Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Blown head gasket

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Originally posted by Dink
    Just split the old camchain, hook your new camchanin to it, roler the motor over to feed it through ad press re-fit the link plate, you do not need a joining link the camchain is in a constant oilbath and that is way they last as long as they do, I heartil agree with your choice of Tsubaki chain.
    When I recently rebuilt my 550, I did just that. I split the chain and just repressed the link w/out adding a master link. Almost 3000 miles and no problem thus far. If I could hijack your thread real quick. Some of the 550's I believe came w/ a hard plastic cam guide that slips into some notches on the upper side of the cylinder head. The chain rides over top of it and then around the cams. Do I need to install that piece? I ask cuz I swapped motors and the '81 gS550T motor I had did not come w/ the guide but the 80 550E did. Just wondering... Thx!!!

    Comment


      #17
      Dink, are you saying that you do not need the "O" rings if you use a graphite top gasket?

      Since your 1150 is stock as is mine, if you have already replaced your top and base gaskets with cometic graphite ones, would you by any chance have the part numbers written down someplace? :-)

      On press/refitting the old link in the camchain......... Do you mean your method is to press out the pins, remove the sideplate and then re-install the side plae and re-peen the ends over to put it back together? I would think that would stress the pins a bit.......just a thought though, I have never done that.

      Earl


      Originally posted by Dink
      Earl have fun getting all the oilways o-ringed!! Would have been better off gettig a Cometic graphite gasket, BTW DO NOT forget to replace the base gasket and the o-rings at the bottom of the block or it will leak there very shortly after you start it.
      Just split the old camchain, hook your new camchanin to it, roler the motor over to feed it through ad press re-fit the link plate, you do not need a joining link the camchain is in a constant oilbath and that is way they last as long as they do, I heartil agree with your choice of Tsubaki chain.
      Dink
      Mr Jiggles I no problem at all with being quoted if it helps someone.
      Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

      I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

      Comment


        #18
        chain

        earlfor, try tsubakimoto.com or industrydirect.com and use there contact page maybe the pros can help out, on the chain deal.

        Comment


          #19
          Earl,
          I blew a head gasket recently too and am having my
          cylinders bored out. I hadn't planned on changing my cam chain
          because it is still in spec after 45,000 miles.

          Did blowing your head gasket screw up you cam chain,
          or is this just something you are doing while you have the top end apart?

          Thanks
          Mo

          Comment


            #20
            My cam chain is ok, but it is a little louder than I would like. I figured that as long as I was "in there", I may as well replace it. It could be the guides I am hearing, how can you tell precisely when listening to a running engine. :-) :-)

            Earl

            Originally posted by Mobetter
            Earl,
            I blew a head gasket recently too and am having my
            cylinders bored out. I hadn't planned on changing my cam chain
            because it is still in spec after 45,000 miles.

            Did blowing your head gasket screw up you cam chain,
            or is this just something you are doing while you have the top end apart?

            Thanks
            Mo
            Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

            I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by lhanscom
              I thought if you did copper you needed to do the o-rings for it to seal well?

              I have heard the same thing....

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by earlfor
                Dink, are you saying that you do not need the "O" rings if you use a graphite top gasket?

                Since your 1150 is stock as is mine, if you have already replaced your top and base gaskets with cometic graphite ones, would you by any chance have the part numbers written down someplace? :-)

                On press/refitting the old link in the camchain......... Do you mean your method is to press out the pins, remove the sideplate and then re-install the side plae and re-peen the ends over to put it back together? I would think that would stress the pins a bit.......just a thought though, I have never done that.

                Earl
                I am saying the o-rings at the bottom of the block where the cylinders meet the top crankcase half HAVE to be replaced as does the bottom gasket, BTW there is no need to peen the link pins after you press the sideplate back on, Cometic gasket number is C8031

                Comment


                  #23
                  Ahhhhh, I thought I was losing my mind. :-) Thanks :-)

                  Earl



                  Originally posted by Dink

                  I am saying the o-rings at the bottom of the block where the cylinders meet the top crankcase half HAVE to be replaced as does the bottom gasket, BTW there is no need to peen the link pins after you press the sideplate back on, Cometic gasket number is C8031
                  Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                  I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X