You ask about oil and you get a million answers, are bikes are very demanding as far as the engine oil goes, the temps and demands far exceed what water cooled engine requirements are, there for a good oil is a must, the better the anti foaming, anti rust agents and additives that help suspend particules and acids, as well as ones that increase shear strengh which are a must in gear oil, all add to the cost of the basic oil product witch would be crap to our bikes with out them, yes some are way over priced, but the cheap no name products are usally supplied by the same refiner, but lack additves that enhance the oils property, hence the cheap price, you can buy good oil at the discount places, and save but go by the ratings on the oil its self, and not price, as far as being cheap bikes to fix, well some people have never done a crank up repair so don't really know those costs, and for those throwing out mileage figures try 25 bikes and 43 years of racing and riding well over a million miles, my 65 BSA witch I have had 30+ years lasts much longer between rebuilds with the newer oils than what was available 30 years ago, flame war HeHeHe
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Anonymous
oily
You ask about oil and you get a million answers, are bikes are very demanding as far as the engine oil goes, the temps and demands far exceed what water cooled engine requirements are, there for a good oil is a must, the better the anti foaming, anti rust agents and additives that help suspend particules and acids, as well as ones that increase shear strengh which are a must in gear oil, all add to the cost of the basic oil product witch would be crap to our bikes with out them, yes some are way over priced, but the cheap no name products are usally supplied by the same refiner, but lack additves that enhance the oils property, hence the cheap price, you can buy good oil at the discount places, and save but go by the ratings on the oil its self, and not price, as far as being cheap bikes to fix, well some people have never done a crank up repair so don't really know those costs, and for those throwing out mileage figures try 25 bikes and 43 years of racing and riding well over a million miles, my 65 BSA witch I have had 30+ years lasts much longer between rebuilds with the newer oils than what was available 30 years ago, flame war HeHeHe
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Anonymous
Originally posted by Wingnut
Did you put the drain plug back in??????????????
It hasn't leaked since. i think it had to do with a pressure change after i topped off the oil.
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redliner1973
Possibly so, but I think what he was referring to was the side-mounted inspection (read: remove-so-you-don't-overfill-the-Gearbox screw) screw that is to be removed when refilling the gearbox. If you forgot to replace that after filling it up, it will blow all over the place when running!!
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saaz
My experince with normal vs synthetic diff oil is in my car, not a bike, but here goes.
I have a V8, which tests the diff a bit. It developed a clunk, quite bad when reversing..very mechanical. I suspect the diff oil was not changed as often as it should have been by the previous owner(s).
Good quality normal oil made no difference. Finally I used a more expensive synthetic oil..problem solved! It does not clunk and carry on when it gets hot, very noticeably so. It is not as good as new, has a little play in it, but at 320,000kms what do you expect.
In normal use I would not expect to feel any difference between synthetic and normal diff oil. If you change the normal stuff when you should or before, you will probably have no issues. But the syntheic does seem to be better.
Eveyone is right in a fashion.
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