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Lock-Tite

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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The guy who previously owned my motorcycle apparently used lock-tite on the screws for the casing. I can't get the screws out now. Any suggestions???
 
Can't...I don't own one and the 3 of screws are stripped. I was thinking about drilling them out, but I'm not sure there's enough metal to retap.
 
You can use a sawzall blade and file a slot in the head of the screw before you try to drill it out.

Then insert the flathead bit of the impact driver and knock that baby out.

If that fails, then you will have to drill it out.

:)
Dm of mD
 
Slot the screws with a dremel tool, then use an impact driver. Sears has an Impact driver that is pretty cheap, and is a worthwile investment.
 
Working with the phillips screws, you MUST have an impact driver. You can also use a drill to remove the head of the bolt, then use vise grips when you have the cover off.
 
heat

heat

If you're sure it's Loctite holding it and not corrosion, use heat. The blue is supposed to be easy removal with no heat required, if it's red heat will definetly be needed. Even if it is corrosion heat can't hurt anyway...Mike
 
A trick a machinist taught me is to use a chisel to make a notch on the outside of the screw head and then hit the screw head with the chisel at the notch tangentially to the screw to turn it. Works more than half the time for me.

BTW, get an impact driver. On an old bike I wouldn't even think of putting screwdriver to screw without first loosening it with an impact driver. Once you get them out change them to allen headed screws.

Good Luck.

Jeff
 
An impact driver is standard equipment for all of us with these old bikes. I don't even think of taking my out my case bolts without it. Everyone has dropped some good tips, but if you can't get it out, run by the hardware store and get a screw extractor. It has reverse threads and it is tapered. Put your drill in reverse and it will dig it's way into the bolt until it breaks free. Requires drilling a pilot hole first. However, using a screw extractor greatly reduces the risk of you accidentally clipping some of your case with the drill bit when trying to drill out an entire bolt. People use these on nasty situations like rusty exhaust head bolts and the like. Good thing is that they make smaller sizes for smaller bolts/screws.

Here is an example extractor. They also come with square flutes for softer materials.
4427282_1_65271.jpeg


Good luck!
Jon
 
The extractor was going to be my next step. Unfortunately, I while I would love to own and impact driver, I simply can't afford one now. This will be the first time I'll have to extract a screw, so I need to know what, if any, damage will it do to the casing? Will I have to rethread? If so, how do I do that?
 
An impact driver (not impact gun) is going to cost you about 10 bucks at a discount tool store. I don't know just how stripped the head on the screw is but these gadgets do work well. I use mine as a screw-driver most of the time before I start beating on it with a 2 pound hammer.

Steve
 
Reverse drill bits are your friend.

Screw extractors are as well.

Dang it! I finally find a thread I can contribute some help to and everyone has already covered it!
 
Steve is right. Impact screwdrivers are only $10-$20. Not to be confused with an impact wrench (sometimes called an impact driver). The impact screwdriver is a hand-powered tool that you strike with a mallet or hammer.

-jon
 
Lock-tite

Lock-tite

A word of warning-screw extractors AKA Easy-outs are seriously hardened and VERY brittle.Be very careful using them as,if they break they're almost impossible to drill out.You'd need to get it spark eroded,and that ain't cheap!Go for heat and the impact driver,if you strip the thread it's easy and cheap enough to put a thread insert in.
 
The screw is stripped. We are talking there is no way to get it out using any usual means. How easily to extractors break? Like I said, I'm very low on funding, and I want to get this clutch fixed, and I don't want to have to spend an extraordinary amount of money on a big mistake. What kind of tips do you guys have?
 
The only way an extractor will work, is if you can use a big one. The small ones break too easy. You may be able to drill the head of the screw off, take the cover off, then use vice grips to grab the stub and turn it out. Try hitting it with a hammer too, sometimes it will loosen up the threads, and allow it to turn.
 
If you can drill the head off the bolt and remove the part, you have an excellent chance of removing the rest of the bolt with vice-grips.

They are likely corroded in place, but if you can get the part out of the way without gouging it to pieces with the drill, you're almost home free.

A little of your favorite "panther whiz" and a few light taps to loosen the corrosion, and you should be able to lock on with vice-grips and apply serious torque.

During my last engine transplant, I ended up drilling off all but two of the bolt heads. I only gouged one hole, but it was only cosemetic. Everything has been replaced with stainless allen head bolts.

Who was this Phillips guy, and where can we find him to beat him up for inventing these incredibly stupid screw heads?
 
Lock-tite

Lock-tite

You have to drill a pilot hole in the exact centre of the head and shank of the bolt,insert the extractor and turn carefully anti-clockwise.they have been known to snap on the first turn!I'd advise drilling the head off the bolt,removing the casing and then tackling the shank wilth vice-grips or cutting a notch as described before.Good luck!
 
An extractor small enough to deal with the 6mm case bolts WILL break. Guaranteed. Don't even try.

Just use a sharp, large-ish drill bit (1/2 or 3/8 or so) to remove the head of the bolt. Go slowly.

Once you can remove the part, then you'll be able to grab the stub easily with a big honkin' pair of vice-grips.
 
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