Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Way to test for charging?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Way to test for charging?

    I was told this trick to test whether my 4X4 was charging when the battery died, and I'm wondering if anyone has any objections to me trying it on my 84 GS1150 (you guessed it, the battery was low this morning, wouldn't start).

    -Start the engine. Remove -ve battery lead:
    --if the battery is no good, the alternator will keep the engine running
    --if its the charging system that is faulty, the engine will die pretty quick.

    I have started going thru the flowchart featured in the stator papers, but have decided I'm not really getting anywhere without a digital multimeter. The only thing I did differently was ride with the hi-beam on yesterday(50km round trip to work), and noticed on the way home that the dash lights seemed a little dim. I have since topped up my battery (all cells at the low mark) and have it on the charger. That's all I can do for now (until digital meter etc etc).

    #2
    Fast eddie,

    Don't run it without the battery. Wait for the multimeter! Doesn't need to be digital. A cheap $7 analog version from Walmart will do the trick as long as it has the range.

    -Jon
    16 KTM 1290 Super Duke GT with 175hp stock, no upgrades required...
    13 Yamaha WR450 with FMF pipe, Baja Designs street legal kit
    78 GS750E finely tuned with:

    78 KZ1000 in pieces with:
    Rust, new ignition, burnt valves and CLEAN carbs!

    History book:
    02 GSF1200S Bandit (it was awesome)
    12 Aprilia Shiver 750
    82 GS1100G

    83 Kaw 440LTD

    Comment


      #3
      Jon;
      what kind of damage could occur without the battery? Are you subjecting the electrics to spikes from the charging ssytem?

      I have a cheapo multimeter, but in the 50V range the indicated voltage at idle appears to be the same as at 5000 rpm, so I was thinking maybe something a little more precise... (denial - naw, it can't be the same!)

      Comment


        #4
        To my knowledge, it can fry the electrics. There's a huge note in my service manual not to run w/o the battery.

        If the voltage is the same, something is probably bunk. If you can tell the difference between 12V and 14V on that 50V setting, you know you've got a problem (if you're showing 12V). Have you seen the stator papers yet?

        -jon
        16 KTM 1290 Super Duke GT with 175hp stock, no upgrades required...
        13 Yamaha WR450 with FMF pipe, Baja Designs street legal kit
        78 GS750E finely tuned with:

        78 KZ1000 in pieces with:
        Rust, new ignition, burnt valves and CLEAN carbs!

        History book:
        02 GSF1200S Bandit (it was awesome)
        12 Aprilia Shiver 750
        82 GS1100G

        83 Kaw 440LTD

        Comment


          #5
          Hmmm... I don't know if I can tell the difference btwn 12 and 14V on my meter, that's the problem.

          In any case, is this fried stator/RR thing something that happens out of the blue, or are there any tell-tale signs leading up to a failure?

          Comment


            #6
            Mine happened to be a slow death, but I've heard others say it's gone out quick. One thing is for sure with GSs, the stock electrics are mediocre at best, even when purchased brand new.

            Looks like a different meter will help the diagnosis though.

            -jon
            16 KTM 1290 Super Duke GT with 175hp stock, no upgrades required...
            13 Yamaha WR450 with FMF pipe, Baja Designs street legal kit
            78 GS750E finely tuned with:

            78 KZ1000 in pieces with:
            Rust, new ignition, burnt valves and CLEAN carbs!

            History book:
            02 GSF1200S Bandit (it was awesome)
            12 Aprilia Shiver 750
            82 GS1100G

            83 Kaw 440LTD

            Comment

            Working...
            X