GS700 slide drilling

[Anonymous]

I started installing a Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit on my GS700E to go with the pod filters that I am putting on to help simplify maintance. But I have to ask this question before I drill the slides. Is it nessasary to drill the slides with this jet kit? I know the directions say to drill them but I heard it was only to quicken throttle response. I am not worried about throttle responce I just do not want the engine to run lean do to the pod filters. Thanks for the help.

Brian

[lhanscom]

Not sure what would happen if you didn't drill the slides, my guess is that it would be inconsistant. The issue with pods on CV type carbs is that it reduces the amount of pressure, and makes the slides want to stay down, the hole is drilled bigger to try and compensate for this difference. You can always try it without drilling first and see what happens, once the pods are on, taking the carbs off to tweak them is a breeze, good thing too, cause you'll be tweaking them a lot most likely, even with the jet kit.

Just wondering, if you're not interested in performance, ie throttle response, why are you getting away from the stock setup? You'll get better top end performance with pods, pipe, and jets, but you'll give yourself a headache tuning it, and you'll probably lose some power down low. I did pods and a Kerker, with the stage 3 kit, and was never able to get the bog around 3k to go away. The top end was much better though. It's all a trade off.

[Anonymous]

The 3k problem never went away for you? Maybe I should just be happy with how the bike is running now then. Can't open it up until its past 4k....

[Anonymous]

Just wondering, if you're not interested in performance, ie throttle response, why are you getting away from the stock setup?

I got rid of the stock set up to make working on the bike much easier. On the GS700 bikes the air box does not come out of the frame unless you remove the engine. It is really a pain to get the carbs of and take the rear suspension off to grease it with that air box in there. It is a really tight fit. I needed a new air filter as the foam one that I had was pretty much falling apart. so I thought I would try the pod thing.

I installed the jet kit without drilling the slides and the bike started right up and idled ok. I turned the mixture screws in until it started to idle rough and then backed them out until it smoothed out again. After I was done I checked them all and two where at 2.5 turns out and 2 were at 3. I set them all to 2.5 turns, due to not drilling slides and probably turning the ones at three too far. I will synch the carbs tomorrow with vacuum gauges and then will have to wait to ride it to tune the rest of carb kit. I can not ride it yet because I am going on tuesday to have new tires put on it. The ones on the bike are cracked really bad. The guy I bought it from said he had not run it three years and parked it because it would not start anymore. It was kind of a basket case but new sprockets and chain, tires, battery, fuel tank lined, petcock rebuilt, squeak removed from the rear suspension, and carbs cleaned and rejetted to go with the pods it is turning out to be a nice bike. With alot more money into it than I wanted. It is the exact bike that was my first though. A guy about two hours away ended up with it and wanted to sell it to get it out of his garage. I just had to buy it.

Sorry for the long post but that is the story about why I wanted to get rid of the stock airbox and alot more info. Thanks for the help.

Brian

[Billy Ricks]

Part of the reason for drilling the slides is to quicken throttle response. But it also seems to me you are also creating a bigger vaccum leak which would cause the slides to not open as much as with the stock hole size. At least with K&N pods you are flowing much more air and causing increased vacuum. The larger holes would keep the slides down more thus leaning out the mixture. You may run too rich if you don't drill the slides.

[Anonymous]

How did you fix the squeeking rear suspension? I've been looking for that ever since I got the bike.

[Anonymous]

Billy, can I just lean out the mixture by lowering the needles (raising the clips) and running a smaller main jet size? I have always installed Factory Pro jet kits before which have never required that you drill the slides, that is why I always used them. I am guessing that with some tweaking to the kit base line settings it should work. At least that is what I am hoping. I am freaked about drilling those slides.

[Anonymous]

How did you fix the squeeking rear suspension? I've been looking for that ever since I got the bike.

I completely removed the back half of the bike and cleaned and greased every bearing. It is not that bad of a job especially having that airbox out of there. I was lucky and all of the bearings were fine but where alittle dry and I believe that the squeak was coming from the ball in the lower shock mount which was frozen and would not move. Some penetrating oil and alot of moving it and grease I got it to move smooth and free again. I definately would recommend greasing the rear suspension if it has never been done to the bike before. Mine is smooth as butter now.

[Billy Ricks]

bg, drilling the slides isn't a big deal. The holes are at an angle so just let the bit take the course of least resistance. It's easier to drill the holes instead of having to keep fooling with the jetting and maybe never getting it just right.

[Anonymous]

Billy should I clamp them loosely in a vise with some wood to protect them or just hold them in one hand and the drill in the other? I do not know why this has me so worried but it just does. Thanks for the help and encouragement. I think that you are right. Now that I have the bike running I think I will take the carbs back out and drill the slides. I was really worried as the bike had not run before the carb work that i did. At least now I got it to idle.

Brian

[Anonymous]

Billy if you do not mind me asking you on this topic what year GSXR ehaust did you mount up to your GS700. After I get every thing sorted on the bike the next swap will be the exhaust. I plan on keeping the bike for a long time and original exhaust is not as pretty as it once was. The last owner had it tip over in his garage. The only thing damaged was some scratches in the exhaust. I let her go once and now that I have her back I am not letting it go again. So I am trying to make it as nice as possible.

[Billy Ricks]

I would just hold the slides in my hand and drill slowly. The pipe came off of a '90 or so GSXR750. As long as you don't get anything beyond a '92 you should be OK. An 1100 pipe might even work better. They may be a little longer between the ports and the pan. Mine fits really close up under the pan.

[Anonymous]

Well I did it. I pulled the carbs this morning and drilled the slides. When I got everything back together and started the bike it idled a little rough. I turned the mixture screws back out to 3 turns right where dynojet recommended they be an the idle smoothed out. I can't wait to be able to ride the bike and see how it runs. I have not ridden it in six years. I am glad it is back in the garage and running again. I never should have sold it. Thanks for all of the help I am sure when I get the tires and start to dial in the carbs I will have some more questions.

Brian