Idle changing speeds (to its own beat )

[Anonymous]

If they have never been off , get a impact driver, will have to pull carbs any ways to replace orings & boots, Then if they do bake off you will have to dill them out, Get a good left hand drill bit, snap-on has an easy out kit with the left handed bit & easy out, But I hope you wont need them

[Anonymous]

I think Aero-Kroil is better than PBlaster. It's hard to find. I ordered from the website. They're both the same type of product.

You should be able to get enough swing of the hammer with the carbs and air box removed. It doesn't take much.

The manifolds for my bike cost $25 each from Bike Bandit. For me, that's enough to try to keep them in good condition.

I've heard some good things about reverse drill bits? Sometimes they're called left-hand bits. The bit turns in the same direction as is needed to remove the bolt.

I think it may be a good idea to replace the bolts when you put it back together. Some anti-sieze compound is a good thing, too.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi Keith,

the screws ARE original, never had them off my 83, I know, I bought it in crate in 83.. Not stripped, I have not touched them, I tried one screw and it did not budge so stopped there.

I just took her for a heat up ride, got her real hot and downed the idle to 1500, better than 2000, but the idle screw now as loose as she gets....

so thats where im at... so far...

I drilled out the mixture screw caps when rebuilding as 21 years I dont trust factory set anymore.. could I have it too rich?? set all at factory 1-1/2 and synced.
sync was a touch off, but within one line as the o-rings and adapters into the boots I dont think seal great (will get new o-rings for them too)

so the saga goes on....

It's not your mixture screw settings. You have intake leak(s).
Also, it sounds like you did a carb sinc with vacuum leaking. This just won't work. You most likely raised the vacuum levels to compensate for the vacuum leaks. Once you fix the vacuum leaks, your rpm's are going to shoot up when you first start it up.
You have to replace the o-rings and/or the manifolds and re-sinc after that. As for those stuck screws, I know they can be a pain and some of us just have better luck than others at loosening them. I would say I have average strength but I have pretty strong wrists and hands. As long as I use a good fitting bit or screwdriver, I always get these Phillips out. You just have to get a good fitting bit and if you don't have one, do yourself a favor and buy one. The bit must be perfect in fit, or only a very slight amount of play. These Phillips will push your bit out as you turn and then you strip the heads. I usually use an impact screwdriver but I seldom have to actually use impact. The larger diameter handle of my impact gives a better grip than a smaller handled regular screwdriver. I do give the screw a good whack first just to "jar" it.
I then just find the best leverage and push in hard and turn. If the bit fits GOOD, this should work.

[Anonymous]

Looks like I have a new project when the rain is ove.....
want this solved before the new paint job is back,, 2-3 more days..

Thanks for all the help, only on the GS forum.....

any more ideas keep em coming.....

Stimpy