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    broke a carb.. need advice..

    well, a couple of weeks ago i was moaning about rebuilding my carbs. today i'm moaning cause i broke one of the arms that holds the pin for the float bowl. i did this by trying to use pliers to put the float bowl pin in.

    after i saw it was broke, i called a salvage yard and had a carb shipped to me. when i got it, i saw that someone had stripped out the air mixture screw. i called the salvage yard and they where nice enough to replace it with another carb. several days later, i received my "newest" carb. when i broke this one down for inspection.... the pilot screw was stripped from a previous person!!!

    i'm tired of dealing with trying to find a replacement so, im back to square one..

    here's my question:

    my arm that broke cracked above center of the pin hole. it seems to me that the pin still fits in the broken side pretty snuggly. could i just leave it if the pin stayed in place?

    or could i use something like JB Weld to put the piece back on? can JB Weld be exposed to gasonline all the time? i know there might be a risk of the welding compound getting on the pin and prevent removal but, it's better than running on 3 carbs.

    again, thanks for reading and helping me out.. it's been a heck of a trying rebuild

    Hall

    #2
    I'd go with this plan. It looks to me that the pin can't "walk" too far in either direction anyhow with the carb bowl in place. Just keep an eye out for flooding.

    There is a user here who repaired just such a break; perhaps he/she could chime in here.




    here's my question:

    my arm that broke cracked above center of the pin hole. it seems to me that the pin still fits in the broken side pretty snuggly. could i just leave it if the pin stayed in place?
    and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
    __________________________________________________ ______________________
    2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!

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      #3
      HELLO, I FIXED A SIMILAR PROBLEM LIKE THAT AT WORK. BROKEN HOLDER FOR THE PIN. I ENDED UP MAKING A WHOLE NEW POST. A 3 HOUR PROJECT, BUT WORKED. I ASKED THE SAME QUESTION ABOUT USING THE ONE PIN, BUT WAS WONDERING IF THE FLOAT WOULD TWIST OR GO OFF TO ONE SIDE AND GET STUCK. MAKES YOU WONDER WHY THEY PRESSED A PIN IN THERE. A SLIP FIT WOULD HAVE BEEN BETTER SEEING HOW THE PIN IS ENCAPSULATED ON THE MODEL I FIXED. IS THERE ALOT OF THESE BROKEN POSTS OUT THERE? MIGHT BE AREA WHICH A REPAIR SERVICE COULD BE DONE.

      Comment


        #4
        What size and style of carburators do you have? I have a couple of spare 34mm cv's, they are from a set off a 81 XS11 that had two broken float ears.

        Comment


          #5
          hello, the ones i fixed were mikuni cv's from the early 80's. sounds like the ones you described. i fixed one carb on the set of four, but all four were together. I didn't know how hard they were to dissasemble and that way i didn't disrupt the sync.

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            #6
            The Carbs..

            their of a 80' gs850. i ended up putting it all back with one of the ears broken. i didn't use JB Weld like i thought. It seemed to me like the pin was in secure. i'll give it a shot and check after a while.

            thanks for you help guys!

            hall

            Comment


              #7
              Carbs if you need them

              If you have the VM26SS Mikuni carbs I can supply you with a good one for the shipping cost.

              Comment


                #8
                i'll check..

                i'll check when i get home. thanks!

                Comment


                  #9
                  broken float pin mount

                  i broke my float pin mount in the same place. i applied jb weld and it has held together very well so far. be sure to let the seam cure for the specified amount of time. good luck.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Broken float pin mount

                    I did the same thing & couldn't believe it since it NEVER happened before. I used liquid weld or something like/same as J.B. WELD & IT WORKS. One thing I did was reverse the float pin so the support was on the good post. To do this you have to increase the hole diameter in that post. I used a small round file so I could do it slowly & keep the pin snug in the hole. Then if your GLUE job fails you have the support of the good post w/tight pin. The tight fitting float bowl won't let the pin back out or the float to shift enough to get off the valve. Either way it will work!!! I've done my own tests to see if it will hold up to gas & it does! I do build up the area around the break & file down where I need to, to get the float bowls on. I have had the bowls off twice & they are still in tact! To prevent this situation in the future I use a small 1/4 drive socket the right height under the post for support (while carbs are seperated & laying on there sides),then use the correct size drift pin to drive the pin out. VERY CARFULLY! TAP,TAP,TAP! Make sure you check any pin for straightness if you broke the post or you will have problems w/alaignment on reassembly. It takes a little time but works & doesn't cost like a new/used carb.

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                      #11
                      I inherited a broken post on which an epoxy repair did not hold. I had it welded by a profession at a cost of $25. I just needed to do a bit of filing to fit the float, and it's as good as new. I haven't had it apart since, but I don't seem to be having any trouble after several years.

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