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The fruits of poor planning and the keyless motorcycle.

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    The fruits of poor planning and the keyless motorcycle.

    I lost my keys with the only key to my 1983 GS550E, the one I've been having so much fun with now that it's running well.

    I'm trying to figure out my options. I could buy a complete set of locks and keys from a salvage yard, but fear they will smell my desparation and charge accordingly, and I'll have no guarantee that they work, plus then I have to figure out installation and removal of the now locked gas cap. That's the last resort.

    I've looked at all of the locks for a key-code and if there ever was one there it's not there now.

    If I wrote Suzuki a letter with proof of ownership and my VIN, would they have access to a key-code?

    If I removed the helmet lock and took a key-blank to a locksmith could they fabricate a key that would work in that lock without changing the tumblers? (I don't know anything about key smithing if you can't tell.)

    Anyway, thanks for any help, and yes I know it was stupid not to have a spare key made when I could have.

    #2
    Doh! Shoulda searched more closely...

    The good news is that by removing the helmet lock and carefully examining the thing I found in itty bitty stamped numbers the numbers "154" which I take to be my key-code. For others who find themselves with lost keys, none of my locks have the number on the face of the lock, and the numbers are irregularly stamped 2mm high, like somebody stamping it with individual numbered stamps. Mine was located on the back of the bracket that holds the helmet lock to the bike.

    Somebody else suggested that the following blanks fit these locks:

    Curtis SU7
    Cole Y 107

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      #3
      My 850 has the key code on both the gas cap and the seat lock. look for a 3 dig number where the key goes in. Otherwise take the ign off and take it to a locksmith THEY should have a key blank. Sometimes the seat lock does not use all of the tumblers Thats why i sugest using the ign lock

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        #4
        I just went through the same thing on a 81 650 and the number was found on the bottom of the ignition switch after some detailed cleaning. Couldn't find the number anywhere else. He used the number and made a perfect key for it.

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          #5
          Mine was under the gas cap. An honorable locksmith should pick it for less than 20$ more likely $10.

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            #6
            Too late for Citizen, but anybody else:
            Take a look at your key, if its the original Suzuki key it should have the 3 digit code on it. THis is the same key code that others are talking about trying to find on the ignition switch or elsewhere but is somewhat difficult to do. Anyway, while looking at you key, if it has the 3 digit number: write it down somewhere, like in owners manaul or in service manaul or on your title or on the wall in the garage har har. Dealer can order a replacement key with this key code.

            Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
            GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


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              #7
              I had the same problem with 2 bikes... one a kawasaki KZ550LTD and the other a GS 650GL

              remove the ignition (not hard at all) and examine the body for a 3 digit number. This will be stamped in (not raised). Then locate the key blank for your bike. Take it to a locksmith and tell them this key needs to be cut using this code off of a HPC Card... the card number is CMC 70 I believe for your bike.

              A cheaper blank that should work is the Ilco X87.

              Cost me about $20 to get 2 keys cut. $5 for the blanks and $15 for the cut.

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                #8
                There was a guy on Ebay selling the keys about a year ago, $20 for two keys, you just had to have the key code.

                Note: These keys had the Suzuki logo on them. They worked immediately on the helmet lock and on the gas cap. Yet they wouldn't turn the ignition switch. After careful comparison, I realized the new keys were not going fully into the ignition switch, the upper part of the key (where your fingers are) was bottoming out first against the lock cylinder. I had to grind this back about 1/8 inch so the key would go in all the way.

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