Steerig head bearing & race replacement

[Guest]

Has anyone out there successfully replaced steering head bearings & races without the $300 + dollars worth of special tools referenced in the factory service manual? I have a 78 GS1000 in need of bearings & races & wanted to see if it was possible for the average backyard mechanic to change 'em.

Terry

[Anonymous]

It sure is possible. Use a long rod and hammer to knock out the races in the steering head. Tap one side then the other, keeping them square. They are easy to replace. Just tap them in with a hammer and some soft metal, like brass.

The lower bearing is the hard one to remove. The easiest way is to use whatever means you want to destroy the bearing cage. Once you have the inside race exposed take a chisel to it. A few good whacks and the race should split. It's easy to remove then. As for replacement find a pipe that contacts the inner race and use it to drive the bearing on.

[humhead]

Thanks Swanny. Sounds like I should give it a try. I'm gonna work on a spare frame an triple tree just to be safe

Terry

[Anonymous]

I haven't replaced these in a GS, but I have in a KZ440 and a Honda ATC90. I used a stout 12-14" length of PVC pipe or dowel rod to drive out the races in the steering head of the frame.

Once you've removed the races, take all of them and a few sample ball bearings to a commercial bearing supply house to see if they can match them. For the KZ, I had to order the races from a dealer, but it used standard 1/4" ball bearings. The dealer wanted something like $21 for the 36 ball bearings, and the supply house sold them to me for five cents apiece.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Your GS should have a tapered roller brg DO as suggested MAKE sure to use a good 3-5 lb hammer otherwise you will beat on it all day and not get it out

[bwringer]

For installing new head bearing races, I make up a simple press using the old races, some big washers, some nutes, and a length of threaded rod. Much more civilized than beating them in there.

Stick 'em in the freezer the night before, and they'll be much easier to insert when they're cold.

You can get aftermarket tapered bearings pretty cheap -- why on Earth would you use the ball bearings?

[Anonymous]

If the bearings you're replacing are already taper rollers you may have problems removing the races in the headstock. These do not sit proud so you can't get a drift onto them.You may have to use a chisel or weld a bit of steel rod across the race and drive it out that way.
While you've got the front end stripped take the opportunity to tap a grease nipple into the steering head.Makes greasing the bearings MUCH easier! 8)

[humhead]

Thanks to all for the great advice. I got a set of bearings & races form Dennis Kirk for $30.00. I bought a Brass drift punch set at sears, but I need a longer
punch that has a bend in it. I started removing the bottom bearing from the triple tree, but I need to get just the right size chisel. I don't want to damage the surface of the triple tree. Luckily I have two days off (Extremely rare for me) so I can take my time & do it right.

Terry