has any rr's done this before

[Anonymous]

83 gs750es charges 13.6-14.7 to 4400rpm at 4500rpm junps to 16.1 to 16.7 like some one turns on a switch lights go bright again at 4400rpm lights go back to norm driving me nuts did all the tests
changed rr stater ign switch ran wires from rr dir to bat
thanks darryl

[Billy Ricks]

That's pretty much the way it's supposed to work. Most of the charging takes place at higher rpm. Your number are too high though. You'll boil the battery dry which will in turn short out and take electrical components with it. I burned out a tach and just about every light that was on at the time when it happened to me. Your tester has to have ohm settings to do the test I described in the other thread. You're checking resistance. You do the test with the R/R unplugged and off the bike to make it easier. If the numbers aren't to spec the R/R is shot.

[Anonymous]

thanks again billy the rr that i am talking about is only about 10 min old is it possable that it went bad that fast darryl

[Billy Ricks]

Did you do the resistance test? Do it off the bike so there's no chance anything else is effecting numbers. Make sure you use the right probe on the right terminal.

You can do a couple of things to check the health of your stator even with the bike not running. Check for countinuity between the yellow wires going into the R/R. Put one probe on one yellow then the other on each of the other two. You should get continuity between them all. Do this for each of the yellow wires.

You may be able to detect a short in a stator too by putting the red probe on each of the yellow wires the black grounded on the stator cover. No guarantee you'll pick up every short but you could.

Even a screwed up stator doesn't necessarily take the R/R with it. When my bike was only about 18 months old my stator went out. My first thought was replace the R/R. Still had main fuses blowing after about 15 seconds running. After that I replaced the stator and hadn't had any trouble until about 4 or 5 years ago. Started boiling the battery. This time the R/R I had replaced years ago finally went haywire. Tested the original R/R and it was still within spec. The bad stator hadn't hurt it.

[earlfor]

Not only is it possible, it is probable. I bought an electrex R/R once that new was not to specs. I returned it to electrex, they checked it and it was not to spec for them either. They replaced it with another new one which worked just fine. If the max charge rate from the R/R exceeds 14.9 volts regardless of rpm, it IS defective.
the voltage may surge beyond that momentarily, but not for more than initially about a second. It should then return and maintain 14.9 or less and preferably about 14.7-14.8

Earl

thanks again billy the rr that i am talking about is only about 10 min old is it possable that it went bad that fast darryl

[Anonymous]

thanks Billy Earl i will have to swallow an other $220.00 and see what happens i see that every one on this site talks about Electrex so i would asume i sould order one from them insted of a aftermarket one from a susuki dealer ??? stupid qestion ill let ya know what happens when it comes on mon or tues
i am not totaly with out a ride my buddy has a 81 gs1100es that is show room cond he has spent $6700.00 in the passed year rebuilding it
brought it out 3 weeks ago and low and behold a car stoped fast in front of him at a lite and he fell over and broke his arm $450.00 later in sigs engin gaurds headlite ring ect. he cant ride so i took it away from him and iam breaking the engine in for him till he gets the cast off

thanks again for the help darryl gs750es ont. canada

[Anonymous]

Have also seen the voltage soar when the ground isn't good enough. Should run extra ground wires from the body of the R/R and the R/R ground wire to the battery negative. Have read this many times on this forum but in case you somehow missed it.