Starter Clutch? Woes 82 GS1000 Katana (long)

[bybowtie]

I am having a similar issue, however mine is due to the fact that someone got the bright I dea to reshape the crank end.. Have had it fixxed and break a few times and am now gonna weld it.. Ill let you know if it works.

[Can_O_Tuna]

Has any body every had the clutch welded to the rotor? I would think that would be the best solution, if it can be done without warping something.

Luke: Mine looks like copper on the outside edges(between the clutch and the rotor, if it would work I'd do just about anything at his point.

What kind of bolts are you using??

Aircraft hardness from Fastenall ( they are a real pain to drill out, even with a titanium bit)

I'd say try the dowel route, as a starter clutch would cost a lot even used. I think 80 is a bit much to drill a hole and put a tight fitting dowel in.

Carter: That's probably what I will try next.. the guy that quoted me is the one horse in my one horse town...I am going to call someone in Buffalo. I tourqued it to 115lbs. New kit is $154 + s/h from Ron Ayers

bybowtie; let me know if you fix it!

I pulled it apart ( I bought the removal tool) and there are 2 raised marks on the crank that look like polished rust ...I'm really looking closely at EVERYTHING...wonder it they are causing a problem, also it looked like it was the slightest bit out of round... I have had this bike for 14 years and only had this cover off once before to change a gasket....

Maybe the tuna is mad at me for letting her sit for a couple of years


Thanks for the input: I'll let you know how the story ends...happy or with the BFH (big f@#!*!% hammer)

Jim

[Anonymous]

I'd be leery of using an impact wrench--electric or air--on the crank nut. As far as preventing the flywheel from turning, I used chain pliers from Vise-Grips (they're a regular pair of Vise-grips but instead of the jaws, there's an adjustable chain that lets you wrap around things, then you can clamp them closed like regular vise-grips). I wrapped a couple of turns of tape around the flywheel, tightened the heck out of the Vise-Grips, and then used a cheater pipe over the end of the ViseGrips to get more leverage and held the pipe against the floor.

[biker66]

I exchanged the original M8 bolts for M10 12.9 bolts.
You have to machine their heads to make them fit.
Thread the rotor for M10.
Machine the holes in the clutch assembly to accept 10mm bolts. (Tough steeel, talk to a machine shop!)

If your rotor spins free, use the lapping method described on my site.
Do NOT use Loctitie on the taper, it prevents the surfaces from contacting each other making it impossible to acquire a strong connection.

Make sure you clean the taper and the rotor with Brakleen before mounting it.
I also put the rotor in the oven for an hour befor fitting it and kept the taper cooled with ice. This will help create a crimp fit.

I torque the nut to max recommended value.