two n00b questions

[Anonymous]

Lerave both mufflers and the 1 and 4 pipes bolted up. The 2 and 3 pipes (center two pipes) cun under the transmission and fit into a slip joint on each side. Loosen the clam on the slip joint, remove the exhaust bolts at the exhaust port on the 2 and 3 cylinders. take a bubber mallet and "whack" the cross piece forward hitting the left then right then left , etc.
The 2 and 3 pipes slide forward for access to the oil drain plug.

Earl

this was going to be my first course of action, but after i unbolted the mufflers, everything seemed solid still. i tried reattaching those, and unbolting @ the little x-member, but still couldn't get it out without seeming like i was forcing things too much. so i dunno.

my next duty is to fix the brake switch and get all the lights to work as they're supposed to. i assume that the switch for the brakelights is near the master cylinder, in the right lever assembly...am i right?

[earlfor]

Well, first off, in your quote of me......... change the word "Lerave" to Leave. I dont know how to "lerave" a muffler, you probably dont either.

Then change "clam" on the slip joint (uhhh nno, we dont want to go there :-) ) to read "clamp on the slip joint.

Lastly, "take your bubber and whack it ......should read take your rubber mallet. I shouldnt have mentioned your bubber, what you do with that is your own business. :-)


Now, in answer to the latest, hopefully without any typing blunders. :-)

When the header pipes on the 2,3 have been clamped for a long time in the slip fitting, it can take some pretty serious determination to get them to slide off.

The brakelight switch for the front brake is in the right lever assembly underneath. When working on that switch, there are some tiny parts and a spring that will pop out and be the devil to find. I do this............
Make sure the cap on the brake fluid is right. Loosen the pinch bold that holds the brake assembly.lever to the handlebar. Rotate the assembly upside down. Now you can take of the little cap and work on the brake light switch with nothing falling out. You will also be able stand up and see what you are doing.

The brake light switch for the rear brake is between the frame and the rear tire just aft of the pivot bolt for the rear foot brake lever. There is a small threaded rod adjuster on the bottom if you need to adjust travel on the switch.

Earl

Lerave both mufflers and the 1 and 4 pipes bolted up. The 2 and 3 pipes (center two pipes) cun under the transmission and fit into a slip joint on each side. Loosen the clam on the slip joint, remove the exhaust bolts at the exhaust port on the 2 and 3 cylinders. take a bubber mallet and "whack" the cross piece forward hitting the left then right then left , etc.
The 2 and 3 pipes slide forward for access to the oil drain plug.

Earl

this was going to be my first course of action, but after i unbolted the mufflers, everything seemed solid still. i tried reattaching those, and unbolting @ the little x-member, but still couldn't get it out without seeming like i was forcing things too much. so i dunno.

my next duty is to fix the brake switch and get all the lights to work as they're supposed to. i assume that the switch for the brakelights is near the master cylinder, in the right lever assembly...am i right?

[terrybird]

(typing with a gauze mitten..) ' what happened there?

[earlfor]

...

[Anonymous]

(typing with a gauze mitten..) ' what happened there?

burned myself-- a girl i have class with was having trouble with her truck starting-- it's an old chevy, the battery was still kicking (dome light, blower working, radio working) and their starters are notorious for not working. i hit it with my keys, then i noticed a bundle of wires sitting against the frame.. being a dumba55 i grabbed the wires to move them and the toastercoil of crap burned my hand.

the good thing was that it started


the bad thing was...well.. i have 12 blisters on my hand