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Well Im new here and kind of new to working on my own bike. I have an 81 GS650 and I havent ran it for a couple years now, it ran very well when I parked it. I ran it for a short time last year and parked it again. Now I got it running again, idles very well without choke after a warm up. But the problem is when I throttle it up it bogs way down there is no way I can even attempt to ride it because it dies when I give it gas. I am fairly confident that I did a good job cleaning the carbs. And was just wondering if anyone had any advice.
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Sounds like it's running way too rich.
That was happening to my bike too before I adjusted the mix screws.
Good luck, I am positive that the pros will chime in with more advice.
Dm of mD -
I'm also new and curious to see a response. Extra time, gas prices, and the desire to learn were the main reasons for purchasing the motorbike.
Anyways... I'm having the same problem: The bike's been sitting for an extended period of time, running rich (there seems to be a lot of carbon on the plugs and exhaust smells rich) and bogging down badly (terribly when engine is not fully warm). The bike has been ridden about 250 miles so far this year.
I haven't cleaned my carbs. Am nervous about my experience (which amounts to reading a Clymer!). Have been busy building a shop onto my garage and intend to work on the bike extensively this winter.Comment
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If you're afraid of having to re synch them or what not you can always disassemble each carb individually as much as you can w/o seperating the carbs. This isnt the best way to clean your carbs, a full tear down is the best way. Use the carb cleanup on this site and you should be A-Okay. Just dont loose Jets or something 8)
I did this in 2 days (2 hour intervals between working and sleeping) Its really easy. The hardest part is getting those fu**ers out. The bike runs 10x better now.
Not only is running rich bad for your pocket and plugs, but nobody will want to ride with you cause you will smell bad!
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Anytime a bike sits for an extended period and the carbs weren't drained or fuel stabilizer used you can bet the carbs will be a mess when you try to ride it again. Time to bite the bullet and get busy cleaning.Comment
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Umm...I did clean my carbs. And Im confident I did a good job. I was looking for advice on what the bogging problem could be.Comment
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What method of cleaning did you use? I've had carbs that I thought I cleaned up well that still didn't perform right. Until I got after them running wire through the tiny passages they still didn't mix right. Pay special attention to the needle jets. They have tiny holes in them which are there to atomize the fuel.Comment
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I cleaned the vent holes with a wire. I got this bike in 95, I had a Suzuki dealer clean the carbs when I got it. They said they replaced the jets. I havent had any problems running this bike for the time I have had it. But since it sat for 2 years I thought Id clean the carbs. It is just wierd that Id have this problem now. Its acting the same way after I cleaned the carbs as it did before I cleaned them. I replaced the plugs, the old ones were kinda black, there is greyish blue smoke coming out of the pipes. Id like to do this myself but I will probably end up scraping the cash together to pay a shops rediculous charges. Last time it cost me $210. I dont know what it was like before I got it but the whole time Ive had it it hasnt had very much power.Comment
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If you've only cleaned the carbs once and you're sure you got it right then you must be an expert. I had to do it at least four times (over the course of several weeks) to get it right. Also, I also had to learn by trial and error what the best settings were for float height, needle height, mixture screw, etc., etc. Then there were the air leak, air filter and exhaust leak issues. All of these will affect the air/fuel mixture. If your air filter/box is restricting the incoming air too much that could lead to a rich mixture.Comment
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I never said I was an expert, I just said that I am confident I did a good job cleaning them. It doesnt mean I did it right...lol.
I think my air mixture screws are still factory sealed. I just dont want to go drilling something only to find that there isnt a screw under there.
Another thing I found when I started it on my lunch break is that the engine goes up and down when I throttle it, it will rev up and die down.
Any thought on whether lowering the needle will help?Comment
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Okay, upon further tests, If I block the air intake, it runs fine. So its running too lean and not too rich? Any recommendations other than stuffing a t-shirt in the airbox?Comment
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did you change your gaz ?
put new gaz in your clean empty tank and remove the plug to let go the old gaz on your 4 carb if you didn'tComment
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Yeah the tank was empty cuz when I started it last year I left it in Prime...doh.Comment
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edit: just realised this was an older post..
took me 2 tries to clean it proper i thought it was perfect the first time too... now for the mixture screws, on a 81 650gs they are not factory sealed. They are on the engine side on the top. here is a pic from the carb cleanup guide for reference the guy is putting a screwdriver to the screw:
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Bad running from idle to about 3K RPM
I was looking for this post last week when I needed help finding my idle mix screws but that was the time when the forum was down.
I had similar problems on my GS550L that I just bought in June 2004. Took my MC endorsement riding test on August 11th around noon. At the end of my work day (5 PM) the GS wouldn't start for the trip home! Finally after nearly an hour of trying to start it, it started and I made it safely home. This GS sat for 17 years in a garage and another 2 years in a guy's storage shed behind his house. When I got it it had less than 3,000 miles on it. He said the carbs had been cleaned and the oil changed but didn't actually say how long ago. Anyway, the plugs were firing a nice blue spark but never got WET even if I kept the wires disconnected while cranking. That's a dead give-away that it's not getting gas isn't it! Cleaned carbs. Still no wet plugs when I took wires off but I could get her running just a bit. Ran OK revved up but wouldn't run below 3K without the choke on! Cleaned carbs again. This time I knew what to look for, the PILOT JETS. These babies need a tiny stiff wire run all the way through them to clear the gunk out. No amount of carb cleaner in the world was able to cut through it. Kind of guessed where the mixture screws were and carefully drilled the cover plugs out to 1/16" so I could pull the cover plugs. None of my screws would fit until I figured out the eyescrews in a picture hanging kit are way smaller than any sheet metal screws I had or could get from the hardware store. Worked wonderfully. Screwed eyescrews in and just yanked the plugs out with needle-nosed vise grips. Then I screwed down all the idle mixture screws while counting the number of turns until they bottomed out (gently). Then took them all out and made sure things were all clear and clean.
Jumping ahead.
1. Never separated the carbs.
2. Didn't soak in carb cleaner. A professional mechanic recommended using Chemtrol B12 carb cleaner in my gas. I used that as solvent to clean.
3. Used one steel wire strand from wire brush. Heated and pressed wire into toothbrush handle (see the GS carb rebuild series). Cleaned all passages I could and main jets, etc. as in GS carb rebuild series.
4. Second cleaning used ONE STRAND picture hanging stranded wire (about human hair thickness) to push through PILOT JETS that's what was clogged!
5. Reset float level. Both were wrong!
6. Put carbs back on.
7. Roughed in my mixture screws to about 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in.
8. Fired it up. Ran rough but better.
9. Adjusted mixture screws by ear listening to exhaust sound and valve noise!
10. Runs great. Stronger than it was when I got in June 2004!
TimComment
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