Proper Technique for retorqueing head nuts

[lhanscom]

What is the proper technique for retorqueing head bolts? I want to do it to see if I can get rid of some of the oil seepage at the head gasket. I'm guessing that I follow the proper bolt pattern, break loose the nut, and the torque it to the proper value. Then move to the next bolt until they're all done. But I'm not sure if I should loosen all the nuts first, or do one nut at a time. Also if I should step the torque value up, or go right to the full torque value.

Thanks for the help.

[first timer]

i had some leaks around the bottom of my jug, i loosened all the bolts first then retorqued according to the book. i used some pb blaster to, to help loosen them.

-ryan

[Jethro]

I had a bad leak there too. I just took the valve cover off and had at em with a tourqe wrench. Didn't loosen them first, no specific order, just tourqed them up. Of course that bike is now a boat anchor...

[lhanscom]

Of course that bike is now a boat anchor...

Note to self, ignore everything Jethro says... :P 8O

[Anonymous]

Loosen all of the nuts then in stages retorque to the specs for your mc the sequence is easy to follow as the head bolts are all numbered on the head itself. You should have no problem with this procedure.

[Anonymous]

I agree with everyone but Jethro! Sorry, it was too good to pass up. 8)

Keep in mind that the gaskets are over 20 years old and re-torqueing may not do the trick. It is worth a try though - good luck.

[lhanscom]

I agree with everyone but Jethro! Sorry, it was too good to pass up. 8)

Keep in mind that the gaskets are over 20 years old and re-torqueing may not do the trick. It is worth a try though - good luck.

Actually the head gasket is about 2 months old, I had to replace it due to a little nitrous incident. :?

Thanks for the tips!

[argonsagas]

I have been getting flak from people about the next suggestion for years. I just ignore them, as I am firmly convinced I am correct.

I would loosen off all the bolts just a bit...perhaps a half turn.

Then, doing each one separately, I would remove each nut, and oil the stud and the contact surfaces. Once a drop or two of oil was in place, I would snug up the nut, firmly but not tight, and go on to the next one, until all were done.

Knowing now that friction on each stud had been reduced as much as possible, thus ensuring the most accurate reading, and ensuring that each nut will actually receive the full amount of torque as a tightening action, instead of being wasted as dry-thread friction, I would follow sequence as per the book, doing the entire sequence each time in separate stages of 10 foot-pounds per stage.

[wrench]

I have been getting flak from people about the next suggestion for years. I just ignore them, as I am firmly convinced I am correct.

I would loosen off all the bolts just a bit...perhaps a half turn.

Then, doing each one separately, I would remove each nut, and oil the stud and the contact surfaces. Once a drop or two of oil was in place, I would snug up the nut, firmly but not tight, and go on to the next one, until all were done.

Knowing now that friction on each stud had been reduced as much as possible, thus ensuring the most accurate reading, and ensuring that each nut will actually receive the full amount of torque as a tightening action, instead of being wasted as dry-thread friction, I would follow sequence as per the book, doing the entire sequence each time in separate stages of 10 foot-pounds per stage.

Thats very interesting, i have never heard of that method before

Thanks Ron.

[Hoomgar]

I have been getting flak from people about the next suggestion for years. I just ignore them, as I am firmly convinced I am correct.

I would loosen off all the bolts just a bit...perhaps a half turn.

Then, doing each one separately, I would remove each nut, and oil the stud and the contact surfaces. Once a drop or two of oil was in place, I would snug up the nut, firmly but not tight, and go on to the next one, until all were done.

Knowing now that friction on each stud had been reduced as much as possible, thus ensuring the most accurate reading, and ensuring that each nut will actually receive the full amount of torque as a tightening action, instead of being wasted as dry-thread friction, I would follow sequence as per the book, doing the entire sequence each time in separate stages of 10 foot-pounds per stage.

Ron, I wasn't told to do it with oil but lubricant is lubricant. But you should feel good to know if you were given flak that I know of at least one senior motorcycle mechanic that says this is the only way to torque a bolt correctly. He has done what you describe for over 27 years now and his work is reputable all through out this area so I would think it must be good advice

I do it this way but with some spray lube. I also used 3-in-1 already too.

[Anonymous]

I like the oil, then torque method. It makes sense.

[earlfor]

Nah Ron, I would never give you flak about those instructions. Thats exactly how youre supposed to do it. :-)

Earl

P.S. awww no, I dont use no freakin torque wrench. I just drive'em down with a sledgehammer. LOL

I have been getting flak from people about the next suggestion for years. I just ignore them, as I am firmly convinced I am correct.

I would loosen off all the bolts just a bit...perhaps a half turn.

Then, doing each one separately, I would remove each nut, and oil the stud and the contact surfaces. Once a drop or two of oil was in place, I would snug up the nut, firmly but not tight, and go on to the next one, until all were done.

Knowing now that friction on each stud had been reduced as much as possible, thus ensuring the most accurate reading, and ensuring that each nut will actually receive the full amount of torque as a tightening action, instead of being wasted as dry-thread friction, I would follow sequence as per the book, doing the entire sequence each time in separate stages of 10 foot-pounds per stage.

[HiSPL]

Go as tight as you can get 'em with your teeth, right Earl?

[Jethro]

Note to self, ignore everything Jethro says...

Yup. Good advice to all...