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    Clutch basket loose? is this normal?

    So I've finally got the courage to open up the engine to do a number of things, including replacing the burnt out clutch.

    So I'm kind of stuck at the point of removing the clutch hub nut and while messing around with it I've noticed a fair amount of play in the whole assembly. I can wiggle it maybe .5 to 1 mm in and out. Is there normally this much free play or is this a problem?

    I had a couple more questions too. Does anybody know a nifty way of holding the clutch basket still without getting the special tool? I tried buying an oil filter wrench but it was too small.

    and, do I need to coat the clutch plates in oil before installing? I remember hearing about folks doing that but it's not mentioned in the manual, is this neccesary?

    here's a crappy picture of what I'm talking about in case my terminology is wrong. basically it's the inner (red circle) that can wiggle in and out.

    #2
    I'm not sure about the freeplay. It's probably common to GSs but not sure if it's a potential problem.
    When I replaced my clutch many years ago I bought a 37mm (I think) socket and then had a friend weld a crude but effective handle onto one of the old metal clutch plates. It kind of looked like the letter "Y" turned sideways and the upper arms bent 90 degrees. (hope you can picture this very graphic description in your mind) LOL.
    The only tool available at the time was a Suzuki shop tool for only $89.00!!! this was back in the mid eighties... SHEEESH!. But I see now that www.denniskirk.com has a tool for the job for about $29.00. All it is is a Vice Grip with adjustable prongs on it instead of jaws. I've always believed it to be a good idea to let your new plates soak in fresh motor oil for awhile before installing them. It sure can't hurt anyway.

    Comment


      #3
      My bike has alittle freeplay too so it's normal. To removed the nut just put the bike in gear and used use the rear brake or you can also butt the front or rear tire up against the house to keep the bike from moving too.
      1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
      1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
      1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
      1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
      01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

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        #4
        Soak the new clutch plates in oil for 1-2 hours before installing them
        DO not put them in dry. Make sure the clutch hub nut is tight 50 ft lbs(large nut) 8-9 ft lbs on the pressure plate bolts .
        If you can replae them!

        Comment


          #5
          Yep...A little wiggle in there is normal...ever so slight...Yes on soaking your new fibers in oil...watch the back of your basket to make sure you get the oil pump drive in the grooves...It will explain itself as you remove the parts...Be sure to put the sharp edges of your steels in all the same direction...Pay attention when ya take them out.

          BTW an impact gun works good on the hub nut..
          EULC ON

          Comment


            #6
            Awwwww, you guys went and hogged all the good answers.
            And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
            Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

            Comment


              #7
              I had a heavy duty back plate and rivets welded to my basket, and when I installed it there was no wiggle. So is that normal too?

              Comment


                #8
                re: getting the clutch hub nut undone...
                If the motor is still in the frame, just put it in second and stand on the
                back brake while you give it the old heave ho with a breaker bar.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by martin
                  re: getting the clutch hub nut undone...
                  If the motor is still in the frame, just put it in second and stand on the
                  back brake while you give it the old heave ho with a breaker bar.
                  I use a similar method but slip a piece of 2X2 in the spokes of the mag wheel so it holds firm against the swing arm. just be sure it is only against the swing arm.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Last night I put the thing in 2nd and put a piece of wood in the wheel and tried and tried. It seemed to have a kind of rubbery feel to it and I couldn't really get a lot of force into it without a lot of movement. Long story short, I quit trying for fear that I was stressing something I would have thought it would have felt more directly connected but it seemed to have a kind of squish to it. Times like this makes me with I had an impact wrench

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Mookie
                      Last night I put the thing in 2nd and put a piece of wood in the wheel and tried and tried. It seemed to have a kind of rubbery feel to it and I couldn't really get a lot of force into it without a lot of movement. Long story short, I quit trying for fear that I was stressing something I would have thought it would have felt more directly connected but it seemed to have a kind of squish to it. Times like this makes me with I had an impact wrench
                      I think it's the give of the chain you're feeling. I have no idea if you could actually stretch the chain a little under this condition. But if you did, it would just be a little and you could just re-adjust the chain.
                      So be our guinea pig and try again.
                      And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                      Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Look at your swing arm when you try to loosen things up. It may be that the torque is 'wrapping' up. If you see movement, then this is where the rubber band felling is coming from. Anyway, that would be my guess.

                        Give it some muscle - if you don't break it loose we will have to give you some kind of insulting nickname!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          What you are most likely feeling is the rubber cush drive inside the rear wheel assy as you try to remove the clutch nut. Give it another try.
                          1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                          1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                          1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                          1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                          01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by RacingJake
                            What you are most likely feeling is the rubber cush drive inside the rear wheel assy as you try to remove the clutch nut. Give it another try.
                            Yup. I like that idea better than my chain idea.
                            And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                            Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Mookie.
                              I made a holding tool from old steel plate. welded to 14 inch long 1/2 steel bar bent 90 degrees on plate end so to reach down into hub. But GSbill is right on...impact is so much faster, I use that now.TB

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