Question about the R/R

[Anonymous]

I am having some problems w/ the electrical system on my '82 300L, the other night while the left signal was on, the engine speed changed in time with the blinking and the bike was missing from the right cylinder. My top speed was about 30 when it was missing and switching the headlight from high to low had an effect on the engine power. I got maybe 5mph more with the brights on. I know it sounds really wierd and the guys who went on the Galena ride know what im talking about. its very intermittent and seem to be more of an issue when cold. My big question here is I checked my R/R with my meter and I get continuity and resistance EXACTLY backwards of what my Suzuki manual and section II of the stator papers say it should be. 90% of the water in the battery boiled off in about 1500 miles of riding too. Has my R/R gone to the great R/R place in the sky or is that an typo in the book?

[gremlin]

getting continuity and resistance exactly backwards. I would check the instructions on the meter you may just have the leds backwards.

fill and charge the battery. recheck all your connectons. use the wireing digram and reroute the wire from the stator that goes thru the headlight switch. it should go strate to the r/r.

add a ground wire from the battery strate to the R/R case.

[earlfor]

Re: Question about the R/R

If the R/R is charging the battery at a rate that boils the battery dry, then the charge rate is too high and the R/R is faulty. Hook your multimeter to the battery terminals. Set it to the 20 volts scale. Start the engine and run it to 5000 rpm. The charge rate should never exceed 14.9 volts max and should not exceed that regardless of how much higher the rpm is increased. Normal charge rate will be between 14.2 volts and 14.7-14.8 volts. A maximum charge rate of 14.7 is considered as perfect.
The headlight should be on high beam when you do the voltage check.

Also, dirty or corroded electrical connections and particularly dirty grounds will destroy a charging system. Make sure all connections are clean and tight.

Additionally, disconnect the three yellow wires that come from your stator.
The 3 yellow stator wires got to a plug which connects to the R/R. Disconnect that plug so the stator is not connected to anything. Set your meter to the AC scale (yes AC scale) The stator outputs AC voltage. The R/R outputs DC voltage. Run the engine at 5000 rpm. The ac output from the stator at that rpm should be 80 volts between each of the three legs. If the 3 yellow stator wires were numbered 1,2 and 3, then you would put the meter probes between 1 and 2, then between 1 and 3, then between 2 and 3. Each leg should show 80 volts.

Earl

I am having some problems w/ the electrical system on my '82 300L, the other night while the left signal was on, the engine speed changed in time with the blinking and the bike was missing from the right cylinder. My top speed was about 30 when it was missing and switching the headlight from high to low had an effect on the engine power. I got maybe 5mph more with the brights on. I know it sounds really wierd and the guys who went on the Galena ride know what im talking about. its very intermittent and seem to be more of an issue when cold. My big question here is I checked my R/R with my meter and I get continuity and resistance EXACTLY backwards of what my Suzuki manual and section II of the stator papers say it should be. 90% of the water in the battery boiled off in about 1500 miles of riding too. Has my R/R gone to the great R/R place in the sky or is that an typo in the book?

[Sandy]

Do what Earl and Gremlin said. However, it doesn't matter which way the meter leads are hooked up when checking resistence, continuity or AC voltage, it only effects reading when checking for DC voltage or checking for functioning diodes in the R/R.