.9 % of us ride with our headlights on, some states it is the law! SO bypassing the loop thru the switch eliminates the extra resistance of dirty contacts and an extra 6 ft of wire allowing the stator to run cooler THE voltage the battery sees will NOT increase beyond the capacity of the regulator

    Comment


      #17
      Ahh...

      So THIS is why I've had charging problems - even though my system passes the 'stator papers' test - since I jerry-rigged the new wiring harness...

      My light is no longer running on the 'light circuit, but is being powered by a jumpered-in lead to the light switch... Which would mean I'm running at ~66% capacity, since the light circuit is never operable...

      Time to do the RR snip tomoorrow, then...

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1
        THE voltage the battery sees will NOT increase beyond the capacity of the regulator
        If I understood James' post, yes it will as only two of three phases are regulated on the GS's in question, and on early 750's only 1 of three!

        You should really only bypass the light switch when fitting a proper 3 phase RR. If your charging system still has the original components (not many by now I would have thought....) then clean up all the connections and the light switch, fit an extra earth direct to the battery from the reg and rec, and you should be OK.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1
          No matter how technical you want to get 99.9 % of us ride with our headlights on, some states it is the law! SO bypassing the loop thru the switch eliminates the extra resistance of dirty contacts and an extra 6 ft of wire allowing the stator to run cooler THE voltage the battery sees will NOT increase beyond the capacity of the regulator
          Actually it will, since the regulator only shunts voltage on two of the three phases and on the AC side, not the DC side which would be at the battery (read my post!). With a decrease in load (headlamp off) and the phase A switch bypassed, you will see an increase in the voltage at the battery. This is proven by the fact that the switch even exists in the design. And trust me, batteries DO NOT like more than about 13.8V for any length of time. If you run during the day and your headlamp burns out, you will probably fry your battery without the ability to turn that phase off, due to a bypass.

          The system should work perfectly if you switch your headlamps on and off occasionally. I do prefer this feature as it is a good way to signal a pass or to warn oncoming traffic, or cars exiting a driveway, etc. of my presence. I personally think it is a good idea to "flash"your headlamps often and use this trick all the time with great effectiveness. Simply flashing your high beams on and off does not have the same visual impact as completely switching the headlamp on and off. It really does work, people take notice of flashing lights.

          A lot of guys here on this forum preach the "total control" philosophy of motorcycling by criticizing ABS or some such thing and yet never think to have control of one of the most vital tools of visibility on your machine, the headlamp.

          If you NEVER use your headlamp switch, I would think a bypass of the phase A switch would be a good idea. If you do use your headlamp switch (I highly recommend it), the bypass is totally unnecessary. I DO NOT recommend driving around without a headlamp on but, there's no reason in the world you shouldn't be able to flick it off from time to time.

          Does this make sense??

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by brit7.11
            Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1
            THE voltage the battery sees will NOT increase beyond the capacity of the regulator
            If I understood James' post, yes it will as only two of three phases are regulated on the GS's in question, and on early 750's only 1 of three!

            You should really only bypass the light switch when fitting a proper 3 phase RR. If your charging system still has the original components (not many by now I would have thought....) then clean up all the connections and the light switch, fit an extra earth direct to the battery from the reg and rec, and you should be OK.
            Bravo!

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by Dave_A
              Ahh...

              So THIS is why I've had charging problems - even though my system passes the 'stator papers' test - since I jerry-rigged the new wiring harness...

              My light is no longer running on the 'light circuit, but is being powered by a jumpered-in lead to the light switch... Which would mean I'm running at ~66% capacity, since the light circuit is never operable...

              Time to do the RR snip tomoorrow, then...
              Yep, if the phase A circuit is never switched on and you are running your headlamp direct, you will drain your battery and fry your alternator.

              Comment


                #22
                Great!

                I think these might very well be the BEST posts I've ever seen on the GS Resources forum. I eagerly await your next one. Thank you, James!
                1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

                Comment


                  #23
                  Thanks James for your electrical class !!!!
                  It was very clear !!!!!.

                  Eliseo.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    In my Country (Argentina and Brazil too)the Law says that it?s only necessary to ride with lights on when it?s getting dark ,or when you ride on the road during daylight.
                    Apart from that, my "baby Kat" came from Australia and the right control has 3 positions...
                    #1- Ligths off (only: turns lights, cluster, oil, and neutral light works)
                    #2- Park light or side light (it?s a 8 Amp yellow bulb which is under the 55/60Amp bulb.This also works with rear lights and gauges lights.)
                    #3- All the lights (park light doesn?t work in this position)

                    In my Country it?s also legal to ride in position #2 on ligthtened streets.
                    In some ocassions I had problems with car drivers, due to my lights being reflected into the car mirrors .

                    I do prefer this feature as it is a good way to signal a pass or to warn oncoming traffic, or cars exiting a driveway, etc. of my presence. I personally think it is a good idea to "flash"your headlamps often and use this trick all the time with great effectiveness. Simply flashing your high beams on and off does not have the same visual impact as completely switching the headlamp on and off. It really does work, people take notice of flashing lights.

                    Originally posted by basaraj
                    I do prefer this feature as it is a good way to signal a pass or to warn oncoming traffic, or cars exiting a driveway, etc. of my presence. I personally think it is a good idea to "flash"your headlamps often and use this trick all the time with great effectiveness. Simply flashing your high beams on and off does not have the same visual impact as completely switching the headlamp on and off. It really does work, people take notice of flashing lights.
                    I always do this trick, also is recommended by my Country?s Law.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X