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84 750EF Problems, attempted repairs, still gots problems.

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    84 750EF Problems, attempted repairs, still gots problems.

    First off, again, this is a great forum and a great resource. Since I'm not anything close to resembling a mechanic, or even mechanically savvy, the suggestions and tips i've read and received have been invaluable.

    My bike: 84 750EF, Canadian model with the full fairings , 55000 kms on it. to my knowledge the engine has never been rebuilt. last year had the cam chain replaced.

    My story: When i got the bike, the next day I was bombing down the highway when the oil light came on. Pulled over, clutch in, rpms low. bike shuts off. puddle of oil underneath her cause some idiot repair shop in vancouver that the prev. owner took her to didn't tighten the oil drain plug, and it FELL OUT. drained all the oil from the case, and probably did some damage. hitchiked back home, got the bike there, replaced the plug, filled her up with new oil and started. first try. how lucky am I?
    Since I didn't know what to listen for when i bought it, I can't tell if anything sounds different. I did notice one thing tho, listed below in the problems


    List of problems:
    1) Instrument cluster backing is held on with tape. (cosmetic only)
    2) Another cosmetic, needs some road rash repair on engine covers and fairings (both sides)
    3) Instruments: Tachometer doesn't function higher than 6000 or so. Fuel gauge doesn't read "F" when it's full, only reads 2/3.
    4)Needed a new rear tire, was bald, fixed that with help from this forum
    5)4-1 Supertrapp exhaust, been told I should check the needles etc. See below.
    6) since the breakdown: tica tica tica tica from what sounds like the left side of the engine near the top. I've been told I should get my valve clearances checked/reset.
    7) also I would imagine since the breakdown: hollow sounding knock very quiet from the lower part of the engine onthe right hand side, very close to the back.
    8 ) Popping from the exhaust when I let off the throttle and decellerate. I think that this is because it's lean and is related to some extra rings I put on (related to #4).


    Solutions: Also known as: Did i do this right?!?!


    1 & 2) Not worried, don't care right now. Just want it to run better.
    3) Tach: No idea. Fuel gauge: Follwed the directions for checking it in this forum. The gauge itself seems to be OK, reads "F" when the leads are connected, so I would assume that it's the float on the tank.

    5 & 8 )
    It's been suggested that I pull the lid off the breather box so it can breathe,but this will just lean it out more will it not? What about getting pods or a K&N filter for inside the box?

    I'm running 4 rings right now. Pulled the plugs. They are very light, someone would probably say tan but I think they are more whitish. Tells me it's lean, right, too much air??? Checked the needles. They have 5 little grooves in the top. (not stock, so must be a jet kit?) e-clip was on the thrid from the top, right in the middle. I moved it down one groove. i *THINK* this raises the needle, allowing more fuel, also known as richening the mix?
    However, i still get the popping. Feels like it's got more oomph though, at least in the lower range. I took it for a test ride without the fairings and seemed OK. SO: I suppose I should try my various mixture screws, starting with the pilot jet screw. (I do have the service manual, but the diagrams are greek to me). I know that there are three screws there, but when I was poking around with the carbs this afternoon I didn't see them, at least, I didn't know what I was looking for. Judging by the cutaway, it looks like the screws are up under the float bowls?! so, if I want to make these tiny little adjustments to the screws do I have to take the whole dang carbs out?
    Might this be related to the next item?

    6) Tica Tica Tica tica. I've been told i need valve clearances checked. However, I've also been told it's fine for a bike this old. Looking thru the service manual, it doesn't look that difficult, but what am I acutally going to measure, like where does the feeler gauge go? There are several different clearances that are listed: Valve clearance cold: .09 - 13 (mm I suppose), valve guide to valve stem clearances, etc. I think the first one, but again, clearance between what and what?

    7) Knocking can't be good. Don't know what it is though, and it sounds very quiet. I can't tell cause of the tica tica from the top of the engine. Ideas?



    I'm not looking for solutions for everything, mainly just a suggestion on what to try or where to go. Taking it to a mechanic is not out of the question, nor is putting the bike up for sale if it's got too many issues.

    #2
    The screws under the float bowls don't do anything other than hold the bowls to the carbs, but there should be four of them. The only screw that does anything for mixture is on the top front of the carbs. If you have the needles raised all the way and are still lean you need bigger mains. You measure valve clearances between the top of the valve stems and the bottom of the threaded adjusters on each rocker arm. Run the valve clearances and see if it helps with the ticking. If you shut down right away you may have gotten away without doing any damage. The knock if it is coming from where you describe could be clutch or transmission.

