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Anonymous
Guest
My 80' GS 1000L runs great, but I was wondering if there is an oil additive that anyone uses that they like. Let me know what you use.
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Re: Does anyone use and recommend a particular oil additive
With a motorcycle having a wet clutch, one should be careful of what they put in the oil. STP for example is a BIG! NO NO, as would be anything containing PTFE (such as Slick 50). The best upgrade for oil is probably changing to a good quality synthetic such as Mobil 1. Its more important to change oil frequently so as to always have clean oil in the engine. I use Mobil 1 15w50 and I change it every 1500 miles. I used Castrol 20w50 for many years and it is excellent and about 1/3 the price of Mobil 1. The secret to engine longevity is clean oil.
Earl
With a motorcycle having a wet clutch, one should be careful of what they put in the oil. STP for example is a BIG! NO NO, as would be anything containing PTFE (such as Slick 50). The best upgrade for oil is probably changing to a good quality synthetic such as Mobil 1. Its more important to change oil frequently so as to always have clean oil in the engine. I use Mobil 1 15w50 and I change it every 1500 miles. I used Castrol 20w50 for many years and it is excellent and about 1/3 the price of Mobil 1. The secret to engine longevity is clean oil.
Earl
Dlancer said:
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Anonymous
Guest
I have to agree, stay away from oil additives.. I recently got my 80 gs550, this summer, after it had been sitting for years... I changed the oil immediately, and have since changed it about every 200-250 miles, and the filter everyother, just cause oil is cheap, and the bike loves to have fresh oil.
So, just keep the oil fresh and clean, and topped off and that is the best "treatment" you can give your engine...
So, just keep the oil fresh and clean, and topped off and that is the best "treatment" you can give your engine...
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Anonymous
Guest
i do have to say, however, that because I work in the automotive industry--- one of the things that you could potentially do to cause harm to your bike in one way or another is changing to a synthetic oil on a bike with either a lot of miles (like.. a lot. equivalent of a car with 200,000), or one that's had some neglectful treatment. When you've got a bike with seals that are kept intact by the sludge inside the motor, and suddenly a synthetic lubricant removes those deposits (higher detergency)-- they can cause more harm than good. some synthetic additive technologies can also cause slight seal shrinkage, which accomplishes the same level of problematic behavior
however---- if you know the history of the bike, and have never put a synthetic in it, and are wanting to try one-- i'd recommend it. it'll reduce the wear on the engine a lot, and keep it from furthering to the point that it becomes irreparable.
just my $.02
however---- if you know the history of the bike, and have never put a synthetic in it, and are wanting to try one-- i'd recommend it. it'll reduce the wear on the engine a lot, and keep it from furthering to the point that it becomes irreparable.
just my $.02
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Anonymous
Guest
I can vouch for using conventional 10W-40 motorcycle oil only -- tried synthetic and it accellerated slight seepage around head gasket to point of annoyance. Switched back to conventional 10W-40, and now back to original slow seepage (which I can live with!) Shifting action more precise with conventional oil also! Did not notice any difference in my accelleration with synthetic.
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Anonymous
Guest
that has been my similar experience.. i found that adding a little bit of high mileage oil when you top off can help a bit
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Anonymous
Guest
m0unds said:
Thanks guys. Right now I'am running with Penzoil 10w-40 high mileage oil. It only has 26K on it, but it is 24 years old. I thought the seals wouldn't mind.
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Anonymous
Guest
You have to be careful with synthetic oil on some brands of bikes, my buddy put mobil 1 in his bike and the starter clutch stopped working. Apparently the mobil 1 didn't provide enough friction for the starter clutch mechanism. He confirmed this with his dealer and they said it was a common problem for Yamaha. Also you should only use motorcycle oil in your bike to protect the gears and so that your clutch engages properly.
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Anonymous
Guest
Dlancer said:
definitely not
There was a laboratory oil comparison and analysis posted on the net at one time (I have lost the url) and the conclusion was that many of the motorcycle specific oils are inferior to automotive oils. There is no reason to spend $8-$12 a quart for cycle oil. The biggest difference I noted in the study was the wear life of the oils compared. The percentage of initial lubricating capability that remains after 1500 miles of use in a cycle varies greatly between oils. Almost any brand name oil will retain sufficient lubricating qualities for 1000 miles or so. The synthetics are more slippery than the "dinosaur" type oils, so do a better job. They may be too slippery for some makes of bikes. Clean oil is important. Oil wears out. It may look and feel slick after 3500 miles, but it isnt worth squat for neutralizing combustion acids and lubricating the engine.
