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manometer (carb sync tool)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Does anyone have one of these manometer sets ("carb sync tool")?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/c-10111/s-10101/p-234595/mediaCode-ZX/appId-58665

I13122.gif;pvc3fe7dc2a38a8ece


I read that the adapters that plug into the head are 5mm threads on the manometer, but the GS heads have 4mm holes. I'm thinking I could run the manometer through a 4mm die to trim the threads down. The big question is, is there enough material, and is this the right thing to do?

Or can anyone think of a cheap and effective adapter to use without mangling the manometer? I guess I could drill a hole through a 4mm bolt for the engine head, and epoxy it to a 5mm nut for the manometer. But how big do I make the hole and how do you drill a small hole through a 4mm bolt without breaking a drill bit? Mmmmm.. Grr... mmmmm... :?: Whaddya think?

Michael
 
Michael, I have a set of those vacume gauges, and I would strongly recomend getting something a bit better. The needles bounce so much that it is almost imposible to accuratly sync the carbs. But then I can't sync the carbs with a good manometer the Carb Tune II :oops: . The adapters that come with those gauges fit the vacume ports on the GS's, but they are very cheaply made. I broke the threads off inside the intake houseing the very first time I used them. The tube was so long that it was hitting the cluctch leaver, when I pulled the clutch in to start the bike it pushed against it and broke it. Luckily I was able to get the threads out with a small easy out. Like I said invest in something a little better quality, like one of the less expensive mercury stixs. Well that's my $.02 anyway. *Edit* Here is a link to dennis kirk's web page the home mechanics one is about $10 cheaper then the ones from JCWhitney. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...in&productId=p28274&catId=418&leafCatId=41804
 
I have that set from Kirk. I like it. The only difference between the home and the shop version is the home version has a plastic frame.

I prefer the mercury column type because I think it is much easier to see the carbs in relation to each other, and it's easier to read a bouncing mercury column than a dancing needle (IMHO).

Guder
 
Guder said:
I have that set from Kirk. I like it. The only difference between the home and the shop version is the home version has a plastic frame.

I prefer the mercury column type because I think it is much easier to see the carbs in relation to each other, and it's easier to read a bouncing mercury column than a dancing needle (IMHO).

Guder
Click to expand...

That one is a complete set, mercury and all?

Michael
 
Everything is there, except a hook to hang it from.

The adapters are very cheap, just threaded copper tube with a nut and o-ring, but they work well enough if you are carefull not to snap them off. To be honest, I haven't used it on my GS yet, so I don't know if they are the right size for a Suzuki.

Guder
 
I have a set of vacuum synch guages identical to those.

The supplied adapters fit the vacuum ports on my bike. I don't see how the adapters were long enough to interfere with a clutch lever - possibly if your bars were at full-lock left, and you put the longest adapter in the outside carb on the left???

Anyways, the longer adapters go on the inside carbs, the shorter adapters go on the outside carbs. I've also seen permanent vacuum nipples made to stay in your vacuum ports for sale in several catalogs - they're just plugged with vacuum caps for normal operation.

It took me about 2 hours to figure out what I was doing with the vacuum guages (part of that was due to my bike not wanting to idle, because I forgot to cap the petcock vacuum line when I took off the tank....). Just look at the top and bottom of the needle when it bounces - tune the other carbs to where the tops and bottoms of the needle bounce match up. You'll see whether they're in synch or not when you rev up around 5K - you should see a steady needle, with the needles on all four guages synchronized.

Remember to re-tighten your adapters after the bike heats up - they'll become loose as they heat up, leaving room for extra air to get into your vacuum ports.

Overall, I like the guages (mine are mounted to a metal plate that you tie-wrap between your mirrors while you're using them). I just wish I'd have bought the carb adjust tool at the same time!!!!

(Edit: Be advised that the colored bands and text on the guage faces are for automotive applications and have no bearing on motorcycles. Items like "retarded valve timing" and "vacuum leak" are set for cars where the amount of vacuum pressure is important. Bike carbs are tuned to each other, and the amount of relative vacuum doesn't matter. At least, that's what the instructions that came with my guages said... :wink: )

-Q!
 
The other problem with the dial type gauges is, are they all calibrated exactly the same? I would bet not. The glycol dampend gauges that you can calibrate are the best, until you see the price!! The mercury sticks are the best for the money. If you buy them new you will have to enlarge the hole in the bottle of mercury to get it to pour into the little tank, and it's easier to pour it into the top(remove the rubber hose holder) than the vent hole as the insructions say. They also come with both sizes of adapters for the carbs. Don't forget the restrictors that go into the top of the pipes as they even out the pulse and make it easy to get a accurate reading. And BE CAREFULL with the mercury, it's nasty stuff.
 
I realize youre quoting the instructions you received and are not the author.
However, that is absolutely, dead, flaming WRONG. It does matter greatly.

Earl

QuaiChangKane said:
Bike carbs are tuned to each other, and the amount of relative vacuum doesn't matter. At least, that's what the instructions that came with my guages said... :wink: )

-Q!
Click to expand...
 
Manometer

Manometer

Here's an idea that I got from a Kawasaki mechanic.Get youself four hypodermic needles (NOT FROM THE STREET OBVIOUSLY!!!),possibly from a medical suppliers.I got mine from a now defunct bike store on this side of the pond.Fit them to the ends of the guage hoses and push them into the carb rubbers.On removal the holes seal by themselves if your rubbers are in good nick,if you're worried use a spot of superglue to seal.To calibrate push all four into the same rubber,set the tickover at the required RPM and adjust the guages,then balance the carbs at the same RPM you calibrated at.Works for me,and seemingly this is Kawasaki shop practice. :D 8)
 
Re: Manometer

Re: Manometer

Great idea! I never would have thought of that one. :-)

Earl


Dougie said:
Here's an idea that I got from a Kawasaki mechanic.Get youself four hypodermic needles (NOT FROM THE STREET OBVIOUSLY!!!),possibly from a medical suppliers.I got mine from a now defunct bike store on this side of the pond.Fit them to the ends of the guage hoses and push them into the carb rubbers.On removal the holes seal by themselves if your rubbers are in good nick,if you're worried use a spot of superglue to seal.To calibrate push all four into the same rubber,set the tickover at the required RPM and adjust the guages,then balance the carbs at the same RPM you calibrated at.Works for me,and seemingly this is Kawasaki shop practice. :D 8)
Click to expand...
 
I used to muck around with those dial ones for years (about 24!). The carbtune tool is so much quicker and more accurate it is not funny. Invest in a good set of guages, as they can be used to synch injection throttle bodies as well, just thinking ahead a bit :)
 
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