    Comment


      #3
      if I put pods on it'd just lean it out more and I'd definitley need bigger mains right?

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        #4
        With the way it is already a bit lean most definitely.

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          #5
          Hi there I'm in Vancouver myself
          Send me an email and I can try to help you out
          Someone said that if you have a exhaust leak you can get the popping sound on deceleration.
          The clutch does make noise on these bikes,Katman explained that the clutch basket is riveted and will develop some play.This can be fixed by welding it.
          Mikey

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            #6
            Your tachometer problem may be one frequently encountered with the electronic tachs on Suzuki bikes of this vintage. It seems to manifest itself as follows: the tach works normally until about 5,000 rpm, then the pointer behaves extremely erratically with increasing engine revs by sudden increases and decreases in indicated revs. One of our Swedish correspondents, Karl, found a fix for this by changing out two of the electronic capacitors on the tach's little circuit board (search the "Tips and Tricks" Forum for his detailed post). I followed the procedure described by Karl but it didn't fix my tach. However, I believe that Dink (one of our Australian correspondents) had success using this fix.

            BB

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              #7
              Here's a link to the tach fix that Bolder Biker was taking about.

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the link on the tacho fix, that's exactly what is happening. I'll give that a try this weekend perhaps. Looks like it requires only some minor soldering, most of the work is pulling off the fairings and plastic housings

                As for the exhaust leak, I don't suspect that it's the cause. The way that the Supertrapp works is with removable rings - the more rings you put on it, the more air comes out, more air means leaner, but in my case with more rings I get more power. And raising the needles one notch also gave me more power, so correct me if I'm wrong but I need to find the balance between needle position and rings on the exhaust, right? Should I be making adjustments to the jet screws as well?

                Billy Ricks:
                The screws under the float bowls don't do anything other than hold the bowls to the carbs, but there should be four of them. The only screw that does anything for mixture is on the top front of the carbs.

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                  #9
                  Mike,

                  Thanks for providing the link to Karl's (kz's) thread in the Tech Forum.

                  Karl subsequently put together a description of his procedure in the Tips & Tricks Forum. This is the link:



                  In his procedure description, Karl provides a link to his site, where he provides pictures of the tach circuit board. I haven't tried to see if the link is still working but I do remember that the pictured circuit board from his GS1150 was absolutely identical to the one in my 1983 GS750ES (US market).

                  BB

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Glad I could help. It just happens my GS1150 is doing the same thing. I haven't got to it yet, I'd prefer to ride it on the weekends then take it apart. Just need to track down the capacitors first.
                    Let me know how it went. I'm curious how hard it is to do, and how successful it is.
                    This forum is great and the knowledge from everyone is unbelievable.
                    Good luck.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Good to see another GS750EF Rider. Mine's in blue!

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                        #12
                        yeah there's not too many 750EFs that I've seen around. I hear that they weren't brought to the states that year.

                        if I can get everything fixed like I want to, and if there's no damage to the internals of the engine, I might want to think about painting it, and doing some cosmetic mods to it, I found some nice flush-mount signals on eBay etc.

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                          #13
                          Definitely a nice ride. If you don't want to mess with bigger mains then try pulling a few diffusers off the canister. Should richen things up. Having to go so high on the needles would make me think about going up a size on the mains. I probably have a set the right size lying around you could have for shipping. Just set the screws for the best and highest idle you can get. If the tips of the screws are in decent shape you'll find a spot where it idles best.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            That is a pretty nice paint scheme-they did not bring the 750 into the US in 84 due to the Harley tariff- and than went to the tariff beating 699cc in 1985. Good luck sorting out your bike- if all else fails on the carbs, pick up a set of used first generation GSXR flatslides. I have used a set of these on my 750 for about 15yrs. Mine are 34mm off the 86 GSXR1100 and bolt right up to the stock 750 intake boots. These are much better than the stock 32mm round slides and will work great with a 4-1 pipe and pods.Good Luck, Ed.
                            1983 GS750ED
                            2001 TL1000S (for sale)

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                              #15
                              Well, I'm a little worried about the valves and the knock. If I can fix those two things, I'm rocking. And if I can, I might jsut go ahead with pods, in which case I definitley need bigger mains. I'll get in touch with you Billy, might be a good thing for me to have kicking around when I finally get to that part.

                              Thanks for everyone's help.

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