Lots of smoke, wet oil in pipe

[Anonymous]

I've come to the great site in my quest to revive a '79 GS 850. I bought the bike from a friend as he was leaving for Africa. He had bought it from a couple who had purchased the bike new, and had just had the engine rebuilt. New piston rings, coil assembley, etc... They sold it to my buddy, moved away, and then the fun began.

This bike burns oil like an iraqi insurgent. At first, we thought the bike just needed some time to fix itself, but the problem has never remedied itself. After that semester in college, I aquired the bike, to give as a fathers day present. Well, I guess Dad's too old, it just sat there for a year. I was in the process of getting it back, when a little thing called Operation Iraqi Freedom came along, and poof... I'm gone for over a year.

Well, I'm just getting back, and I've got this bike to fix. But the truth is, the idea of taking the engine apart scares the heck outta me.
The bike has a ton of power, great torque, but looks like a 007 anti chase scene. Black smoke CORRECTION WHITISH GREY billows out of the 4 to 1 exhaust, the pipe is actually wet with the stuff. Does anyone have any advice for me? I'm thinking that perhaps the piston rings were placed incorrectly? maybe the wrong type? I've got a clymer manual, I keep waving it over the bike saying prayers but it's not working. I love the bike, it's definately a better size for cruising than my '81 750 virago, but I dont have a lot of money to take it in. Can anyone help a guy out?

Much obliged,
Kyle Jaracz

[Anonymous]

Re: Lots of smoke, wet oil in pipe

I've got a clymer manual, but I keep waving it over the bike saying prayers but it's not working.

LOL! Wave harder and yell! Maybe slap it on the ass a couple times.

Seriously, it sounds like you aren't in any real hurry to get it on the road. Well, ok, it's not VITAL that you get it running. Ok, ok...it's not your only mode of transportation.
Take it apart. It's not rocket science (and I work at a rocket motor facility, and I know rocket scientists, phew).
I doubt you'll need to dip into the lower end. Just the head and maybe cylinders. Go on, you'll have fun, and get greasy, and learn something (a few somethings probably, like making sure you remove all the shop rags from the cylinder before replacing the cylinder head, or that magnets and valve shims don't mix, or that dropping the cam chain between the cylinders for the umpteenth time causes Andrew Dice Clay to blush, simple stuff really).
Oh yea, we'll be here to laugh.. I mean walk you through it, every step of the way, right guys? Hey, where'd everybody go?

[Anonymous]

Agreed!!! I just rebuilt my 550, top to bottom, rings, pistons, valves, etc... You will learn, cry, bleed, cuss, etc... But one magically day, God will stretch his hand worth, open the clouds allow the sun to shine and await that precious moment that you start her up for the 1st time after you rebuilt her yourself (or just fixed someone elses %^&* up). I had no prior bike experience, BTW.

Good compression. I bet its the valve stem seals!!!

[Anonymous]

I appreciate the vote of confidence guys! Any other ideas for what to look for as I tear apart this engine? It's all pretty new to me. (Perhaps I'll try to contact some of those rocket scientists next weekend to help rip her apart).

[SqDancerLynn1]

Since you don't know what work was done ? did the prev owner have reciepts?? Frist thing to do after you get it apart is have someone mic the cylinders If they are too oversized (worn) the new ? rings will not seat properly. I would also have the valve's check

[Anonymous]

Did you say "BLACK smoke"? That's usually an over-rich sign. Burning oil usually shows as light blue-grey. (Except when a well is lit up, maybe) If it runs strong, I kinda doubt internal problems. Why not try baselining the carbs first? Thats not difficult at all, look for my previous post for some excellent advice by a couple of members. Also do a compression check to see if anything obvious is amiss, and the plugs will tell you a story as well. Cheers!

[focus frenzy]

I agree with Dodger1 ,black smoke is fuel.
you could have a combination of problems.
when I got my bike it came from some one who attempted to do a over haul them self, they put stock pistons and rings in cylinders that were worn 1mm over!!
so it sucked down oil at a rate that would foul a old two stroke spark plug.
(I was fouling out plugs every 30-50 miles!!!)

[Anonymous]

Daft question,are you keeping an eye on the oil level?I had a similar problem,loads of black smoke and what looked like oil in the pipe.Set the carbs properly following the settings posted elsewhere as a baseline and the smoke stopped.She was running immensely rich on one pot.Set the carbs up,run the bike for a few days and keep checking the oil.If no smoke and the oil level doesn't change you've cracked it!

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all of the suggestions! I'll keep updating on my progress. I'll probably start with the easiest suggestions first, seems to be an appropriate approach.

Kyle Jaracz

[scotty]

Agreed!!! I just rebuilt my 550, top to bottom, rings, pistons, valves, etc... You will learn, cry, bleed, cuss, etc... But one magically day, God will stretch his hand worth, open the clouds allow the sun to shine and await that precious moment that you start her up for the 1st time after you rebuilt her yourself (or just fixed someone elses %^&* up). I had no prior bike experience, BTW.

Good compression???. I bet its the valve stem seals!!!

Ditto as long as the smoke happens when you first start it and sometimes just when you come to an idle while stopping or when you start to move again after stopping.

[Anonymous]

Okay guys, Got a few additions to the symptoms of this bike... First off, let me say that I'm an idiot, and cant tell the difference between white smoke and black... it's whitish gray (more on the white than the gray), (and that is my final answer). Also just to clarify, there IS a layer of oil in the muffler. Next, when idling, it barely smokes at all. In fact, through all gears, it just smokes a hint untill I hit about 2700RPM. After that, were' back to the chase scene. I went ahaad and adjusted the carbs, not much help but learned a bit more so thanks. it's still got loads of power, but I'm still working on the courage to rip er down. It's my guess that either a.) it's the valve rings... or b.) it's the inicorrect piston ring size... (On the earilier receipts, there were 4 piston ring sets, so I'm hoping they got the correct size, but who knows... looks like I'm going to have to rip her down to find out?)

Thanks for everyones help, keep the suggestions coming if you please, and have a good one!

Kyle Jaracz

[Anonymous]

Yup, sounds like oil smoke. Take a look at the plugs, and do a compression test; or better still a leak-down test if you can get ahold of the equipment and the procedure, before you unbolt anything. That should give you a clearer picture of the condition of the cylinders, and the Clymer manual should walk you through the plug reading and comp. test. You'll likely have to go into the engine anyway, but a leaky valve seal or other head work is less time-consuming than re-and-re'ing the block. None of it is hi-tech so don't lose any sleep over it. If you do find a valve problem it's probably easier to bring the head to a reputable shop and let them deal with any machining or even re & re'ing valves unless you have the tools. Have fun!!