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    POR-15 help needed!

    I just purchased the 'motorcycle fuel tank repair kit' from Por -15.
    Followed the directions to a 'T',and all was going well until I finished using the'metal ready' component of the kit.This is the product that claims to effectively eliminate rust,and provide 'a zinc phosphate coating' designed to help the bonding of the sealer.
    Anyway,I sloshed this stuff around for the requisite 30 minutes,rinsed it all out thoroughly with water,only to have an orange powdery substance appear all over the inside of my tank! Rust! Still!
    Anyone have any experience with this brand? I want to believe I did something wrong,as I've heard nothing but good things about the product in question,but I'm having doubts.

    Paul.

    #2
    Paul did you blow dry the tank after the metal ready? It is not uncommon to have a small amount of flash rust right after this, but it shouldn't be a whole lot. How long did it sit after the metal ready? I used the Por-15 in my tank with no problems at all. If the tank has set for any amount of time you will need to reuse the metal ready, then as soon as you rinse it out get air cirulating through it to dry it as fast as possible, I used a hair dryer on low and compressed air. As soon as it is dry use the Por-15 immediatly this should seal any flash rust, and keep it from oxidizing any further.

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Daniel,
      I did use a hair dryer right after I rinsed the tank,to help 'get it started' for drying-low temp. I probably used the drier for 5 minutes,then stopped.I set the tank in front of a window with a slight breeze,and came back in 5 min.
      Sounds like a hokey way to go about things.I mean,if there is an 'anti-oxidant film' that is on after rinsing,it really shouldn't matter how long long you leave the tank to dry before adding the sealer-you've probably got rust going on underneath the sealant in your tank,buddy boy!
      I'm going to contact por (poor!) -15 tomorrow and see what they say.
      Thanks for the insight,I'll probably end up re-doing it- I'm glad I saved some of that junk!

      Paul.

      Comment


        #4
        Paul there is no anti oxident after using the metal ready. It is an acid wash to prepare the metal for the anti oxident. If you had done as the instrutions said and dried the tank thourghly with air and immediatly used the por-15 you would not have had anything more then flash rust which cannot be prvented until you get the por-15 on it. Anytime bare metal which has just been prepared for any type of paint with an acid wash will start oxidizing in seconds. The por-15 stops all oxidation and seals it against further oxidation.

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          #5
          I had a little bit of flash rust, but it doesn't matter.
          If you seal it fairly quick after the acid wash the POR-15
          will adhere even with the small amount of rust.

          POR-15 is a great product, I've used it on 2 tanks
          and not had a problem with it.

          Mo

          Comment


            #6
            Well, I guess I'm convinced! Two thumbs up from guys who've used the product means I'll have to put aside my skepticism.
            What I'll do tonight is give the tank a quick shot of metal-ready (more for my peace of mind than anything), air dry it quickly,then go straight to the sealant.
            Thanks for the input,Daniel and Mo, you've put me at ease;I'll tell you,when I saw that fine coat of oxidation,well the old 'frustration-o-meter' went slightly into the red zone!
            I'll let you know how it goes.
            Thanks again!
            Paul.

            Comment


              #7
              Make sure you use enough time so it is throughly dry. Any seams in the tank will be harder to dry. I dried mine for 24 hours and had only a slight surface residue. I used a computer cooling fan taped over the fuel filler hole and it worked great. Also I used short 6mm set screws in the fuel tap holes when applying the sealer and just removed them when it was cured. This gave me a nice flat surface to seal with duct tape and kept the sealer out of the threads. Good Luck!! Oh yeah, I also used a #9.5 rubber stopper in the fuel gauge hole, this way it is easily removed so you can inspect the inside of the tank easier. You can get them at any wine or beer craft shop.
              '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/

              Comment


                #8
                Handy tips,Sandy,thanks.I've been using aluminum foil,with duct tape over it ,to seal up all holes. BTW,I was planning on letting the sealant settle into the threads for the petcock and fuel sensor,thinking this willjust help seal the screwa a little bit. Right/wrong?

                Paul.

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                  #9
                  I guess you could do that because the POR-15 probably won't go completely hard in the fuel petcock holes. The holes on my 79 GS1000N fuel sender didn't actually go right threw into the tank though. Won't hurt either way.
                  '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Right on!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Cured POR-15 is a real pain to get out of the threads for the petcock bolts. You might want to carefully apply some vaseline to the threads to keep the POR-15 from adhering. Otherwise it's a real hassle to screw the bolts in and you run the risk of cross threading if you don't clean the threads with a tap first.

                      Jeff

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Point taken,Jeff,thanks.
                        Paul.

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