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Stripped Oil plug on '83 GS1100E -- what to do?

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    Stripped Oil plug on '83 GS1100E -- what to do?

    Used torque specs from another bike and did a pretty good job of stripping out the threads. Used brand new aluminum crush washer and some teflon tape on the threads and it goes in pretty tightly, but the engine drips 2 or 3 drips every night. It doesn't drip after getting hot, though...
    Any specific suggestions? Get a larger tap and find another larger drain bolt? Which specific bolts to use?
    Thanks in advance,
    Jason

    #2
    Re: Stripped Oil plug on '83 GS1100E -- what to do?

    Originally posted by Henway1
    Used torque specs from another bike and did a pretty good job of stripping out the threads. Used brand new aluminum crush washer and some teflon tape on the threads and it goes in pretty tightly, but the engine drips 2 or 3 drips every night. It doesn't drip after getting hot, though...
    Any specific suggestions? Get a larger tap and find another larger drain bolt? Which specific bolts to use?
    Thanks in advance,
    Jason
    I just tried a product that seems to work on repairing stripped threads and may be worth a try for you. It is Permatex Thread Repair kit. Two part epoxy with a realease agent for the bolt. Easy instructions and quick. About $6 at Autozone.

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      #3
      Just had to take care of that little problem myself. I highly suggest removing the pan (engine removal not nessecary) and getting what is called a helicoil kit. The kit will come with a little coil that acts as new threads, a tap and an insertion tool. you will have to buy the recommended drill bit if you don't own one already. Repair is simple and goes as follows: drill out the nasty threads, cut new threads with tap and insert coil. You can use your old drain bolt and the threads will be about 5 times stronger than new. Kit should run around $25-30 without drill bit.
      Currently bikeless
      '81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
      '06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."

      I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.

      "Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt

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        #4
        Don't feel too bad, it's a pretty common mistake. My recommendation is to have it Helicoiled. A good bike shop should be able to do this or you may be able to buy the tool and inserts at Pep Boys. It isn't as cheap as the epoxy repairs but it is much stronger. Actually the stainless Helicoil thread will be stronger than the original aluminum.
        Axel

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          #5
          This happened to me also about 10 years ago. It stripped verrry slowly and wasn't the least bit sexy either!. I got tired of messing with it and bought a new oil pan. May not find one too easily these days tho.

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            #6
            as stated helicoil is the only perminate repair. Just make sure that you drill and tap it straight or it will not seal properly. You may be able to get it done by local machine shop for $10-$15 check with them

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              #7
              Helicoil. Your local shop should do it for ~$20 or you can do it yourself. It's real easy.

              Standard oil plug on a GS1100 is 10-1.25. I couldn't find a matching Helicoil so got a 10-1.50 and bought a new drain plug. Total cost about $5 if you already have the Helicoil tool.

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                #8
                Hi Jason,

                I just found this thread while looking for something else. If you haven't got the helicoil done yet, bear this in mind.

                Make sure you take the sump plate off to do the work. It can be done from underneath but probably won't be straight and therefore the washer won't seal properly.

                Secondly, the helicoil has a little tag on the inside end. This is a piece of the coil wire bent across the centre of the coil and is used to screw the helicoil into place. When the insert is done this tag is snapped off. You don't want to have this bit lying around in the sump.

                If you don't snap it off the sump plug hits it and bends the coil out of shape, loosening its fastening into the plate.

                This page is wisdom comes to you from one who found a crooked and loose helicoil in his sump plate on the first oil change after buying the bike. My temporary fix was to use a thick rubber washer that handles the misaligned sealing surfaces. I am yet to do a proper repair.

                Kim

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                  #9
                  You can temp fix this untill you heli-coil or do the permatex repair by simply applying some Red permatex RV silicone around the head of the bolt. I did mine that way untill I permanetly fixed it with the thread repair(permatex) and had no leak whatso-ever for months and months!!

                  Michael

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