Electronic Q on R/R & stator wiring.

[Anonymous]

Hi, The new stator should be here tomorrow. I bought the R/R & now the stator from Electrex. I have 12V at the main fuse & when checking I only have 10V at the other fuses. With the bad stator, good batt. Q is when I put in the stator, should I go to ground with the black wire to the neg batt & the red wire to the pos also. What to do with the red wire that went to the R/R. Need a diagram for the 82 GS650E. Went to the library & all I find is a 82 1000 & 1100 diagram. same? Any thoughts? Checked ground at the R/R to frame & was not so good so thinking about an extra wire from frame ground to batt neg. Dave

[earlfor]

Re: Electronic Q on R/R & stator wiring.

When you get the electrex stator, you will see it has three yellow wires. Your electrex R/R will have 3 yellow, a black and a red. The three yellow wires on the stator connect to the three yellow wires on the R/R. The red wire on the R/R connects to Battery positive. The black wire on the R/R connects to battery negative. Connected this way, there is nothing to be gained by adding a ground between the R/R and the bike's frame.
The now unused red wire in your wiring harness that WAS connected to the old R/R gets taped/capped off and is no longer used.

The above allows all three phases of your stator to always be available to charge the battery. Consequently, always have your headlight on to lessen the requirement of the R/R to heat sink any excess charging current.

Earl

Hi, The new stator should be here tomorrow. I bought the R/R & now the stator from Electrex. I have 12V at the main fuse & when checking I only have 10V at the other fuses. With the bad stator, good batt. Q is when I put in the stator, should I go to ground with the black wire to the neg batt & the red wire to the pos also. What to do with the red wire that went to the R/R. Need a diagram for the 82 GS650E. Went to the library & all I find is a 82 1000 & 1100 diagram. same? Any thoughts? Checked ground at the R/R to frame & was not so good so thinking about an extra wire from frame ground to batt neg. Dave

[Anonymous]

Thank you for the responce. The reason I wanted to add a ground to the frame was I checked the frame groung to neg on the batt & got 56 ohms resistance. I 1st connected the R/R black to the mount for it & found a poor ground. I didn't know what was grounded to the frame on the rest of the bike. Diagram would of helped, but all I could find was the 1000-1100 one for that year. I'm dropping a lot of $ in the charging system, But. What are you going to do. I like the bike. Repainted it, new tires, taught my son how to recover the seat. With just the batt power & checking around with the VOHM meter, I get batt voltage 12.8 at the main fuse & only reading 10.7 at the lower 3 fuses. Engine not running. Why that would be would mean a bad connection as the 3 lowers are connected from the same feed wire in the back of it. Don't know where that feed comes from. Know how to trace color codes, but don't want to cut the loom cover & sometimes you have to. Didn't know what the red wire to the old R/R went to. Again Thank you for your help. Dave P.S. I'll have to post a pic of it. Was black with the red stripe & went for a solid non metalic grey & still trying to figure out what color I want the pinstripes. Grey looks good with the black frame, kinda plain, but clean looking. Automotive finish, wet sanded the primer, color coat ( 3 times on the color coat) once on the clear coat, Used a etching primer 1st, sandable primer 2nd, 3-4 coats color, & clear. The buffing with 2 diffrent grits shure made it look like it will out last me. Lol

[earlfor]

Remove your fuseblock and look at the back. You will see a seam line around the back surface and at one end, a slight indention. Pop the back off with a screwdriver. I suspect you have corrosion on the lower 3 fuse leads/feeds in the box internally. The back just snaps back on.

Also, clean up the battery (-)ground to frame connection. Additionally, there is a ground wire to the engine on top of the transmission just aft of the cam chain tensioner and below the airbox, slightly to the right of center. :-) Clean that one up too. LOL

Earl

[quote="locodave"]
I get batt voltage 12.8 at the main fuse & only reading 10.7 at the lower 3 fuses. Engine not running. Why that would be would mean a bad connection as the 3 lowers are connected from the same feed wire in the back of it.

[Anonymous]

Hi Earl, When I found the lower voltage, I took off the back of the fuse box, popped the cover off & found the strip feed for the lower fuses. Didn't know I could go futher on taking it apart & didn't want to break it. Will clean the grounds you mentioned. I don't want to go thru it again later on something I missed this time. Sweet running bike, but, had to have a long talk with my son on the new tires I put on it. He did a burnout-> burnouts? -> (he told me just once) with it & took off 1/2 the new tread on the brand new tire. Guess he thought "DAD" wouldn't notice. -> Kids :? Dave

[Anonymous]

... Sweet running bike, but, had to have a long talk with my son on the new tires I put on it. He did a burnout-> burnouts? -> (he told me just once) with it & took off 1/2 the new tread on the brand new tire. Guess he thought "DAD" wouldn't notice. -> Kids :? Dave

Dave! You let your kids have access to your GS? You ARE loco
Get him a Nighthawk 250 until he settles down. Come to think of it, I know a guy who's selling a Savage pretty cheap...

