Clutch and Clutch cable question.

[Detman101]

Good Morning,

I recently lubed my clutch cable and after starting the bike and warming it up in neutral...it stalled when dropping it into first gear holding in the clutch.
I figured that the cable loosened up when I lubed it or something so I tightened up the cable at the handlebar first. That didn't tighten it enough to let the clutch stay disengaged in first gear with the lever pulled in.
So I screwed the adjuster out at the engine case and it fixed the problem.

Unfortunately the side effect has been that the clutch now slips in gear if I try to take off while rolling already. I can be in 3rd gear on the highway and go to take off and the bike just spins up until I let off the throttle and go at it slowly. Needless to say, this is not good for metro-maryland traffic. The bike also still seems to stall in the morning when I start it up and drop it into first gear. The bike is being left on the sidestand overnight and with the colder temperatures could the oil not be covering the clutch plates? I don't know...it's weird. How can it be slipping at high speed but stalling/sticking/catching when I drop it into first gear with the lever pulled in?

Would the GSR agree and recommend that I:
1. Give the bike a small readjustment at the engine case adjuster?
2. Try to find some middle ground between the engine case adjuster and the handlebar adjuster?
3. New clutch plates, cable and springs?

Thank you.

[Jethro]

I imagine that your clutch fibers and/or plates are worn. Check them before going too nuts on the cable adjustments.

[Hap Call]

This is one of the few times I will disagree with Jethro. I suggest finding that "middle" spot on the adjusters on both the clutch lever and the case, then doing some fine-tuning. The reasoning behind this is that 1.) It was not a problem before the clutch cable maintenance, and 2.) It doesn't cost anything to do.

If you can't get the clutch to work properly after that, then you have two options. The first is to replace then clutch plates. The second is to go with either new or heavy-duty clutch springs if the originals are getting weak. If the plates are worn, the heavy-duty clutch springs will probably make things work for a little while but are not a permanent solution.

If you do have to go into the clutch, also inspect the bolts that hold in the clutch springs...these get weak from fatigue over time.

Hap

[Detman101]

Awesome, Thanks Hap. I will replace the clutch springs since I already bought a set of EBC springs from Dennis Kirk. I will also check the bolts holding the springs in at that time. You check the thickness of the clutch plates with calipers right? I'll bring my electronic ones along as well to check the plates out. After all of that is set I will lube and re-adjust that bloody clutch cable once again. Thanks again.
This is the weirdest thing to happen to the bike lately.

Dm of mD

This is one of the few times I will disagree with Jethro. I suggest finding that "middle" spot on the adjusters on both the clutch lever and the case, then doing some fine-tuning. The reasoning behind this is that 1.) It was not a problem before the clutch cable maintenance, and 2.) It doesn't cost anything to do.

If you can't get the clutch to work properly after that, then you have two options. The first is to replace then clutch plates. The second is to go with either new or heavy-duty clutch springs if the originals are getting weak. If the plates are worn, the heavy-duty clutch springs will probably make things work for a little while but are not a permanent solution.

If you do have to go into the clutch, also inspect the bolts that hold in the clutch springs...these get weak from fatigue over time.

Hap

[redliner1973]

I do not feel your problem is clutch-plate related, but moreso on the adjustment of the cable itself. It is supposed to be initially adjusted on the lower cased bolt part of the cable, not at the lever. Once the cable has the proper adjustment (freeplay) at the Lower part, then it is adjusted at the lever, for the freeplay of 2-3 mm. If you try to adjust it only at the lever, it will do what you are describing. If you have the factory manual, it will show this. If you do not have one PM me and I will scan the pages for you.

[Detman101]

I do not feel your problem is clutch-plate related, but moreso on the adjustment of the cable itself. It is supposed to be initially adjusted on the lower cased bolt part of the cable, not at the lever. Once the cable has the proper adjustment (freeplay) at the Lower part, then it is adjusted at the lever, for the freeplay of 2-3 mm. If you try to adjust it only at the lever, it will do what you are describing. If you have the factory manual, it will show this. If you do not have one PM me and I will scan the pages for you.

Oh crap! That is exactly what I did!! I adjusted it at the lever first instead of at the case. Well, I guess I'll fiddle with it tomorrow before bible study and see if I can get it right. Thank you! I'll still change the clutch out since I already bid on a set of clutch plates on ebay. :roll:

Thanks dude, you just helped save my day.


Dm of mD

[SqDancerLynn1]

ANY time you replace the clutch plates REPLACE the bolts

[Poot]

I do not feel your problem is clutch-plate related, but moreso on the adjustment of the cable itself. It is supposed to be initially adjusted on the lower cased bolt part of the cable, not at the lever. Once the cable has the proper adjustment (freeplay) at the Lower part, then it is adjusted at the lever, for the freeplay of 2-3 mm. If you try to adjust it only at the lever, it will do what you are describing. If you have the factory manual, it will show this. If you do not have one PM me and I will scan the pages for you.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
important! but you might as well install the springs if you have them?

[Detman101]

Oh trust me, I will be installing everything new.
Anyone have specs on what those bolts are that I need to replace?
I can't find any specs in the clymers manual for replacements.