noise at idle only? !

[Anonymous]

Ive got a "rattling" noise higher up in the engine (79 GS1000L) as soon as the throttle gets smallest amt of gas and on up, the noise is gone, is this typical of a cam chain noise? Thanks....

[spots25]

I believe its caused by the cams shifting side to side. Mine does it too

[SqDancerLynn1]

Could be cams or CC, It goes away and is normal for a GS

[Anonymous]

Sure makes for a pretty noisy idle whatever it is, .....thanks

[biker66]

With radial carbs you get a normal rattling noise.
Remove the air filter(s) and put a finger on each slide while idling and you can hear the difference.

[Anonymous]

noise

sync your carbs and adjust if the plugs indicate it, works on all over head cam engines, any uneven settings cause a lot of top end noise, mine was very noisy but i did the cam chain adjuster and sync'd the carbs and was absolutely quite when i was done

[Anonymous]

Thanks for inputs, i intend to all that to it as its a new acquire for me...took CC tensioner off today, someone did not let out the plunger on last install (i hope it wasnt that long ago!) Cleaned and deburred the unit, works really good now (especially since I will let the plunger go in, haha)
It might leak oil now, but will deal with that when it happens, point was to try and eliminate the noise for piece of mind of internals.
Is there any solid way to check Cam Chain for wear while still in the bike....IE...thru the CC tensioner hole???? (other than running bike abit with tensioner set correctly then removing and checking if plunger close to end of travel)
Charging system trouble shooting is next, weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[bwringer]

The way to check the cam chain for excessive wear is to pull the valve cover, then measure a prescribed number of links with calipers. The position of the cam chain adjuster would be affected by wear on the plastic cam chain guide, so it wouldn't mean much by itself.

The procedure and specs are in your shop manual. You do have a shop manual, don't you? If not, somebody here can probably look it up.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the quick reply, I do have a Haynes manual, must have missed that procedure for a check however, thanks.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Another thing about the CC tensioner. The fine external spring can lose tension over time, so the full available range of the tensioner cannot be used. Without pressure on the ball keeping the plunger rod pressing in, you'll get lots of noise of course.
To add tension and allow the tensioner to work through its entire range:
pull one end of the spring out of its hole and wind it counter-clockwise one full turn and re-insert the spring end.

[Anonymous]

Redoing the CC tensioner solved the noise i was hearing. Had to give the spring on the knurled knob an extra turn too, werks realy slick now...BUT as luck would have it, a new noise developed right as a i was reaching to shut the bike off.....from reading posts here, sounds like the "GS clutch rattle" problem......i knew this bike would take some work and its not letting me down in that aspect!
Anyone here ever do their own work on clutch basket stuff?
Whats so good about the APE nut design I read a short clip on?
Thanks.......