Carb experimentation..comments?

[saaz]

I used a colortune on my 78 GS1000 to set up the idle and mid circuits. It has been some years since I had the original 26 mikunis on (I have had KZ900 28mm jobs on for years..far easier to tune as they don't have the air screw).

from memory, the air screw makes the little buggers hard to tune. The combinations of air and pilot are huge. It may not help, but I found changing the pilot jet (size bigger) enabled the pilot srew and air screw combination to be tuned far more flexibly to get idle, low and mid tuning right. This only showed up when I tried all combinations known to man to try and get consistent transition form idle to slide cutout.

The bike runs fine in normal wetaher, a little while to warm up in freezing weather, but having the power come on softer with a big bore kit, cams and ported head is ok by me when the tyres are cold!

[earlfor]

Saaz
I know exactly what you mean about it being difficult to get smooth transitions. :-) Did you do any experimentation with balancing the carbs at different vacum levels. By that I mean for example, instead of setting all carbs to draw 23 inches at 2000 rpm, set them to draw 30 inches at 2000rpm. I would be very interested in what you found if you have tried it.

Earl


[quote="saaz"]
from memory, the air screw makes the little buggers hard to tune. The combinations of air and pilot are huge. It may not help, but I found changing the pilot jet (size bigger) enabled the pilot srew and air screw combination to be tuned far more flexibly to get idle, low and mid tuning right. This only showed up when I tried all combinations known to man to try and get consistent transition form idle to slide cutout.

[saaz]

No, I just run the bike at the suggested revs then balance to match the carbs that are already equal