Lock-Tite

[Anonymous]

The screw is stripped. We are talking there is no way to get it out using any usual means. How easily to extractors break? Like I said, I'm very low on funding, and I want to get this clutch fixed, and I don't want to have to spend an extraordinary amount of money on a big mistake. What kind of tips do you guys have?

[lhanscom]

The only way an extractor will work, is if you can use a big one. The small ones break too easy. You may be able to drill the head of the screw off, take the cover off, then use vice grips to grab the stub and turn it out. Try hitting it with a hammer too, sometimes it will loosen up the threads, and allow it to turn.

[bwringer]

If you can drill the head off the bolt and remove the part, you have an excellent chance of removing the rest of the bolt with vice-grips.

They are likely corroded in place, but if you can get the part out of the way without gouging it to pieces with the drill, you're almost home free.

A little of your favorite "panther whiz" and a few light taps to loosen the corrosion, and you should be able to lock on with vice-grips and apply serious torque.

During my last engine transplant, I ended up drilling off all but two of the bolt heads. I only gouged one hole, but it was only cosemetic. Everything has been replaced with stainless allen head bolts.

Who was this Phillips guy, and where can we find him to beat him up for inventing these incredibly stupid screw heads?

[Anonymous]

Lock-tite

You have to drill a pilot hole in the exact centre of the head and shank of the bolt,insert the extractor and turn carefully anti-clockwise.they have been known to snap on the first turn!I'd advise drilling the head off the bolt,removing the casing and then tackling the shank wilth vice-grips or cutting a notch as described before.Good luck!

[bwringer]

An extractor small enough to deal with the 6mm case bolts WILL break. Guaranteed. Don't even try.

Just use a sharp, large-ish drill bit (1/2 or 3/8 or so) to remove the head of the bolt. Go slowly.

Once you can remove the part, then you'll be able to grab the stub easily with a big honkin' pair of vice-grips.

[Anonymous]

Just use a sharp, large-ish drill bit (1/2 or 3/8 or so) to remove the head of the bolt. Go slowly.

This appears to be the most feasible method, but before I go about it, give me absolute, detailed instructions. At what angle should I hold the drill?

[lhanscom]

Straight on, you're trying to take the head of the screw off, that's it.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

If the heads of the screws are out in the open, channel locks work for me.

[crc1214]

An impact screwdriver will still work for you. Even if the head is completely stripped. The largest bit on it is a #3 size phillips. That bit is the hardest of hardest material, and it will dig into whatever is left of your screws head. Assuming the stripped hole is not as large in diameter as the thickest part of a #3 phillips head screwdriver, you should still be able to get this thing out with an impact screwdriver.

Buy one, you will need it for all the other screws anyhow. About 12 bucks at Auto-Zone.

Good luck,

Chad
Columbus, OH 1978 GS550E

[Anonymous]

The largest bit on it is a #3 size phillips.

The stripped screw started out as a #3. I'm closer to having it drilled off.

[Evil Hobbit]

I have used the Craftsman 7 pc. Power Extractor Set, Drill-Out? with much success.

[mcycle-nut]

Get a drift the size of screw head, beat on it for a bit. Now you should barely see the old cross from the Phillips head. Get 2 or 3 screwdriver and beat on it until it has made a new cross. Put the appropriate in the impact driver and beat. It should come out. 8)

[pntrdave]

Got my impact driver for less than $10. On case bolts if it were me I'd try the impact driver and if that didn't work I'd drill the head off and then use vice grips on the inch or so of screw that is still sticking out after the case is taken off.