high idle after carb synch?

[Anonymous]

I have a suspi cion that you're kidding but in case not, the big idle adjustment screw is the adjuster for #3. It will affect all the others though, so you should start there.

[robinjo]

I have a suspi cion that you're kidding but in case not, the big idle adjustment screw is the adjuster for #3. It will affect all the others though, so you should start there.

The big idle screw is turned all the way out to the point it is not touching the carb anymore.

[earlfor]

Turn the vacuum up on 1,2 and 4 to match 3. That will give you a richer mixture and you will then need to turn in the idle adjust to maintain idle.
You're too lean on 1,2 and 4. :-)

Earl

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#3 doesn't have a adjust screw... what to do?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Yes. That's the way to do it. If you still have problems, you'll have to do a manual synch per your manual and start over.

[earlfor]

Robinjo, increasing the vacuum on 1,2 and 4 closes the throttle plates and is going to cause those carbs to flow a richer mixture. RPM will decrease most likely to the point of the engine dieing, so you will need to turn in the idle adjustment screw to maintain a normal idle rpm.

Earl

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Robinjo, increasing the vacuum on 1,2 and 4 closes the throttle plates and is going to cause those carbs to flow a richer mixture. RPM will decrease most likely to the point of the engine dieing, so you will need to turn in the idle adjustment screw to maintain a normal idle rpm.

Earl

I second that. Your bike is idling too high even without the idle screw making contact, simply because of the excessive vacuum on #3.
This happens when people try to raise lower levels to match higher levels at the beginning of the synch. Before you know it, you're completely off the idle adjuster screw. You should always lower the higher levels to match the lower ones, then fine tune.