Earl
Earl
Two550's said:
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Dink
Guest
Earl it is right here on the the GS Resources, go to the home page and then to the GS Garage.
Do not use oil additives, use good quality oil and change it often, always change filter and oil at the same time.
Dink
Do not use oil additives, use good quality oil and change it often, always change filter and oil at the same time.
Dink
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whodatpat
Guest
Use anything you want EXCEPT Synthetic. Unless you like the look of oil dripping from every seal all over your legs.
Patrick
Patrick
LOL Neither the 1150, nor my 750 leak synthetic oil anyplace. If one has oil leaks, its a clear indication some maintenance is required. There should be no leaks from gaskets and seals regardless of what type of oil is used.
Earl
Earl
whodatpat said:
K
Keith Winter
Guest
Oil, Oil, Oil,
Oil, Oil, Oil,
The main thing you have to remember with oil for our bike's is the term, energy conserving. Most automotive type oil's are this type. They contain metalic compounds that "smear" onto the moving parts. This works ok on car engines that don't have high loads imposed on the babit type bearings and other surfaces in these engines. Most deisel engines do not take energy conserving oils, as they have higher loads on the moving parts. As our bikes use mostly roller bearings, and rev higher than most car engines ever do, you do not really want energy conserving oils in there. Mobil 1 15\50 is the only Mobil oil that I know of that is NOT energy conserving. If you look at the little round emblem on the oil jug you can tell if your oil is or is not the energy conserving type. I have always used synthetic oil in my bikes, and I use Mobil 1 15\50 in my 78 GS1000. I have never had any oil leaking problems, clutch problems or any other problems that can be blamed on the oil. My bike runs quieter with Mobile 1, the clutch is smoother and more positive and on those really hot days I don't worry about idleing to long in traffic as synthetic oil won't loose it's ability to protect my engine when the going get's tough. It does cost more money, but what's your bike worth to you?
Keith
Oil, Oil, Oil,
The main thing you have to remember with oil for our bike's is the term, energy conserving. Most automotive type oil's are this type. They contain metalic compounds that "smear" onto the moving parts. This works ok on car engines that don't have high loads imposed on the babit type bearings and other surfaces in these engines. Most deisel engines do not take energy conserving oils, as they have higher loads on the moving parts. As our bikes use mostly roller bearings, and rev higher than most car engines ever do, you do not really want energy conserving oils in there. Mobil 1 15\50 is the only Mobil oil that I know of that is NOT energy conserving. If you look at the little round emblem on the oil jug you can tell if your oil is or is not the energy conserving type. I have always used synthetic oil in my bikes, and I use Mobil 1 15\50 in my 78 GS1000. I have never had any oil leaking problems, clutch problems or any other problems that can be blamed on the oil. My bike runs quieter with Mobile 1, the clutch is smoother and more positive and on those really hot days I don't worry about idleing to long in traffic as synthetic oil won't loose it's ability to protect my engine when the going get's tough. It does cost more money, but what's your bike worth to you?
Keith
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whodatpat
Guest
Earl,earlfor said:
Trust me when I tell you that the synthetic "hastened" my need to perform maintenence.
Day 1 no leak at 60k. Wanted to do my bike a favor and use the "good stuff" at my oil change.
Day 2 oil all over the engine block and my pants.
Day 3, drain expensive oil and put dyno "high milage" back in.
Now into about day 60 and oil leak is down to a slight weep.
Of course this winter I will have to tear the whole thing down, to deal with the leaks for real, but it is hardly a coincidence that Mobil 1 spuewd within hours of being added. This is a common complaint. It is does not happen 100% of the time. But often enough for it not to be worth the chance in these old bikes in my opinion.
Not LOL. I have a lot of unexpected work ahead of me now
Patrick
Oh, I believe you when you say your bike leaked with synthetic. The point I was trying to make is that if the seals and gaskets are as they should be, the bike is NOT going to leak. Your bike needed maintenance to start with. The synthetic oil only removed the sludge and gum deposits that were contaminating your oil supply and blocking worn seals. I would consider developing a leak after using synthetic a favor. Its an early warning that not all is well. It probably saved you MAJOR work down the line.
Earl
Earl
whodatpat said:Trust me when I tell you that the synthetic "hastened" my need to perform maintenence.
