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    Hello everyone, I was reading the stator archives, many times I read ground the RR to the battery neg. can someone tell me how? thank you.
    ard

    #2
    Make an extra cable using 10 ga wire? Mount one end to one of the mounting bolts of the reg connect the other end to the (-) battery terminal

    Comment


      #3
      Thank you very much SQ dancer, I will see if there is one first, if not I will ground the R?R box to the batteries neg terminal Have a great day.

      Ard

      Comment


        #4
        Connecting the black DC output wire (-) of the R/R directly to the negative terminal of the battery is all the ground that is needed. You can add a 2nd ground between the case of the R/R and the frame or the battery neg terminal, but if the R/R is connected directly to the battery neg terminal by it's black (-) wire, there is nothing to be gained by doing so.

        Earl


        Originally posted by ard
        Thank you very much SQ dancer, I will see if there is one first, if not I will ground the R?R box to the batteries neg terminal Have a great day.

        Ard
        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

        I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Earl, I went and looked at the R/R, other then the multipronged plug, there was no groung wire running to the battery's _ terminal, however there was a ground wire piggytailed to the ground wire that attaches to the battery, and I dont think it went to the R/R.
          when I was testing the charging system to get volt reading the R/R was smelling that typical electric circuit burn smell. so should I go and check the stator output or, that should be enough evidence,
          engine running at 5K rpm with high beam on, it read only 11,67 v.
          If I need to check the stator, my workshop manual, tells me check the three legs, where are they? what area of the bike should I look?.
          Thank you.

          Ard.

          Comment


            #6
            Everything on your bike runs on 12 DC current. Or, to put it another way, the bike runs off of the battery. The charging system only replenishes what is used from the battery. The charging system produces AC voltage.
            The bike uses DC voltage. Consequently, the stator output of 80 volt three phase AC voltage must be rectified to 12 volt DC to power the bike.

            The first thing you need to verify anytime you think you may have a charging failure is that the first stage of the charging system is functioning correctly. That is.........does the stator produce 80 volts of AC current on each of its three phases when the engine is running at an rpm of 5000.

            The stator is located in the left side engine cover at the crankshaft. Coming out of the area over the countershaft sprocket, you will find three wires that are the output leads from the stator. These three wires run to the connector that your R/R plugged into. Disconnect the R/R plug. The three stator wires will usually be yellow. They may be yellow, black and blue, yellow and white or black and yellow. It does not matter what color they are as they are all electrically exactly the same. When you have the three wires separated from being connected to anything (bare ends), you need to measure AC voltage between each of the three legs/wires. Be sure you do NOT allow any of the bare wires to contact anything metal on the bike. If the wires were numbered 1, 2, and 3, then you would want to connect your multimeter between wires 1 and 2, rev the bike to 5000 rpm and read the voltage. Then connect the meter between wires 2 and 3, rev bike to 5k rpm read voltage, then connect between wires 1 and 3 rev bike to 5k rpm read voltage. Each reading should be 80 volts at 5 k rpm. If you get that voltage or close to it, the stator is fine. You already know your R/R is not putting out sufficient voltage, so if the stator is fine, then the problem can only be the R/R. If the stator is faulty, then the problem is the stator for sure and it may or may not be the R/R. You cant check the R/R output if you dont have the correct input (stator voltage).

            Earl






            Originally posted by ard
            Hi Earl, I went and looked at the R/R, other then the multipronged plug, there was no groung wire running to the battery's _ terminal, however there was a ground wire piggytailed to the ground wire that attaches to the battery, and I dont think it went to the R/R.
            when I was testing the charging system to get volt reading the R/R was smelling that typical electric circuit burn smell. so should I go and check the stator output or, that should be enough evidence,
            engine running at 5K rpm with high beam on, it read only 11,67 v.
            If I need to check the stator, my workshop manual, tells me check the three legs, where are they? what area of the bike should I look?.
            Thank you.