[Anonymous]

Hi Klacko, Yup yer right-> just a little loco. We are all loco, just diffrent degrees Eh? What happened was I have had 4 bikes thru the years. My younger son has a 2003 Yamaha R6-> 105 Hp at the back wheels, he let the older boy ride it & he dosen't have a lot of $ and wanted me to co-sign for a used crotch rocket. I know where that was heading on who would be stuck & on a used one, why they are selling, prob needs a few? bucks to fix. I ran across this 650 for $225 from an original owner & told the older son, we are gonna share it & if you want to own it, pay me the $ thats into it & it"s yours. Still waiting. lol. By the By I'm a Locomotive Engineeer on the rail road ( 31 years) & thought the name fit. lol. Dave

[Anonymous]

Hi, I wanted to update, The new stator & R/R work great. I cleaned the grounds. I have one Q, It shows 14.2 V at idle. It goes up to 14.8 at 4,000 rpms & higher rpms , no change. Engine off, batt shows 12.9V -> normal? I don't want to cook a batt with the 14.2 at idle, but it's not bubblin over with a overcharge->yet. The headlight is on when you are running the motor all the time. Now it dosen't "dim a little" at idle like it did before with old R/R. Wired up the R/R 3 yellow to yellow to stator, black to batt ground, red to batt pos. Old red to old R/R taped up & not connected. Dave

[earlfor]

14.2 volts at idle, 14.8 volts max regardless of rpm and 12.8-12.9 in the battery is spot on spec. That is PERFECT! Good Job! Congrats!
Always run with your headlight on. Wired this way, the third leg of the stator output is in the charging loop at all times. Originally, (factory) the third leg would have only been engaged when the headlight was on and turning it off would have broken that leg of the charging circuit) The headlight is not now in that loop, so you need to keep it on all the time to be using that 60W of power.

Earl

Hi, I wanted to update, The new stator & R/R work great. I cleaned the grounds. I have one Q, It shows 14.2 V at idle. It goes up to 14.8 at 4,000 rpms & higher rpms , no change. Engine off, batt shows 12.9V -> normal? I don't want to cook a batt with the 14.2 at idle, but it's not bubblin over with a overcharge->yet. The headlight is on when you are running the motor all the time. Now it dosen't "dim a little" at idle like it did before with old R/R. Wired up the R/R 3 yellow to yellow to stator, black to batt ground, red to batt pos. Old red to old R/R taped up & not connected. Dave

[Detman101]

Re: Electronic Q on R/R & stator wiring.

When you get the electrex stator, you will see it has three yellow wires. Your electrex R/R will have 3 yellow, a black and a red. The three yellow wires on the stator connect to the three yellow wires on the R/R. The red wire on the R/R connects to Battery positive. The black wire on the R/R connects to battery negative. Connected this way, there is nothing to be gained by adding a ground between the R/R and the bike's frame.


The now unused red wire in your wiring harness that WAS connected to the old R/R gets taped/capped off and is no longer used.

The above allows all three phases of your stator to always be available to charge the battery. Consequently, always have your headlight on to lessen the requirement of the R/R to heat sink any excess charging current.

Earl

Earl, what happens if you plug in that red wire? I reconnected mine to my wiring harness. Is that a bad thing?

Thanks,
Dm

[focus frenzy]

the red line that went from the regulator to the harness tied into the harness between the main fuse and the ignition switch, so with the bike off but ignition switch on power would flow from the battery through the main fuse to the ignition switch and out to places needed.
with the bike running and charging, power from the regulator would enter the harness after the main fuse and go to the ignition switch and to places needed, extra power for charging the battery would pass back through the main fuse to the battery.
suzuki wired them this way to save on about a foot of wire at best, instead of just running the output from the regulator to the battery terminal.
this aslo serves as protection, if the rectifiers fail with the engine off, the power from the battery will short back to the stator and it has to go through the main fuse wich will blow, running the regulator output dirrectly to battery will require you to put a fuse inline for protection.

locodave what rail road are you a engineer for?
the voltage drop you found between the main fuse and the three system fuses is pretty common, power from the main fuse has to travel on a faily small wire all the way to the ignition switch then back to the three system fuses, and with age voltage drop problems on this small wire are common, several of us have engineered ignition switch bypass relay modification, that has the ignition switch controling a power relay, that directly sends power from the battery to the three fuses eliminating the load on that one main power wire to the ignition switch.
I am out of time and have to go to work now, but when I get home I will post the diagram I have done showing how to wire in the relay.

[Detman101]

Hmmm...so the extra red wire to the wiring harness serves as a failsafe eh? I guess I'll leave it connected then in that light.
The way you described its purpose I dont' see the advantage of capping it.

Dm of mD

[focus frenzy]

here is the diagram for the ignition bypass relay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/leonhogan/wiringdrawing.bmp

I tried to post it here but for some reason BMP is no longer allowed here anymore.