Not LOL. I have a lot of unexpected work ahead of me now
Patrick
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redliner1973
Guest
Earl, you are exactly right. while the PAO's in 'true' synthetic oils are known to shrink seals, manufacturers counter this ( and have been for years) by adding ester-based base oils to the synthetic to 'even it out'. synthetics will clean the sludge off of seals, not because of better detergents, but because of the PAO base itself. BTW, if your interested, there are only a handful of 'true' (PAO or Ester-based) synthetics among brands. Mobile One, Amsoil, Redline, Motul are a few examples. Most other off the shelf synthetics, such as Castrol, Pennzoil, havoline, Quaker state, Valvoline are merely hydrocracked type lll mineral based oils. They are allowed to advertise in the USA as synthetics only by actions of a lawsuit against the SAE by Castrol. Hence if you pick up a bottle of Castrol Syntec, it will say on the back "not for sale outside North America". European/Japanese specs will not authorise labeling type lll hydrocracked oils as '100% full synthetic'.
Thanks for the info Tim. One of the main reasons I use Mobil 1 is for its cleaning abilities.
Earl
quote="propflux01"]Earl, you are exactly right. while the PAO's in 'true' synthetic oils are known to shrink seals, manufacturers counter this ( and have been for years) by adding ester-based base oils to the synthetic to 'even it out'. synthetics will clean the sludge off of seals, not because of better detergents, but because of the PAO base itself. BTW, if your interested, there are only a handful of 'true' (PAO or Ester-based) synthetics among brands. Mobile One, Amsoil, Redline, Motul are a few examples. Most other off the shelf synthetics, such as Castrol, Pennzoil, havoline, Quaker state, Valvoline are merely hydrocracked type lll mineral based oils. They are allowed to advertise in the USA as synthetics only by actions of a lawsuit against the SAE by Castrol. Hence if you pick up a bottle of Castrol Syntec, it will say on the back "not for sale outside North America". European/Japanese specs will not authorise labeling type lll hydrocracked oils as '100% full synthetic'.[/quote]
Earl
quote="propflux01"]Earl, you are exactly right. while the PAO's in 'true' synthetic oils are known to shrink seals, manufacturers counter this ( and have been for years) by adding ester-based base oils to the synthetic to 'even it out'. synthetics will clean the sludge off of seals, not because of better detergents, but because of the PAO base itself. BTW, if your interested, there are only a handful of 'true' (PAO or Ester-based) synthetics among brands. Mobile One, Amsoil, Redline, Motul are a few examples. Most other off the shelf synthetics, such as Castrol, Pennzoil, havoline, Quaker state, Valvoline are merely hydrocracked type lll mineral based oils. They are allowed to advertise in the USA as synthetics only by actions of a lawsuit against the SAE by Castrol. Hence if you pick up a bottle of Castrol Syntec, it will say on the back "not for sale outside North America". European/Japanese specs will not authorise labeling type lll hydrocracked oils as '100% full synthetic'.[/quote]
A
Anonymous
Guest
The explanation I was given for using only motorcycle specific oils was something about the molecules being "linked" to form long "strings" which don't breakdown as quickly as automotive oil and do a much better job protecting between the transmission gear teeth. The motorcycle oil also may have additives which last longer to keep the acids "ph" from working when the bike is in storage not being used.
I have also had "instant" leaks with Mobil 1 in my car.
In my bikes I am using a semi-synthetic motorcycle oil, and so far no leak problems. Obviously if you're not sure about your oil quality the best thing to do is to change it more often.
I have also had "instant" leaks with Mobil 1 in my car.
In my bikes I am using a semi-synthetic motorcycle oil, and so far no leak problems. Obviously if you're not sure about your oil quality the best thing to do is to change it more often.
S
saaz
Guest
Synthetics will generally keep the inside of the engine far cleaner. If the seals are dodgy to start with, they may leak. A bike engine in good condition should not leak due to synthetic oil.
My car had this proble. High mileage. Used synthetic ones, it cleaned it out so much the rear seal started leaking. A few oil changes later with GSt2 20W50, it has gunked up enough again not to leak. Makes you wonder how much other sludge buildup is going on as well..can't be a good thing!
My car had this proble. High mileage. Used synthetic ones, it cleaned it out so much the rear seal started leaking. A few oil changes later with GSt2 20W50, it has gunked up enough again not to leak. Makes you wonder how much other sludge buildup is going on as well..can't be a good thing!