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Clutchless shifting: am i going to kill my tranny?
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 19275
- Toronto, Canada
Originally posted by Simon WatersBertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'
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Anonymous
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 19275
- Toronto, Canada
Originally posted by Simon WatersNo, Ron, I was painted blue and infesting the ancient forests of the mist-bedecked isle! :roll:Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
Originally posted by SLOWPOKEthings are finally getting back to normal aroud here
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Anonymous
related idea but possibly problem?
on my bike i've begun noticing that i can shift up and down if i'm easy on wringing that right ear when i'm ready to do it. i noted it i don't remember the circumstance, but it's only slightly more difficult than with the clutch. i only begin to get some power to the rear when i'm less than 1/2 and more like 1/4 inch (15-5mm) from all the way out on the lever. is this something wrong? it's the way the bike has been since i got it. it only takes minimal movement of the clutch lever to release power for shifting.
if it's needing adjustment, can someoen direct me to some plain english understandable directions on how to do it. so far i ain't been able to get a haynes on my bike. even jcwhitney says the one they have listed don't werk for me (guess it ain't hooked on phonics) anywho. any ideas?
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saaz
Clutces are very good for stopping and starting bikes, having done it with a broken clutch cabe using the strarter motor to get going!
If you do full throttle clutchess shifts I don't think I would want to keep the bike long term......ok for people chnaging bikes all the time.
With care clutchless shifts can be easily made. I do it sometime just to make sure I am riding smoothly, but out of habit use the clutch
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Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 19275
- Toronto, Canada
Originally posted by Simon WatersRon, the forest nymphs got rather "toasty" in Colorado this year! :twisted:Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'
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lecroy
Originally posted by SLOWPOKECAN I DO THE CUTTING WITHOUT TAKING THE ENGINE APART(SPLITTING THE CASES) I MEAN JUST BY DROPPING THE OIL PAN))
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Anonymous
Originally posted by lecroyOriginally posted by SLOWPOKECAN I DO THE CUTTING WITHOUT TAKING THE ENGINE APART(SPLITTING THE CASES) I MEAN JUST BY DROPPING THE OIL PAN))
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lecroy
"After this mod do the owners usually put on engine braces to compensate for any loss of strength"
Good question. The only build up I have ever put in was around the output drive shaft. In my own 83 engines, this has proven to be the weak point in the block. I also try to round out any sharp edges and the cases are held together with a much stronger set of studs. The same is true for the top end. Those tiny things they use from the factory like to really stretch. And it's not good to have the welded crank floating around between the case halfs. Or anything else for that matter.
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saaz
It sounds like the standard engine can take a lot of abuse in dragging etc.
As a road engine they are like a stone axe considering not everyoen has looked after them....
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Anonymous
What I do is hold pressure up with my toe, and blip the throttle. It is actually easier when you are going balls out.
If you miss gears often, it could round off the dogs, but I have mine undercut to help prevent that.
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