Wiring question

[Anonymous]

I am building a custom 83 750ES. My frame will be mediablasted tomorrow and the motor is also being rebuilt. My question goes to wiring. The bike was road raced prior to my acquiring of it and teh wiring was a nightmare! I am basicly starting from scratch. I want to know if there is a minimalist way to wire a bike. I won't need blinkers. I will need dash lights, headlight, tailight, starter of course. Is there a kit a person can buy to do this. Painless wiring company makes kits for cars, hot rods and such, does anyone know of a company that does the same for bikes?

Thanks!
Mike

[Anonymous]

Any help would be appreciated!!

Thanks again!
Mike

[Anonymous]

I doubt very much that there is a kit available for these bikes. A wiring diagram and some wire should be all you need. And of course.....the time. I would imagine its rather straight forward.

[Anonymous]

hmm

Dont know about kits to wire a bike, but as for a minimalist way to wire a bike....
*Deep breath*.....
I've made a few looms from scratch in the past, and its not that bad if you sit down and think a bit about it first. First make sure you have lots of wire, you will use a LOT of wire in a loom, then when your done , something to bind your masterpiece in, the spiral wrap (non adhesive) you can buy from electronics places is good, with just a tiny slip of heatsink at each end to secure it. If your being really minimilist, trailer wire can be bought, with 7 or 9 wires inside a nice black plastic sheat, great for running down the length of the bike. I even made a few looms for friends in wire all the same colour, colour code didnt matter to me since I built it I was thinking circuits rather than colours..
When it comes to the bike itself, try to get your thinking into a sort of modular way, ok, first module power comes from the battery through the ignition switch, the output for this will be the main live feed. This feed then needs to go to various places, ie the places that need power with the ignition on.
I run a feed to the light switch, then I consider that to be done and dusted, then thinking what else needs a live, theres horn, brake light switch live, idiot lights (neutral indicator/ oil pressure etc), and ignition, this usually wires up via the engine kill switch, so again, I wire to that and treat it as a sub assembly. Once Ive got all the main things hooked in, I start to connect up the sub assembly's.
ie for the lights, output from the light switch goes to the tail light, plus the left hand switch gear (assuming light switch on right hand switch gear), which takes the feed as a input, and splits it to high/low beam. If you want parking, you can either wire them on permanently to the tail light feed, or hook up the original output from the right hand switch gear. It depends on what you are after, I only wire pilot lamps in
so if my main beam blows, ive got *just* enough for others to see me at night.
For a brake light, I run the live feed down to the brake light switch in series with the feed to the stop bulb in the rear light cluster, thats all the switch does, it makes the contact when you PULL the switch out (its a normally open switch).
Horn is easy, but depends on how the switchgear is wired, if it just grounds out the horn wire, I just hook the switched live to it, and take ternimal 2 off to the horn button, but if it doesnt you have to iprovise..
Charging circuit etc, well, you just have to sit and think about it, they need 3 connections to the main loom, one wire to sense battery status (this will be in the switched live section) , one wire to feed power to the battery direct (pre switch) and a ground wire, the rest just hook up to the output of the stator.
Neutral indicator is just a gnd switch too, treat it like the simple horn, switched live up to the clocks, from the clocks to the switch on the motor then to earth. Same deal with the oil pressure light. You will probally find the starter motor solenoid working on the same principle as the horn circuits too.
Finally I solder all my joins after wire wrapping connectors together, I tape the joins up with SELF AMALGAMATING TAPE, its magic stuff, you stretch it to twice its normal length and it releases chemicals so that when it touches itself, it "welds" into one lump.
When I need to use connectors (to interface to oem components, or if i want to remove a section of the loom) I have some RATCHET crimping pliers, the pliers that you see in most shops that just look like big flat pliers are pants, and tend to make bad crimps, the ratchet pliers seem to have some sort of torque thing in them that makes a perfect crimp every time, ever see some replacement crimped on connectors that seemed really really solid? chances are they were done with ratchet crimpers. And finally I have some nice tiewrap blocks that I attach to the frame, then I use zip ties to tie the
loom to these.
I usually fire up my loom on a 12 psu, with overload protection and current limiting crowbar on it, so if I have made a mistake somewhere, its not goodnight vienna to the loom, you may find using a battery charger instead of the battery achieves the same effect. Theres a lot of power in a lead acid battery and it WILL damage things if you get it wrong. A multimeter will be a godsend in trouble shooting, but it will be more usefull because you will understand exactly how every circuit is supposed to work!
My advice at this point would be, take a step back and see if what I have been saying makes sense, and see if you can figure out the blanks (ignition circuits etc), if you can, give it a go but dont forget to incorporate nice fuses into the circuits, if it doesnt make sense, go find a stock loom and trim the turn signal wiring out of it.
Hope this helps rather than confuses you more...