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clutch cable bolt stripped (ARRGHH!!)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
stupid me, i was disconnecting the bolt from the engine to pull the carbs off and to make a long story short and to the point, i stripped it :evil: . can anyone share any thoughts on how i can fix it myself? I'm thinking drain the oil and pull the side off and retap it. is it that simple? (fingers crossed)
It's killing me because the engine has 2200 miles on it (garage for 20+ years) and i just had everything up and running smoothly except for the number 3 carb suddenly puking fuel... requiring the carb pull. oy!!
thanks.
 
Are you talking about the adjuster that's a part of the engine case?

I would think a retap would help. I depends on how badly it's stripped. Another possibility might be to put a nut on both end and just sort of clamp it in place from the pressure of tightening the two nuts.

I'm not really sure I am visualizing the problem.
 
(the longish story)

(the longish story)

you know where the clutch cable (bolt) attaches to the engine from the cable on the left side? I was lefty-loosening and had the bolt almost out (last thread on the bolt) when it tipped over (kinda at --> \ <-- that slash angle) and wouldn't come out. So i straightened it and and righty-tightened it to try again when it got *almost* tight. only problem was that it was only halfway there to being in it's orginal state before i backed it out. so i backed it out again, got to the same 'tippy' spot where the bolt looked like it was being held in place by the cable still attached to the clutch but i couldn't figure out how to undo it from the engine (the cable). Soooo, i aligned the bolt, being very careful, not wanting to counterthread it and sure enough got to the halfway point and didn't do the zen thing and one turn too many. so now the bolt (with the cable still running through it) is righty-loosening and lefty-tightening with a sliver shaving coming out of the threaded insert of the engine. And i'm about to bolt cut the clutch cable off (i was so mad i've stayed away from it for the last 5 days) so i can at least get the carbs off and cleaned. the service manual says "disconnect the clutch cable" so what did i miss??
 
Re: (the longish story)

Re: (the longish story)

Did you remove the cotter pin from the clutch end of the cable so that the end of the cable was free to turn and disconnected from the splined shaft that sticks out of the transmission housing?

I dont know why you would need to remove the clutch cable to remove the carbs. I had the carbs off the 1150 three times yesterday and never touched the clutch cable.

Earl


yajrr said:
you know where the clutch cable (bolt) attaches to the engine from the cable on the left side? I was lefty-loosening and
Click to expand...
 
(Smacking forehead) D'OH!

(Smacking forehead) D'OH!

no i didn't.... i knew i was doing it wrong, i couldn't figure out why. i'm not experienced with engines but i know my way around tools and i know how to read LOL. I was trying to pull the cable because i kept getting the carbs hooked on it and i thought (regrettably in hindsight) that it would make it easier, it's that zen thing i ignored... stupid zen.... So after i pull the cotter pin and get the thing off, i should be able to retap the threaded insert and redie the bolt? I'm guessing that at the least i need to check the clutch plates for metal particles, and should change the oil again...
 
What kind of bike is it? It's not listed in your sig or profile, and would be very helpful information.

As suggested previously, a helicoil would be the best permanent repair.

If I'm picturing your problem correctly, how on earth would metal from this get into your oil or onto your clutch plates?
 
Re: (the longish story)

Re: (the longish story)

earlfor said:
I had the carbs off the 1150 three times yesterday and never touched the clutch cable.
Click to expand...

Awww... Now why was that, Earl?

Pod free and happy,

Michael
:wink: :wink: :wink:

(Sorry for your frustrations... I just couldn't resist)
 
Re: (Smacking forehead) D'OH!

Re: (Smacking forehead) D'OH!

yajrr said:
So after i pull the cotter pin and get the thing off, i should be able to retap the threaded insert and redie the bolt? I'm guessing that at the least i need to check the clutch plates for metal particles, and should change the oil again...
Click to expand...

There is likely not enough material in the hole to retap for the same size. You have to drill it out to spec for the next bigger tap size and then retap it. And you'll need a bolt of the new size.

If you've never used a tap before you should get some practice on a piece of scrap.

Either I or a previous owner (maybe some of both) cross-threaded and stripped one of the bolts for the timing cover. Eventually retapped them all one size bigger and got new stainless bolts for them. Nice, really. :D

I'll defer to somebody else about the clutch plates.

Michael
 
Re: (the longish story)

Re: (the longish story)

heh Michael, I replaced the coils with Accels. Instructions for them warn that rejetting may be needed. Called the seller to ask about that, was told that is not true, Accel just says that to "cover their butt". Well, I must be the only one in the world that it is true for. Change jets, resynch, set mixtures, install new plugs, go for 50 mile test ride. Come home, check plugs, and repeat the whole process, installing another new set of plugs, go ride. Three times so far and it isnt how I want it yet. heh heh

Earl



mopolopo said:
earlfor said:
I had the carbs off the 1150 three times yesterday and never touched the clutch cable.
Click to expand...

Awww... Now why was that, Earl?

Pod free and happy,

Michael
:wink: :wink: :wink:

(Sorry for your frustrations... I just couldn't resist)
Click to expand...
 
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