GS1000 leaky carb "T" fitting. How to fix?

[Anonymous]

Heres the rundown. Put my carbs back together today. It was a complete rebuild (acid dip). I installed a Stage 3 jet kit and new o-rings all around. Got them installed on the bike, put the tank on, add some gas, and turn on my new Pingle petcock. 10 seconds later I have gas coming out like it is nobodys business. If it didn't cost $1million a gallon I probally wouldn't mind. JK!! :-({|= So I traced the leak to the main fuel fitting, You know, that "T" inteerchange between cdarbs 2 and 3. Never had a problem with it before, but since I had to fool with it, of course it leaks now.
My question is can I just fit a few o-rings on either end and fix it, or do I need to order a new piece from the Stealership? I will try the o-ring fix anyway, just wondering if anyone has tried it before?

Thanks,
-Tom

[SqDancerLynn1]

WHAT year ?? VM type do not have replacable O ring - use some type of sealer?? a wrap of teflon tape ? BS type do have replacable O ring

[Anonymous]

Sorry about that. It is a 1979 GS1000L. I have the good old VM's. Never thought about teflon tape.

[gremlin]

teflon tape is not a good ideal. you should have O rings, replacing them will be a better bet.

[Anonymous]

Your carbs use that rubberized fuel inlet 'T', right?

Some years do, some don't. Earlier carbs use a steel (aluminum?) 'T' with grooves for O-rings. I'd be willing to bet that the I.D. of the bore where these 'T's fit are the same between the years, so that the earlier 'T' could be substituted for the rubberized one.

In any event, let us know how this works out.

RB

[Anonymous]

OK, heres what I ended up doing. Had to take the carbs apart for the 10 millionth time. Got the "T" fitting out and wraped both ends in teflon tape. There was no place for o-rings. Lucky me I have an old crapy design. Anyway I was able to find two o-rings that fit over the teflon. Put one on each end and put the carbs back together. The o-rings do not actually go into the fuel rail, but get smashed between the carb body and the "T" fitting. The set up is extremely tight. Put everything back on the bike and re-timed the new DynaIII. Flipped the switch, pull the choke, and VROOOM. Houston we have lift-off. Checked for leaks and guess what....NO LEAKS (at least no fuel leaks). The "T" fitting was dry as a bone. The only leak I have is from an oil return line fitting that I will take care of tomorrow.

I could not get the bike to idel off choke, so that will be tomorrow night. I installed a Stage three jet kit (4-1 and pods). Anyone with suggestions for base settings. I have them set per K&N's instructions, but obviously no luck. I need to get the bike to idle off choke so that I can sync them first. OK, I need to start another thread for this.

Thanks,
-Tom \/

[chefjosh]

I just bought an 81 GS450e and have what I think is the same problem with the "T" fitting. Gas leaks pretty quickly from what looks to be this T fitting. I took the carbs off and the T fitting moves left and right easily, and if I blow into the end of the fuel line connected to it, fuel and air bubbles come out of the junction points on both carbs. The previous owner didn't have this problem before, but the carbs had been cleaned just before the bike was put away for a year. This fitting was probably also damaged during the cleaning process.

Well, I've found the part on Bike Bandit for about $23 but I wanted to check and see if someone had a better solution. Plus I'm not 100% certain this is where the leak is.

Is there a better aftermarket replacement part out there, perhaps one that is cheaper or more reliable? I know for sure I have the rubberized plastic version that has some ridges around it to create a seal, no "O" rings.

Maybe there is a sealant solution? Gasket sealer, silicon, silicon tape, bubble gum? I couldn't find much on the forum, I'm hoping there is some known solution or at least some things that I should avoid.

[Hoomgar]

You can (if you have a steady hand) take an exacto blade and cut away the rise areas of the rubber on those and clear it out. Then you can replace it with o-rings. I am not sure of the exact o-ring size as I myself have not done this but I do know an old school mechanic who told me about this.

Another (more questionable but works) trick is to use a little 2+2 gum cutter and soak the part in it a few hours, then let it dry completely (in the sun is good) and then soak it in gas. Once that is done install it wet and they should have swollen enough to seal. This over time can dry crack them though. I suggest cutting the old risen parts out and replacing with o-rings. I'll see if I can call him and get the o-ring size. Don't hold you’re breathe though, this guy rarely answers his phone

[chefjosh]

Mark,

Thanks for the quick and helpful reply. That actually sounds like a good idea. I'm not against spending the money to buy the parts, but hey, it's nice to do your own work. While I'm familiar with the workings of the engine and carbs, this is my first older bike. I'm not used to dealing with the effects of 25 years on common parts.

Silly question, where does one buy O rings of this size? I've seen them online, but I've never had to buy one at a store. Is this the kind of thing that only bike shops would have, or would Home Depot or some specialty store carry them?

- Josh

[bmac]

You are right Hoomgar, didn't have my extra set of eyes on and was replacing all te o-rings took a blade cut what I thought was an o-ring
and iy was molded plastic on the t-tube. Felt pretty stupid, well I had the
o-rings and continued on. Hasn't been a problem. Auto parts ,repair shop they carry assorted o-rings.



bmac

[Hoomgar]

They just have to be rated fuel resistant. You cannot just use any rubber o-ring. Contact Robert Bar from his http://cycleorings.com/ web site. I believe he will have something that fits. If you cut out the piece clean enough try to measure it. I tried calling my mechanic buddy for you to no avail Sorry about that, it is just how he is during busy season but the guy is good and if he says this works then it works. All you need is an o-ring that fits snug around the diameter of the t-fitting and is thick enough to make a seal. Wish I knew the size for you. Try measuring and get in touch with Robert.