please help me!!!

[Anonymous]

so what else might be wrong w/ it?

[joe.d]

get your self a manual, is the first step.....its a learning curve for sure, but when you get things running youll be happy
JUst remeber with out fuel it wont run....without spark it wont run

get out there MR

[Anonymous]

but it has spark

[Anonymous]

but it has spark

true very true I believe very strongly that your problems lie within your carbs still and that you need to go through them with a fine toothed comb, let them soak in some carb dip for a couple of days, use some very fine wire or a torch cleaner for probing all the passages, set all needle assemblies and floats to the factory specs, use new gaskets and o-rings, then take the bike to a proficient shop for a good syncronization.

[Anonymous]

yeah i think thats what i am going to have to do!i am buying the rebuild kits for all four carbs friday!$80.00 for all for of them($20.00 a carb!)

[Anonymous]

thats a good buy mine set me back $120

[Anonymous]

yeah and mine are also from the suzuki dealer

[Anonymous]

I think it's a red switch at least it is on mine and it's on the right hand controls. it should be set to RUN If it's anything like mine it would be in the down postion.

Mine won't start without the clutch pulled in but it won't turn the starter either. I get nothing at all

Spark, fuel and compression is what you need to start. Make sure you have all three.

I'd say if it runs with starter fluid it has to be fuel because the other two obvioiusly worked. Starter fluid won't make up for spark or compression.

Check those lines and make sure everything flows from the tank to the fuel intlet. Are you sure it's hooked up to the fuel inlet?
Run a line from the fuel tank to a gas can see if flows good for more then a few seconds. Try it in all positions on the petcock.

There should a pretty good flow coming out of it...No dribbles.

Is there a fuel filter make sure it flows, I just worked on one that was backwards.(not a suzuki.) Makes no sense to me but when I turned it around it flowed and ran after that. Werid.

Most of all don't panic or let yourself get too frustraited take a break and think about it. I'm still trying to get that one right..,hahahaha Sometimes I do and other times I don't and always wished I had.


l

[Anonymous]

it already is in the run position

[Anonymous]

The suzuki petcock has three positions, run, prime and reserve. In the run and ,depending on year, reserve positons it will only deliver fuel when engine vacuum is applied. Prime setting allows gravity flow to the carbs.
Set the petcock to prime or p and let the bike set for about five minutes. Try starting it. If it still won't run, crack a bowl drain(a small bolt on the bottom of the float bowl on each carb) and see if gas is in the float bowls.
If gas runs out, your problem is in the carbs, probably plugged jets. If no gas runs out then you should look at the petcock, fuel filter or fuel lines for blockages. Don't forget to check the tank itself, as foreign debris or rust flakes can block the fuel from flowing to the petcock.

[Anonymous]

ok!i checked the carb bowls and they are getting fuel but it still wont start and it also has strong spark and the kill switch is on run position.so what else could it be?

[Anonymous]

OK, well let's look at what we know. It'll start on starting fluid, so the timing and dwell angle on the points is at least close enough to rule that out for now (I'm going on memeory here, but I belive your bike has points). You're getting fuel to the float bowls, so the petcock and fuel lines are probably working. You found water in the float bowls which probably means the bike was laid up with gas in the tank and withour a fuel preservative like Stabil.
What this means is that the carbs are probably not delivering fuel internally. Gasoline will go stale if left, and will also attract water as you found. Also, and possibly the cause of your problem it will form a shellac-like deposit in the carbs, especcially in the jets and air passages that will block fuel flow. Also, the corrosion from the water will introduce scale into the fuel also blocking small passages.
So, things to try. While the carbs are on the bike, make sure the choke is actually working when you pull the knob. If you have the airbox off you can also try hand choking the engine while you crank it over.
Try starting it with the gas cap off, as the vent in the cap can clog, causing a vacuum in the tank. Out there, but I've seen it.
Be certain that the vaccum and fuel lines to the petcock are not reversed.
Check the rubber boots that hold the carbs to the engine. If you have air leaks here air will bypass the carbs thus no fuel is drawn from the jets.
After that, the carbs come off, and you will need a manual (the best $20 you can spend on the bike anyway).
Soak the carbs overnight in carb cleaner then use fine wire and compressed air if possible to clean the jets and air passages in the carb. Be careful with the jets, as they are brass and can be damged while you're poking around in them. Be careful on re-assembly not to interchange the jets. The idle and primary can be interchanged, and that won't work.
Here's where you need the manual and a caliper or machinist's rule. Seth the float heights.
Make certain that the slides move freely and the needles are at the correct adjustment and not bent or damaged.
Most of this won't require a rebuild kit if your gaskets are ok. Re-assemble,check your cables and linkages, charge your battery and try again.
Oh, and I should have said this before. You are going to have gas everywhere while you do some of this, so no smoking and watch for sparks. I burned a sweet honda 360 to the ground this way. Have a fire extinguisher handy.
If you haven't already, change the oil and filter when you get it running and about 500 miles later. The old oil will do many of the bad things that stale gas will.

[Anonymous]

Sorry, forgot one thing. Check the carb vent tubes. These keep the float bowl from forming a vacuum, and if they are clogged or kinked no fuel will flow from the carbs.
Good luck with this bike. Old bikes can be frustrating at times, but they are a lot of fun. Just remember, anything that is wrong with a machine can be fixed.

[Anonymous]

Forgive me for being blunt, but the first thing you need when working on a bike is patience. Bikes are complex machines, and when tuning them, especially the carbs, they'll require a lot of patience. Grab yourself a soda for sippin' and be prepared to do a little work, ask a questions, wait for an answer, and repeat. In the mean time, do a chore, ponder the universe or smoke a cigar (not around the gas-impregnated carbs, obviously).

Second, you need a service manual. The Haynes or Clymer manuals are good enough. It's kinda hit-and-miss. My 450 Clymer is kinda pathetic because it tries to cover 25 different cheap bikes, but my 1100 Clymer is excellent, and only covers 4 primo bikes. Anyway, get one. It'll cost something like $20.

We at GSR are glad to help you out. Best of luck and welcome to the forum!

Michael

[Anonymous]

Oh, and I should have said this before. You are going to have gas everywhere while you do some of this, so no smoking and watch for sparks. I burned a sweet honda 360 to the ground this way. Have a fire extinguisher handy.

Are we allowed to laugh at that?

I guess I shouldn't be the one to laugh though. I had a petcock that leaked through the vacuum diaphragm, and I had the brilliance to pull the vacuum tube (full of leaked gas) off a hot bike, spilling gas all over the hot exhaust pipes (not smart). The gas just boiled off but for sure it was damn close to exploding. ](*,)

Michael