Clutch rattle

[Anonymous]

Hello-

I know a lot of posts have been made about clutch rattle, but there's a new noise on my bike that I think is the clucth. If so, no problem.. I'll keep riding it until I can fix it. If not ..

Anyhoo, what does the typical GS clutch rattle sound like ? Is it a "tap tap tap," a "ting ting ting (metallic)," or what?

The noise I'm hearing is a tap tap tap, bordering on knock knock knock and its new, only at idle. Using the screwdriver to the ear method I'm pretty positive it is coming from the clutch, but I want to be sure.

Also, when one drains the oil and takes off the clutch cover, is a new gasket a must, or is it some sort of rubber gasket that is re-usable?

Thanks!

[Anonymous]

One of your cylinders may not be firing correctly. That may also cause that noise. Check your plugs.

I had the same problem and found #3 cylinder not firing. Turned out to be a fouled pilot circuit in the carb. After a good cleaning (again! arrrrggggh) and a carb sync, she sounds like a swiss watch running.

[crc1214]

Well, it's interesting you are having the same sort of clutch noise that I have been having lately. Mine is only when the clutch lever is out, and it stops when I have the lever in. Weird.

Anyhow, I don't know what is causing it, but I can answer the second part of your question. You will most likely need a new gasket. When you take the cover off, a little gasket material will come off with the cover, and a little will stay behind on the engine. Especially if it's the original gasket! Here's some tips, if you don't know already:

I wouldn't even try a screwdriver to take out the screws. If you do, make sure it's a #3 head, don't use anything smaller as it will surely strip the heads. You would have better luck by starting with an impact screwdriver. It will grab better anyway with an intact screw head.

Do your best not to use a screwdriver to pry the cover off. It will take some pulling to get it off, but resist the urge to reach for a screwdriver.

Clean the caked-on gasket material off with a razor blade as best as you can. It's important to get all this crap off.

Cut your own gasket - its simple and a lot cheaper! I think it's also a bit thicker and more rugged than the OEM gaskets. Just go to NAPA or similar, and ask for paper gasket material (assuming your gaskets are paper). Just lay the cover down on the sheet of material, trace with a pen, and cut with a SHARP craft-knife. Try to replicate the original gasket's shape as much as possible. With a simple $2.00 compass, you can even replicate the large hole in the gasket so it can fit around the clutch (which is important). Don't worry about making screw-holes in it. After you get it cut, put some 20W-50 or similar thick oil (engine oil that is) on both sides of the gasket. Then place it on the engine. The viscosity will be enough to hold the gasket in place long enough to get cover back on. Make sure it's a good fit all around, and then put one screw in. Put some force on the cover, and start screwing the screw in. It will go through the gasket material - trust me. That oil you coated the gasket with will help in the future if you have to remove the cover. The gasket won't stick, or will just stick to either the engine or the cover, and you can often times just re-use it then.

By the way, also replace the engine screws. Don't use the old ones. Get some good allen-head bolts, or if you want a semi-OEM look get new screws at a harware shop. I've had good luck at Roush harware (I think that's more of a mid-western chain though). Get the strongest grade you can get. The heads will be bigger, but I only had to use one of the original screws I started with due to a snug fit. Coat them with anti-seize before you put them back in!!!!!!! Good luck.

Chad
Columbus, OH 1978 GS550E

[KEITH KRAUSE]

To me, clutch rattle sounds like someone roller skating on asphalt or concrete. Just a quieter version. I always use a new gasket. They aren't expensive.