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Where to start? I've read hundreds of posts, and with all the information, I've concluded my problem could be carbs, plugs, battery, coils, wires, plug caps, igniter, etc. So, rather than throw all the parts at the bike, I'll try a post before taking it to a shop.
I have an '83 GS550L. It all started when stalling on me (twice) when I tried to accelerate from a stop at an intersection. I pushed it over to the side walk and it still would not start (choke on or off). I waited about 10 minutes. Only with choke on, it started barely. Initially acted as if flooded, then ran ok after a few minutes. I continued on to work. It rode fine for a few more days. Then one morning, I started to head to work, and it had no power in mid to high range. At about 3k rpms and up, it would just bog down. Also, I noticed a little bit of backfire (sounded like right side, but couldn't tell for sure). It could gain some speed on flat stretches, but going up a hill was painful. So, thought maybe it was fuel/air delivery prob (running too rich?). Cleaned carbs (didn't use compressed air or dip them). Put them in. Backfire much worse (definitely out both sides!). Also, I notice pipes 1&4 were turning a little dark (more tan color, not blue - burning?). Gained a little power (could make it up hill without going into 2nd gear). And, when just sitting, revving up to 3k shows the symptoms. So, maybe I didn't get the carbs cleaned quite right. Took them out, dipped them, blew air through them. Check diaphragms - they appear okay. Put back in, same. Changed plugs, same. New air filter, same. Thought maybe it was air leak between engine and carbs. Sprayed w/WD40, no change in idle while spraying. Took out carbs again. Dipped and blew air. Floats were just a hair low. Adjusted them to spec. Still same exact issue. Took apart the petcock. It was clean, and vacuum diaphragm was alright. Getting good fuel flow. Vacuum hose and fuel lines okay. Also tried running on Prime, and Reserve. Same. Took apart and cleaned gas cap. Vent is clean and okay. So then I moved on to check the coils. Primary was around 3-4ohms. Checked secondary, between 2&3 was high (above 50k). Took off plug caps. #3 cap was over 20k. Ah hah! Took out resistor, cut a screw and inserted it to bypass resistor. Put back on, no change! Still backfires and no power when accelerating. It can idle great all day though. I thought maybe carbs were out of sync/balance. Made sure mixture screws were 3.5 turns out (orig location). Same. But from what I've read, that affects idle and low range mostly (right?). I definitely have NO high range. Well, I thought I should check to see what voltage I get at the battery when bike is running. When I move the multimeter within a few feet of the battery area, the meter's LCD goes nuts. I back away, everything okay. So that's where I am. Has anyone ever seen a voltmeter go ape when positioned near the battery when it's running? Could it be because I took the resistor out of the plug cap and that is creating the interference? I'd rather not spend $400-500 (in labor) just to have someone find the problem, nor do I want to spend the same amount just throwing parts at it. Who would? Wife isn't thrilled with all the time I'm putting in, and I have to do it in the apt complex parking lot... I think tonight I will check voltage to coils with ignition on and with bike running (if meter doesn't go crazy). Then I'll check the igniter with bike not running to see what I get. After that, I will want to give up. I can't tell exactly which cyclinder(s) are backfiring, but I can hear it out both exhaust pipes. I called a shop near by, can't get to it for 2 weeks (they said that 2 weeks ago too!). Called another, he said that bike isn't worth much and wondered how much I was willing to spend. I just want to get it running, but don't want someone replacing coils, igniter, battery, etc when the truth of the matter is that it was just 1 of those. All help is appreciated!!
I have an '83 GS550L. It all started when stalling on me (twice) when I tried to accelerate from a stop at an intersection. I pushed it over to the side walk and it still would not start (choke on or off). I waited about 10 minutes. Only with choke on, it started barely. Initially acted as if flooded, then ran ok after a few minutes. I continued on to work. It rode fine for a few more days. Then one morning, I started to head to work, and it had no power in mid to high range. At about 3k rpms and up, it would just bog down. Also, I noticed a little bit of backfire (sounded like right side, but couldn't tell for sure). It could gain some speed on flat stretches, but going up a hill was painful. So, thought maybe it was fuel/air delivery prob (running too rich?). Cleaned carbs (didn't use compressed air or dip them). Put them in. Backfire much worse (definitely out both sides!). Also, I notice pipes 1&4 were turning a little dark (more tan color, not blue - burning?). Gained a little power (could make it up hill without going into 2nd gear). And, when just sitting, revving up to 3k shows the symptoms. So, maybe I didn't get the carbs cleaned quite right. Took them out, dipped them, blew air through them. Check diaphragms - they appear okay. Put back in, same. Changed plugs, same. New air filter, same. Thought maybe it was air leak between engine and carbs. Sprayed w/WD40, no change in idle while spraying. Took out carbs again. Dipped and blew air. Floats were just a hair low. Adjusted them to spec. Still same exact issue. Took apart the petcock. It was clean, and vacuum diaphragm was alright. Getting good fuel flow. Vacuum hose and fuel lines okay. Also tried running on Prime, and Reserve. Same. Took apart and cleaned gas cap. Vent is clean and okay. So then I moved on to check the coils. Primary was around 3-4ohms. Checked secondary, between 2&3 was high (above 50k). Took off plug caps. #3 cap was over 20k. Ah hah! Took out resistor, cut a screw and inserted it to bypass resistor. Put back on, no change! Still backfires and no power when accelerating. It can idle great all day though. I thought maybe carbs were out of sync/balance. Made sure mixture screws were 3.5 turns out (orig location). Same. But from what I've read, that affects idle and low range mostly (right?). I definitely have NO high range. Well, I thought I should check to see what voltage I get at the battery when bike is running. When I move the multimeter within a few feet of the battery area, the meter's LCD goes nuts. I back away, everything okay. So that's where I am. Has anyone ever seen a voltmeter go ape when positioned near the battery when it's running? Could it be because I took the resistor out of the plug cap and that is creating the interference? I'd rather not spend $400-500 (in labor) just to have someone find the problem, nor do I want to spend the same amount just throwing parts at it. Who would? Wife isn't thrilled with all the time I'm putting in, and I have to do it in the apt complex parking lot... I think tonight I will check voltage to coils with ignition on and with bike running (if meter doesn't go crazy). Then I'll check the igniter with bike not running to see what I get. After that, I will want to give up. I can't tell exactly which cyclinder(s) are backfiring, but I can hear it out both exhaust pipes. I called a shop near by, can't get to it for 2 weeks (they said that 2 weeks ago too!). Called another, he said that bike isn't worth much and wondered how much I was willing to spend. I just want to get it running, but don't want someone replacing coils, igniter, battery, etc when the truth of the matter is that it was just 1 of those. All help is appreciated!!
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