Another Chain-Letter.....

[Guest]

I have an 80 450e that needs a chain replacement badly. I had a few wonders about this exchange.

I was trying to remove the rear wheel and found I would have to remove the exaust to do so. Is this common (my bike has a funky user installed system)? Any issues with removing the exhaust I should be aware of?

I have seen some threads on chain types, and I was wondering if the O-ring is really that much better than a heavy-duty std m-cycle chain?

Also I noticed that the previous owner had to do the trick to re-head the scerws where he chisled a new head socket most likely due to stripping it. I need to remove the cover so I can look at the front sprocket and was concerned about this reheading. Will this be a problem? Can they be replaced? Where would I find them if I can replace them?

I know thats a lot of questions.... But better to be informed, right?
Thanks for your help!

[Anonymous]

I don't think you need to remove the exhaust to get the rear tire off, but I'm not the one to talk. With my cobbled together exhaust system, guess what...................I have to remove the left pipe. Don't know anything about the GS front sprocket, but there are a few of those GREASY, CHAIN-WHIPPED types running around this board who will. When I swapped the sprockets and chain on my KAW I went with the o-ring style. It made a huge difference.

[Anonymous]

E\z way

When I replace my chain I don't take the wheel off or the side cover unless I want to inspect the sprocket\clutch. My bike came with a chain that has a master link on it. The new chains I have gotten all have a master link as well.
I simply do the following.
1. Remove the master link on the existing chain and pull out the link.
2. Put the one of the posts of the master link through the old chain on the end that will travel towards the front of the bike on the top of the gear.
3. Attach the new chain to the other post. (you now have one really long chain and the new on is draped down your driveway).
4 slowly pull on the old chain that is coming down from the drive gear and the new one follows and threads right on the sprockets.
5. Remove the old chain from the master link and add the master link cover and clip according to the instructions. The clip goes on a certain way so that it does not come off.
This should work unless you have a chain that comes without a master link.
Mike N

[Anonymous]

1. If removing exhaust, fit new exhaust gaskets at the joint with the head. Be extremely careful that the screws/studs aren't seized into the head. If they are, stop and think REAL hard before shearing them off.

2. Don't even consider using a non o-ring chain in this day and age.

3. New screws can be had at a good hardware shop. M6 x whatever, preferably stainless, allen/socket heads.

4. You shouldn't, (according to the chain makers) use a "split link" on a bike bigger than 250cc. You should ideally be using a riveted link for safety. I'm no safety nazi, just so long as you know.

5. You really should replace your sprockets at the same time as the chain, otherwise the part worn sprockets will cause rapid chain wear. Sprockets are cheap.

Good luck, happy spannering.

[bgmart450]

Thanks!

Well, I was able to remove the chain and sprocket fairly easy. Once I had light penetrating oil and the right tools, it was cake. I am hoping that it'll be as easy to reassemle. I'll look for those screws. Now should I replace those aluminum screws with allen heads? Or just regular screws 'philips' style?

I had to loosen the whole exhaust because when he put the pipes on he put in an "h" pipe. Didn't want to bend the 'h' pipe.

Thanks for your help!

[Anonymous]

Split link

After reading the reply by brit, I wonder if the chains that I have been buying are inferior since they come with a master link. Are the o ring chains you guys are talking about one continious chain?
Thanks,
Mike

[Anonymous]

I've found it easier to remove the rear wheel on some Suzukis by first removing the rear shocks at their top mount and letting the wheel drop down. This should give you clearence to pull the axle out. On the subject of chains I'm a firm believer that a good quality o-ring chain will by far outlast a non o-ring type and with much less maintenence. I personally like D.I.D. x-rings but also have used RK's with success. I've never had a bad experience with masterlink clips coming off but it is important to install them correctly. Make sure you get the link plate pushed in far enought that the clip goes on easily and then pull the plate back up against the clip until it's snug.
Axel

[Anonymous]

Re: Split link

After reading the reply by brit, I wonder if the chains that I have been buying are inferior since they come with a master link. Are the o ring chains you guys are talking about one continious chain?
Thanks,
Mike

In this country you'd have a job finding someone who'd sell you a split link for any of the larger size chains.
I do know guys who use them for drag racing but then thats only a couple of miles per weekend.
Your choice, but I would never use one.

[earlfor]

Re: Split link

I guess different strokes for different folks huh? I've used chains with masterlinks for about 30 years and have yet to have a masterlink fail. I put about 45000 miles on a 750 kaw triple using chain with a master link. The kaw was an all on or all off bike, so when you nailed the power, the HP instantly went from about 15 to 90 or so. I think its likely it stressed chains more highly than even an 1150 GS does. My experience does not support reliability or safety being in question with chains using masterlinks.

Earl

In this country you'd have a job finding someone who'd sell you a split link for any of the larger size chains.
I do know guys who use them for drag racing but then thats only a couple of miles per weekend.
Your choice, but I would never use one.

[Jethro]

If you need to take the exhaust off to remove the rear wheel you must have an aftermarket job. Do you need to remove exhaust just to do an adjustment? Anyway, take my word for it, a non-o-ring chain is a waste of money. I thought I could get away with one for a year until I got to the compleate restoration I am now undergoing. The chain I bought was el-cheapo and lasted 8 months. It also needed adjustment every ride and totally trashed my sprockets. Also the ride quality was like night and day! The chain was total crap- never buy anything but a good quality o-ring chain.. As for the master link issue, one time I was doing a pre-ride inspection (I was heading out for an 800 mile weekend rip) and noticed that my master link was missing the closure plate! The link had just started to bend. I shudder to think what could have happened if it snapped. I will look for continuous chains from now on- does any one know where to find such a thing?