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Make sure to consider the inlet-boot o-rings as a cause of your problem.
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I pulled one of the Jets and it appears to be a 110. Does anyone know if this is the stock size? And if so how big should i go for adding pods?Comment
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I pulled the pin that sets the float height and it is spring loaded and is about 3mm so float height is fine. What else could it be?Comment
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Astra625. Let me jump in here. You have no pin that adjust float height. There is a small metal pin about 3/4" long that the float pivots on. Don't remove it. First of all, you should probably buy a shop manual for your bike which explains some of these procedures but the FIRST step in any carb tuning is to get the amount of fuel in the bowl the proper amount. If you have too little, the bike will starve for fuel and exhibit symptoms of running lean. If you have too much, then it will behave as if it were rich and possibly drool gas out the overflow. You must get the the "Service Fuel Level" correct. The float is suspended by pin and has a "tang" which is a small metal patch that contacts a float needle. You adjust the amount of gas in the bowl by bending this tang. To determine what amount of bend is needed, if any, the carburetors MUST be level. You can put the carbs on your bench in a vise or do them on the bike by putting the bike on centerstand and putting a board under your front tire. Once level, connect a gas hose to the drain nipple on your float bowl. Turn the gas on and open the drain screw. I suggest you should hold the clear hose next to a carb body (doesn't matter which) at the line where your bowl gasket lives... between the carb body and bowl. Gas will fill the hose to the level it exists inside the bowl being checked. DO NOT move the hose upwards as this will give a false reading and if there are bubbles in the line, gently tap them out as this will also give a false reading. The gas in the hose should be 1/8" below the gasket line. If it is HIGHER, then bend the tang on your float upwards just a tad and if it is LOWER, bend it down a tad. It doesn't take much to make this adjustment.
Once you have the Service Fuel Level correct, note that there are screws that adjust the opening of the throttle butterflies. These are NOT the mixture screws. Adjust the mixture screws by turning these closed (tighten) till they gently seat and then turn them two turns out. These affect the air/fuel mixture at idle only and don't usually need any tinkering. In any case, put the hose ends of your sync (manometer) tool onto the vacuum ports. Warm your engine and adjust the screws between the carburetors used for adjusting the butterfly opening. Usually, there are arms that join the carbs with springs in them and the screws will sit in these. The bike should be warm and you will essentially adjust these screws so that the mercury in each tube is level. This indicates the butterflies are opened the same and allowing the same amount of vacuum through the carburetor venturis.
At this point, you can adjust the pilot mixture screws. To do this, you let the bike idle and adjust the #1 screw in and out just a tad to maximize the bike's idle. Get the bike idling as fast as it can, then turn the idle back down using your throttle stop idle screw. Repeat for carbs 2, 3 and 4.
That is about all the tuning you will need to do and as I mentioned, it is all laid out in a shop manual (or Haynes /Clymer). Good luck.Comment
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Ok I tore the carbs apart last night to discover what I believe is the source of my problems. The main jets were loose? all but one. The reason they are loose is that the threading was so corroded that when I tried to tighten one all the way it fell apart. So I ordered new jets and they are on the way, hopefully the stock size will work with my new pods form cycle recycle. If not then o well 16 more bucks for new jets?damn it. My question is why the #%#@ do they make these things out of brass? Why not steal or something at least a little stronger?Comment
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You wouls save yourself a ton of stress and agrivation if you purchased a repair manual. You can get them at repair manuals.com for less money than you have already spent on the bike.Comment
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we (or should I say he) has purchased the clymer manual. We are still awaiting its arrival.Comment
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hope this doesn't come across as insulting... i had the same problem with my gs650gl when i first got it and it turned out to be two switched spark plug wires. not to oversimplify, but maybe...
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The jets are brass and cost 3-4$ each. The carb bodies are aluminum and cost $300 each. Steel would destroy the aluminum. Which one had you rather be replacing?
Earl
Originally posted by Astra625Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.Comment
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I can see the logic in that but, i dont understand how steel would damage the carb body. In my case the brittle parts that i feel could benefit from being made out of a stronger alloy are the main jet and the needle jet. The main jet screws into the needle jet. if both were steel i dont see how screwing them together would damage the carb body. Just a thoughtThe jets are brass and cost 3-4$ each. The carb bodies are aluminum and cost $300 each. Steel would destroy the aluminum. Which one had you rather be replacing?
O yeah and i actually got a price on the carb mainbody where i am, cause mine had a chip in it, and it was over $500 8OComment
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I had been thinking about this, unfortunately there is no markings on the cables to be sure of which goes to where. But now that we have the Clymer Manual it will be one of the things that I will be checking for.hope this doesn't come across as insulting... i had the same problem with my gs650gl when i first got it and it turned out to be two switched spark plug wires. not to oversimplify, but maybe...
When this bike was purchased the electrical system was, to put it nicely, a mess. We have cleaned up most of it and now the electrics seem to run smoothly so now that the bike runs, consistantly, we are now trying to get its performance capabilities back.
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GS pulls up next to a Gixxer...
GS looks over at the Gixxer and says "Who's your daddy."
Gixxer peels out leaving the GS in its dust.
GS says "What? I am its daddy!"
bad joke I know I know... but stolen (the good ones are)
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Brass jets can get gunked up and be difficult to remove, but they do not rust or corrode bonding themselves to the aluminum as steel would.
If you had a frozen steel jet that had bonded to the aluminum, you would ream out the aluminm walls of the carbs trying to unscrew the jet.
When installing jets, there is no reason to install them any tighter than you can using only two fingers on the screwdriver. A good "finger tight" is plenty.
Earl
Originally posted by Astra625Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.Comment
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