Intake boot screws stuck :(

[Anonymous]

Hello again..

I've got a new problem. I ordered some new intake parts, and I need to remove the boots from the block. The problem is, however, that they're STUCK.. like.. BAD. I'm afraid to put an impact driver on it, because the screws seem to be just metal, and the head is aluminum. Are there any special techniques to free stuck screws in the head like this?


(definitely putting permatex anti-seize on it when they're done...)


Thanks guys,
Chris

[earlfor]

Re: Intake boot screws stuck

The best way is to use an impact driver. Use the kind you strike with a hammer. Absolutely NOT an air impact tool. Take the bit out and place it in the screw you want to remove. Strike the bit with a hammer, cutting a good solid fit into the screw. (only hit the bit once to cut the fit) The with the impact driver (you will likely need to hit the driver with the side of the hammer, space is kind of tight. :-) ) Strike it once HARD. Usually, you will then be able to turn the screws out by hand using the driver as a screwdriver. Dont change to a normal screwdriver for this as the impact bit fits much better and is a lot less prone to strip or skip.

Earl

Hello again..

I've got a new problem. I ordered some new intake parts, and I need to remove the boots from the block. The problem is, however, that they're STUCK.. like.. BAD. I'm afraid to put an impact driver on it, because the screws seem to be just metal, and the head is aluminum. Are there any special techniques to free stuck screws in the head like this?


(definitely putting permatex anti-seize on it when they're done...)


Thanks guys,
Chris

[first timer]

check this post

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=27593&highlight=impact+driver

and you can look at what i said.

-ryan

[Anonymous]

okay, thanks for the ideas. it's dark now, so i'll go try tomorrow with the impact (that's the tool i meant.. i hate air tools ) and if that dosen't work then i'll try some of the stuff in that other post.

Are the allen-head screws available at a hardware store?

[bwringer]

My local Ace Hardware has a pretty good assortment of allen head stainless goodies. They are a bit expensive (60 to 90 cents each or more, depending on size), but it's good quality stuff and definitely convenient. My store doesn't do a great job of watching their inventory, so I have been frustrated a times when they run out of certain sizes.

I've ordered stainless steel hardware from http://macmaster.com and http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com a couple of times, and when you're buying a lot, the prices are much better.

I always get plenty of extras, so I've built up quite a collection in my garage. I replace every fastener with stainless allen heads whenever possible. Phillips head fasteners from my bike get measured for replacement, then immediately go into the trash -- they are worse than worthless.

[Wingnut]

Here is a helpfull hint that we use all the time at work, trying to get screws out of access panels on aircraft. Put a little bit of valve grinding compound on the screw head and on the bit. It makes a huge difference on the amount of grip you get before the bit slips.

Step two if that fails, drill!

[Planecrazy]

I'm a fan of square head screws, which I believe are even stronger than allen heads (although both blow phillips heads away).

Here's another option for removal that has served me very well. Take a cordless drill with a clutch and set the clutch to the lowest setting. Firmly apply pressure to the screw head and then use the clutch settings like a low power impact gun, slowly increasing the clutch settings until the screw "cooperates."

It is VERY important to maintain a firm pressure on the screw so that it doesn't strip, but I've found that after fighting with screws that wouldn't budge any other conventional way that this trick often gets the job done. It also prevents the possiblity of breaking an entire aluminum assembly with an impact driver by hitting it too hard with the hammer.

Wingnut's "valve grinding compound" tip kicks ass too, and I would definitely use that trick in combination with this one to prevent slippage!

Good Luck!
Steve 8)

[Anonymous]

so far i have tried all of the following:

1. Screwdriver
2. 1/4" ratchet with socket then bit
3. 3/8 ratchet with adaptor then socket then bit
4. impact screwdriver

i managed (out of 8 screws) to remove: one.

i'll have to charge my cordless drill, as it has a clutch...

how do you go about drilling out the screw? i'm looking at it, and i'm not sure how to go about it without hurting anything.

[Planecrazy]

By the way, two other things to try ... first, if you haven't already then try spraying PB Blaster or Sea Foam penetrant onto the threads ... then walk away and come back tomorrow.

Second thing ... when trying the impact trick (either driver or drill) try setting it to "tighten" as well as loosen, because the pressure in both directions will often help to break the chemical bond that now exists between the two metals.

Patience is the single best strategy to apply in order to prevent breaking anything. If you get frustrated, spray some more lubricant on the threads and go get a frosty beverage ... then try again.

Steve 8)

[Anonymous]

yeah, i sprayed the pb on them yesterday and today.. never tried seafoam, i might have to look into that one.

Addenum: will the PB damage the rubber of the boots? because they're still pliable, and i don't want to damage them if i don't have to


that's been my trick ever since i almost killed my thermostat housing on my car

i'll keep at it.

[Anonymous]

If they absolutely won't come out, or the Phillips part wallows out, the best thing IMHO is to get a Dremel grinder with a small abrasive cutoff wheel on it. Then patiently cut/grind the screw head off.

The key is patience. It took maybe 30 to 45 minutes, maybe more by the time I got the Dremel together. But once the screw head was off and the boot came off, the screw itself unscrewed easily. (There's a good 1/4 inch of thread to get Vise-Grips on) And the important thing for me was that the boot and the cylinder head was both in perfect shape. No damaged threads or other problems.

I realize this is slow, but it worked well. Other alternatives may have seemed quicker--but with a high risk of further screwing something up. For this project, I preferred the certainty (of slowly grinding) over the risk of creating more problems. Even if you have to grind 7 heads off, it works well.

[Anonymous]

that sounds like a good thing to do. i was contemplating doing it, but i was afraid it might not go well. i'll try it if the PB tonight doesn't do it...as i think about it, i think it might make getting my other side cover off.. (left hand side) one of the screws is totally stuck.


as another question- what size is the grip over the throttle? is it a 1"? i'm trying to replace the worn-out stock grips, and i can't figure out if most grip sets come in one size, or one of each 7/8 and 1"

grazie

[Clone]

When I fixed my carb this summer i replaced all the philips screws with either allen head bolts or hex head bolts and put a little anti sieze on them. I actually couldn't fit my driver in there and hit it with a hammer, so i used vise grips on the head.

[Anonymous]

[quote="BillC"]If they absolutely won't come out, or the Phillips part wallows out, the best thing IMHO is to get a Dremel grinder with a small abrasive cutoff wheel on it. Then patiently cut/grind the screw head off.

My approach is similar, but I grind a single slot into the screw. From there I use a regular (fat) slotted screwdriver -- Craftsman, with a square shank, so I can put an adjustable wrench on the screwdriver.

This hasn't failed me yet. Keep in mind that you're generating gobs of ground metal which is flying all around, so PLUG THE INTAKES FIRST!

[edbot]

Thanks for this thread. I too was having trouble getting boot screws out. Could only get a couple of the outside ones off with an impact wrench before runing out of room to swing a hammer. Tried the cordless drill with a clutch trick and it worked like a charm!