2 questions: A tale of a carb and a Turn Signal

[Anonymous]

Ok,hello all. I may look new, but in reality I was around before I was delted. No big deal. Anyway, I have a few issues with my bike. First let's start with the carbs. The bike is a 1978 Gs750 e with a aftermarket vance and Hines pipe with a stock airbox with a K&N filter. I recently changed out the main jets and it works fine. I did not change out the pilot jettings. Lo and behold the bike idles like crap but has awesome acceleration. My question to you is,

1)what size pilot jets should I move up to with a aftermarket pipe and slightly modefied box?
2) Where is the best online place to get these jets?
3) What turns should me fuel and air needles be turned to?

OK, now the second question. My right rear blinker, well blinker in general does not blink. It comes on when I turn on the right blinker, but it does not blink. When I switch the wire from the rear left signal to the right rear signal everything is fine. Wala! I have a right rear blinker. In my mind, it appears that the relay has failed. I called the dealership and they won't give me a straight answer if that is the problem. I have looked at the schematics and it appears that the the turn signal circuit is quite simple. Contoller-> relay-> lights. I could be wrong. I really do not want to spend $41 dollars to find out that I am wrong. Any advice?

Thanks,
Chris

[Anonymous]

Re: 2 questions: A tale of a carb and a Turn Signal

1)what size pilot jets should I move up to with a aftermarket pipe and slightly modefied box?
2) Where is the best online place to get these jets?
3) What turns should me fuel and air needles be turned to?

First of all, did you look on Vance & Hines website? If that is of no use, you might try Dynojet's website.

I have looked at the schematics and it appears that the the turn signal circuit is quite simple. Contoller-> relay-> lights. I could be wrong. I really do not want to spend $41 dollars to find out that I am wrong. Any advice?

I would use a DC voltmeter of some sort and use the following check system:

a) Check to be sure the ground reference at the bulb is a good one by checking continuity from the negative terminal of the battery to the ground reference. Is it good? If so, continue on. If not, fix it.

b) Turn on the blinker and measure DC voltage between the positive of where the bulb is connected and the ground. Does it fluctuate bewteen 0 and above 12 V? What voltage does it get to?

c) Compare that reading to an identical reading on the side that does work.

I have an issue with my left front turn signal not working (it just comes on continuously) unless I rev the engine above 3000 rpm, so I think there may be a bad connection or something. We will see.

Presently, I'm working on other problems, but that will be one of the next things to fix...

[Anonymous]

I wanted to look up aVance and Hines part that was on ebay, but the vanceandhines.com URL only has pipes!!

Is there another V&H site????? Or are they only in the pipe business now?

[Anonymous]

The turn signal coming on steady was something I ran into when I mis-wired my new signal. It seems to happens when one or the other signal on a side is an incomplete circuit. I think the relay works only with the right resistance/load/something it gets from having two hooked up correctly.

Probably means one of them is shorting or has a lousy conneciton

[KEITH KRAUSE]

You should'nt need to increase the pilot jets size. Just turn your pilot screws (underneath) out an additional 1/4 turn and test.
The side air screws should then be set to achieve the highest rpm's. With the bike warmed up, turn each screw until you hear the rpm's max out. After all four are set, adjust the idle to 1,100 rpm's with the idle adjuster knob. If the screws are tight, use a good fitting tool to avoid stripping the heads. NEVER seat the pilot screws firmly.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Keith. I will try that.

Chris