            Ard.
            Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

            I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

            Comment


              #7
              I fond the connection end of the stator, it was underneath the gas tank they are three yellow plugs, I disconnected the plugs I started the engine bring up the RPM to 5k, the reading I got was 42, -50, so I guess my stator is not good,
              could it be fixed? or rebuild? from what I have seen, the stator is not easyly breakable. If I have to buy, should I get a used one?
              Yesterday, I did the same test everything connected and the battery reading was 11.97. today after resoldering lose ends and addind a ground to the battery from R?R I got 12.and some .
              what do you think. Thank you.

              Ard

              Comment


                #8
                Ard,

                Sounds like you are on the same path that I once was. My 78GS750 was only putting out about 50V on any of the phases. I went to the Electrex site to get a new stator, but they did not have one for my model. However, they did rebuild my stator for $120 or $130. DON'T buy one used! You never know when it will go out next and the electrics in GS's are notorius for failing at will. I decided to do the rebuild and purchase the R/R combo. My bike has been running great ever since (plus my plugs aren't fouling out any more)!



                good luck!
                Jon
                16 KTM 1290 Super Duke GT with 175hp stock, no upgrades required...
                13 Yamaha WR450 with FMF pipe, Baja Designs street legal kit
                78 GS750E finely tuned with:

                78 KZ1000 in pieces with:
                Rust, new ignition, burnt valves and CLEAN carbs!

                History book:
                02 GSF1200S Bandit (it was awesome)
                12 Aprilia Shiver 750
                82 GS1100G

                83 Kaw 440LTD

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thank you for your advice, I think it make sence to ribuild the one I have, where do I go to rebuild the stator? does the electric motor winders rebuild stators?
                  How about the R/R the one I have is smelling more and more burnt , so at any time I guess it will cook.
                  where do I go for that, any Ideas? thank you

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by ard
                    Thank you for your advice, I think it make sence to ribuild the one I have, where do I go to rebuild the stator? does the electric motor winders rebuild stators?
                    How about the R/R the one I have is smelling more and more burnt , so at any time I guess it will cook.
                    where do I go for that, any Ideas? thank you
                    Believe in truth. To abandon fact is to abandon freedom.

                    Nature bats last.

                    80 GS850G / 2010 Yamaha Majesty / 81 GS850G

                    Comment


                      #11
                      call electrex. i had one shipped to CT overnight....it was 150 after shipping and a used one was 90...why replace a poorly engineered electronics with more poorly engineered elctronics???...also do a diode test this will answer more questions relating to the RR...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        rewind

                        Have you considered rewinding yours.
                        I thought mine might have been gone so I was ready to rewind it, even bought the wire since the weekend was coming up and I didn't have time to check it.
                        After doing the tests find out it was the R/R ( bought a Honda one) so now I have a roll of magnet wire laying around.
                        If you want and have the time, I'd be willing to rewind it for you, won't even charge you anything since I already have the wire, all it'll cost is shipping.
                        Keep in mind I've never done it before but being mechanically inclined I can't see it being that hard.....Mike

                        Comment


                          #13
                          well, I disconnected the three legs of the stator, and ran the bike at 5k. and I checked all three legs, between them I could only get 40 to 50 V. sometimes, so before we get to the R/R dont you think I should fix the stator?
                          As for the stator you have, well you are making a very generous offer I dont know if I can refuse it, I will pay you the shipping and whatever you charge me I can PM you with my address and you can tell me how much you want me to send.
                          As for the R/R my bike is 83 GS 750 E, everyone is talking about Honda or Kawasaki R/R; Any one knows which would fit mine? I would appreciate the info.

                          Ard.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            search

                            Do a search on the forums for regulator etc. , there's lots of info.
                            This is a sample of some of the postings,
                            Shindengen SH232-12 (from Steve)

                            Shindengen SH535A-12 6.1 from a 650 Shadow
                            3 yellow wires one to each of the stator wires, red to +12V, black to -12V, orange to switched +12V (this one is mine).

                            If you're replying to me I was offering to rewind your stator, if I had an extra I'd sell it to you but I don't. The offer still stands though, I'll rewind it for you so long as you realise that I've never done one before but again,, I can't see any problem. I live in Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada, B4C 1E2 if that helps you figure the shipping.
                            Drop me a line if you have any other questions..Mike

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