Loss of power/ stall

[Anonymous]

Let me try this and I hope I can get some help..I have a 1981 gs1000g, I tried to turn my idle down one day while sitting on the bike, but instead of grabbing the idle knob, I grabbed another knob that goes directly into the back of the engine and it is shown on the "cutout view of the 1100" on this site. Every since then my bike has no throttle response. I fire(stubburnly) and when throttling down the road it misses and backfires through the pipes, almost like it is firing prematurely but, with no power at all. It also instantly heats up the engine and even made my rods start knocking. Also when sitting still at an idle it will just drop off the monitor and stall out on me, making my next firing even harder. I tried to replace the plugs but no change in the attitude. I also tried to play with that knob on the engine again but can not seem to make my bike run. Anyone out there got ideas???? Thanks for anyones help.

[focus frenzy]

I hate to say it but you messed up good, the only other knob under the carbs besides the one for the idle adjustment is the cam chain tensioner.
turning it back will cause the tensioner to retract and you will get excessive slack in the timing chain, when this happens the cams can jump time, this is what sounds like has happened to your bike.

[Detman101]

Goodness. I had no idea that little knob could fubar your bike like that.
Just another reason I WILL NOT mess with it.

Yikes,
Dm of mD

[Anonymous]

Anyone have a way to fix this other than a dealer??

[Detman101]

The cure for this would be to set the timing right?
Wait...no, that is the electronic side of the whole thing and that uses a timing light. How would you go about setting the mechanical side of the timing? That would require removal of the valve cover right?

:?
Dm of mD

[Anonymous]

The cure for this would be to set the timing right?
Wait...no, that is the electronic side of the whole thing and that uses a timing light. How would you go about setting the mechanical side of the timing? That would require removal of the valve cover right?

:?
Dm of mD

Yes, you'll need to remove the valve cover. It's a good excuse to do a valve adjustment now. It's not that complicated of a task but a manual will certainly come in handy.

In short, you'll need to line up the notches on the cams so that they sit flush with the top of the head. You can do this be removing the signal generator cover (right side engine cover) and rotating the engine with a wrench or socket or by turning the rear wheel in 5th gear. This is easier to do with the plugs out or at least loosened. Once the notches on the cams are lined up with the head, you need to make sure you have the correct number of cam chain links between the intake and exhaust cam sprockets. There will be marks on the cam sprockets that you use as a start and end point. You will then reset the cam chain tensioner, put the vavle cover back on and you're good to go.

I may have missed something here but as I mentioned, with the help of a manual, it really isn't all that difficult.

[Anonymous]

Thank you all for your help, I will keep updated on here. After fixing this problem I am looking into selling this bike...it has been great for me but I am a little on the short side and even with the seat modified and the shocks as low as they go...I still have to use the balls of my feet. IF anyone is interested please feel free to email me directly. I can send pics if anyone wants to see the bike.

[Anonymous]

I am curious if by bringing the number 1 cylinder to top dead center then turning the cam chain tensioner if that would work? if not, i am in great need of help on how to go about resetting it.

[focus frenzy]

you are going to have to remove the cam cover and the ignition cover (right side)

with the timing cover off, use a socket wrench on the hex head and turn the engine foward (clockwise) till the timing mark "T" lines up with the timing mark on the timing plate, with that set the arrow #1 on the exhaust cam sprocket should point dirrectly at or slightly below the gasket surface on the head.
if it points correctly there should be exactly 20 chain pins between arrow #2 on the exhaust sprocket and arrow #3 on the intake cam sprocket.
if none of these line up, you will need to reset and remove the cam chain tensioner and realign the marks.
you do need the service manual, there is not enough room here to go into the depth needed.

[Anonymous]

Ok great thank you for all the help, it is Thursday and I have done all the steps. My marks line up and pins match as you say right from the get go. How do i reset the cam chain tensioner? or do i need to? Do i need to remove that dangnab thing? Please help a little more for a guy who needs to watch where he puts his hands...lol

[earlfor]

Ahhhh yes Damien, the first rule of wrenching. If you dont know what it does and how it does it, it is best to keep your hands in your pockets. LOL

And..........the 2nd rule of wrenching is: If it aint broke, dont fix it.

heh heh heh snicker :-)

Earl

Goodness. I had no idea that little knob could fubar your bike like that.
Just another reason I WILL NOT mess with it.

Yikes,
Dm of mD

[Anonymous]

NOOOOOOOOOO luck

Well after checking the timing chain, all was right, but did it three times just to insure it was correct. Fired it up...sounded good...ran to the corner was running good...got two blocks away and all he.. broke loose...throttle response was delayed and bogged down...then cleared up about 4grand....got to a stop sign...died.........wouldn't fire back up. After pushing it back home I relooked at my timing mark on the point side of the engine....it appears I have two or three "T's" on the dang thing...any idea's which one im supposed to be using?? Anyone else with other ideas??

[focus frenzy]

from your last post it sounds more like a fuel starvation problem, the book only states to align the "T" for cylinder 1and 4, you can confirm this by removing a spark plug from one of the end cylinders and shining a flash light in the plug hole to see that the piston is up all the way, once you have the 1 and 4 pistons up to top dead center and the "T" aligns up on the timing mark.
keep in mind that the cams turn at half the speed of the crank shaft, so if when the piston is at top dead center the #1 exhaust timing arrows is pointed 180* back, turn the crank forward one full turn and align the marks back up.

[Anonymous]

Thanks again for all your help...it is greatly appreciated. I am new to the mechanical aspects of a bike. Cars I know and can do..but bikes im worried to death on I think cause of the tightness of frame and engine. I am in the process of draining out the fuel tank to try new fuel. My cylinders did line up with the redoing of the timing check, so I know I used the right "t" mark. Since they lined up and the number of pins was correct..do you still suggest that I reset the timing tensioner? Also the last time it was running I noticed smoke out of my left bank exhaust...Ideas if the two problems are related?

Thank You

[Anonymous]

Given Up!!!!!!

I have drained out all gas, changed filter, bypassed fuel filter, rechecked the timing marks, tried to reset the timing chain tensioner.......all to no avail. WHEN I get it fired up, it will run at a loooooooooww lowww idle 8-9 thou. the second I give it a crack (not full, or half, but a crack) of the throttle, instant death. Then I play hell to get it fired back up again. I have 2 "T's" for my timing mark, I lined up the one that brings the #1 and #4 cylinder to TDC, and then I have pulled off the valve cover, My exhaust cam sets the #1 sprocket right at the gasket level, The #2 on the sprocket starting with the pin directly above that #2 as pin 1 and counting back to the pin that is directly on top of the #3 on the intake sprocket is exactly 20 pins. I have completely removed the set screw and lock nut for my tensioner and cleaned and reinstalled making sure to turn the knurled knob all the towards the back of the bike then tighting in the set screw, Let go of the knob and it springs forward, then I back off the set screw 1/2 turn and tighten the lock nut, while doing this..the set screw then retightens to a 1/4 of a turn away from the tensioner. Then I have drained out my gas tank and filled up with 94 octaine gas. Reinstalled new plugs (3rd set) and the usual happens. I know you guys have been great..but, is all that is left is to scrap this bike and save my money? anyone with clues, ideas, theroies?? I'm open for anything.