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    Intake Pipe Repair

    I have to pull the carbs of the GS650 I just got and I can tell that when I goto pull them its gonna rip itleast 2 of the dryrotted boots off of the metal flange. Can these be repaired with glue,caulk, ect. Or am I better off buying new ones?

    #2
    better off getting new ones.

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      #3
      DON"T even try to repair them, you will be ahead of the game if you replace them. Any kind of leaks can cause all kinds of tuning problems

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        #4
        I second that. Trying to save money in this case will be a waste of your time and your bike will not run right either.
        And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
        Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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          #5
          Guess Ill get new ones than, Its just that is a bike Ive only had for a day now. I bought it not running, and got it runnin halfway decent today. Im gonna tinker around with it a little more and make sure its worth spending a hundred bucks on the pipes(there 25 a piece)

          edit: while Im doing this I might as well replace the o ring between the flange part and the engine. Any tips on getting those bottom screws out, the top ones I can crack loose with vice grips but on the bottom there isnt enought room. There in there good and its just a + screw head, should have been a bolt. But I sure cant crack it loose with a screwdriver.

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            #6
            A small pair of vice grips usually works, replace them with allen head screws Try turning the whole manifold, give it a wack with a hammer & chisel to loosen the screws

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              #7
              I've had the best luck using Aero-Kroil and an impact driver. I also suggest some anti-sieze compound when you put it back together.

              Comment


                #8
                With about half of the ^%$$#! phillips head (cross head) screws on my bike, I've ended up drilling them out.

                If you're replacing the intake boots anyway, there's no need to even be all that delicate with the drill bit. The hard part is finding a drill and bit that will fit between the frame and the head. Just put down a shop towel to catch the metal shavings. After drilling the head off and removing the part, the remnants of the bolt will probably turn easily with pliers or vice grips.

                And yes, get new o-rings. The old ones are guaranteed to be bad, and they aren't included in any of the "complete" gasket kits. At least they're cheap.

                Every time I remove a fastener on my bike, I replace it with a stainless steel allen head equivalent. With a tiny dab of antisieze on each, you'll never need your impact driver again.

                I've also invested in a selection of metric taps for cleaning up slightly mangled threads. Worth every single penny.

                It's a mystery to me why metric hardware is so hard to find. My local hardware store has a decent selection of metric (usually out of stock in the one I need), but they have at least 50 times as much selection in inch sizes.WHYYYY???? American cars have used metric fasteners since the 70s, so I guess there must be an awful lot of people needing bolts for Hardleys or '60s muscle cars. Probably all that vibration making things fall off.
                1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                Eat more venison.

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