Clutch Drag

[Anonymous]

Hello.

I am new to this site as I have just purchased a 1982 GS850GL ($900.00). Great Bike. However after doing my first oil change, I noticed the clutch dosen't seem to want to disengage completly causing the bike to "bang" into first gear and slightly drag while stopping. The oil I used is 10W40 motorcycle oil (Honda). It may be slightly overfilled. Could this cause this problem. Clutch lever adj. is within spec.

Thanks in advance for your replies

[crc1214]

If the bike has been sitting for awhile before you got it (like since last season perhaps), then your clutch plates just might be sticking. First try to let the bike warm up pretty well before you shift. I know sometimes even if my bike has been setting for a week or so and I take off right after starting the bike up, it will be a hard shift into 1st and then I can't shift into second. I just ride it for about 1/4 mile in 1st until the bike is warm enough, then I can shift to second and so on.

If that doesn't seem to help.... I've never had to try it, but a suggestion that I have heard of to fix this is to get the bike up to maybe 10-15mph, and press hard on the back brake while holding in on the clutch.

If this doesn't work you will have to take the clutch cover off and take the plates apart manually. Soak them in oil and swish them around a bit, then put them in EXACTLY! as they were. Also a good time to inspect the plates and springs as well.

Chad
Columbus, OH 1978 GS550E

[nert]

Was it ok prior to the oil change? Is the clutch adjusted properly? Is your idle set properly?
I had/have the same problem with an 82 gs1100glz. But didn' start with an oil change. has been like that. So, i replaced the clutch disks. Same thing, no better. My guess is that its the oil. Would be nice to know what oil was in there prior to the oil change, if indeed you didn't have the problem before the oil change.
Some oils do have differant friction modifiers which can cause discs to grab or slip differently. I bet ATF (automatic transmission fluid) would work nicely for clutches, wouldn't try it in mine tho.
I currently have Dreyden in the crankcase. And it grabs and clunks.
We should request a pole here on the forum and compare oil brands with clutch clunk.

[Jethro]

Everything from the cheapest Valvoline to the priciest Spectro oil and my clutch still clunks.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the input. Like I said, my oil level was a bit on the high side. Bringing the level down seemed to help it. To answer your question, My Idle speed is high (1800 rpm) until I crack the throttle, then it comes back down but then slowly creeps up again. Anyone else experience this?

Thanks
Ken

[nert]

If the throttle cable is free from bind, has slack, and the carb idle lever resides against the idle speed screw, you may have a vacuum leak. Spray around the rubber manifolds that bolt to the head and carb bodies with carb cleaner (some recommend water instead) and see if the idle changes while wetting a particular area. This should pin-point the vacuum leak. Check the vacuum line on the fuel petcock for cracks or breaks. And possibly an internal leak of the petcock itself. NO fuel should come from the valve vacuum nipple when you remove the vacuum line. The vacuum line for the petcock should be smaller diameter and enters the valve at the back. The one closest to the outside of the bike (usually) with a protective spring on it) is the fuel line.

[crc1214]

Do you guys seem to get this clunk only when the clutch lever is out? Mine stops when the lever is pulled in.

Chad
Columbus, OH 1978 GS550E

[nert]

Bike stopped, currently in neutral, pull in the lever, and shift into 1st gear. "CLUNCK" and the bike jumps abit. Doesn't matter if its hot, cold, try to ease it in, jab it in, hold the lever for a long time before engaging. "CLUNK". Doesn't matter if idle speed is as low as 800 or my normal 1000 rpm. Clutch is not dragging. I can easily roll the bike forward or backward, engine idling, first gear engaged and clutch lever pulled in.